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Removing my 12 bolt to take it to a shop for ring/pinion set up, ???

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am going to change my 3.73 gears to 4.10 so my motor will be a little happier in .64 overdrive mode (shoulda got .82 with my cam...). If I had a pinion depth tool, press, yoke holder, etc, I would try to do it myself, but I don't have the time or patience.

I am going to remove it from the car and just take it in cuz I don't want to leave my car. And this way, I won't take the cover, so they won't be able to hide the pattern they end up with. Looking at the job, I think I need to:

1. Remove cover and drain the fluid.
2. Remove diff pin and remove the axles.
3. Remove the brake plates. Can I keep the brake lines attached and support the plates? I am just not excited about bleeding the system again after all the problems I had when I did the manual front disc conversion.
4. To make it easier to man-handle, should I remove the differential case? I can do that, I installed it. Plus, then I can install the ring.
5. Remove the drive shaft.
6. Remove the upper and lower control arm bolts. I'm very practiced at that after my UMI hassles.
7. all this assumes proper blocking under the axle and stuff, not just having it thunk on the ground.

Any other things to think about? The brake situation is my main concern.
 
#3 ·
My personnel opinion I would not remove the backing plates because to keep from bleeding the brakes you would have to remove the hard lines with them and unless you got 6 friends helping you there would be no way to keep from bending and kinking the hard lines. Then you would have to change the hard lines and bleed the brakes anyway. Just take the rubber line loose and you don't even need to remove the axles. If he's doing the rebuild I'd let him remove and replace the carrier.
 
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#4 ·
Besides, the brake cylinder is on the outside of the backing plates and you'd have to disconnect the brake line to get the backing plates off anyway.

Just take the brake line off at the frame end of the rubber hose and cap off the rubber hose (still attached to the axle) and the line fitting at the frame (otherwise a lot of fluid will leak out until you reinstall the axle).
 
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#5 ·
I might would drain it, but as far as removing the axles & brake backing plates, No! If I was the one responsible for installing the gears, I would want the axles and all. As far as bleeding it, that shouldn't be a problem if you have a dual resovoir master cylinder, you won't be getting any air into the front brake system. I'm not sure what you mean about removing the differential case, that is part of the rearend. You need to keep the rearend as complete as possible when you carry it to a professional. If you think that you need to leave the cover off to check thier work, then you are taking it to the wrong professional. JMO
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
How do you know who to trust locally, I'm not in SoCal... The guy I bought the car from 10 years ago told me that a local guru rebuilt the rear end fresh with top dollar, everything like new perfect set up. My brother, who works with the original owner, confirmed that it was indeed redone, he saw it picked up and delivered. My bro knew the guru. So after having the car for a few months, I notice that the axle seals are leaking. I tear it down and find that the axle races are scored and gauled, and the guru installed cheater bearings. I replaced all that. A few years later when I installed my posi, I dialed the original open carrier set up to make sure I ended up with something close. The "perfect" rebuild backlash on the original set up was huge, and the pattern was terrible.

That's why I would drop it off without the cover, I want to see the results. If it wasn't for the trial and error with the pinion depth, and the need for a press for the bearing, I would try this myself.

I haven't dipped into the rear brakes for a while, as I was recalling from 10 years ago, there are 4 bolts that hold the plates on, and all the guts are attached to the outer side. I thought it would be easy to just take them off and tie them up. I guess not...
 
#7 ·
Maybe call a few reputable general repair shops in your area, and see who they use and who they recommend. Try calling some transmission shops, if they don't work on rearends, than they know who is the best in town that does. You can also ask them to leave the cover off before you pick it up so you can see the pattern, and also make sure that they show you your old parts. I own a transmission shop, and we always save the parts, in case the customer wants to see them, although, they hardly ever do want to see them. I'm sure with a little time on the phone, you will find someone that you can trust.
 
#8 ·
Call Jegs and get a rear set-up kit, about $100.00 last time I got one, comes w/dail indicator and a shim kit, they also sell the richmond gear cd that will show you what to do,most places will charge about $200.00 to do this. get ya a tv and set at the back of you car. lay on a creeper, and do it. this is a very simple job, you can do it your self get the cd, first and check it out, or contact richmond gear company, they might give it to you, good luck.
 
#11 ·
I just took mine out a couple of weeks ago for the second time to switch from 4.56 to 3.73 gears. Dave (on this forum from NW) does rears so I took it up to him to install the gears. I just unhooked the brake lines from the backing plate and bleed the brakes when I was done. I bought speed bleeders, they replace the bleed fitting on the brakes with a one way valve that all you do is install then back off 1/4-1/2 turn and install a small tube into a container and pump your brakes,fill res again,pump brakes about 5 times and you are done and move on to the next one. Best thing I have found to bleed brakes by myself:thumbsup: Plus they only cost 11 bucks a set at Napa..
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
mikiego1951 said:
Call Jegs and get a rear set-up kit, about $100.00 last time I got one, comes w/dail indicator and a shim kit, they also sell the richmond gear cd that will show you what to do,most places will charge about $200.00 to do this. get ya a tv and set at the back of you car. lay on a creeper, and do it. this is a very simple job, you can do it your self get the cd, first and check it out, or contact richmond gear company, they might give it to you, good luck.
Click to expand...
I found a link to the March 2007 Chevy Punch that had a pretty good instruction set. The pinion is the kicker, determining the right shim and getting the primary bearing pressed on. It looks like life is complicated if you miss. If I had that right, shimming the pumpkin side to side to get .008" lash is easy, I did that when I set up my Eaton posi. But then again, I have always questioned if I got it right, even though it is quiet. :clonk: With my new Pypes Violator muffs, I would be able to hear any whine now.

I don't feel particularly inept, I dialed my scattershield to .003 with offset dowels, so I can do stuff like that. I am just a little freaked.
 
#13 ·
You need a press to get the bearing off of the pinion gear to change the shims,, then when you install the crush sleeve you need to be careful as its really hard to turn the nut to crush it then you want to make sure you dont make it too tight. I was there when Dave installed my gears and helped. Just do some research and take your time getting a pattern.
 
#14 ·
Rich-L79 said:
Besides, the brake cylinder is on the outside of the backing plates and you'd have to disconnect the brake line to get the backing plates off anyway.

Just take the brake line off at the frame end of the rubber hose and cap off the rubber hose (still attached to the axle) and the line fitting at the frame (otherwise a lot of fluid will leak out until you reinstall the axle).
Click to expand...
I would do it like Rich says above....Just unhook the rubber hose and remove the complete rear end. I've never found bleeding brakes that big an issue........
 
#15 ·
If I was the one building this rear end I would want all of the parts. When I build one I ask the owner if they want me to fill it with oil or not. If they don't then they are free to remove the cover when they get home and check my work. I always leave the marking compound on the gears so that they can see what it looks like, although many times they don't even know what they are looking at. I will not let a rear end leave my shop unless it is sealed so that dust and dirt can't get into it. The axles and brakes need to be there so that the cross shaft retaining bolt can be installed with loktite and won't have to be removed again. Just tell the guy to leave the cover loose except for a few bolts, or ask him to see it before you leave his shop. Give him a chance to do it right, then ask questions when you pick it up.
 
#16 ·
If you are going to have someone do it, you might as well leave it in the car. You can always pull the cover later and check the pattern. I would at least ask if you would save any money by just carrying in the housing.

That said, I have done exactly what you suggest a dozen or so times, since I have several axles with different gears for my toy.

I simply remove the brake backing plates leaving the flex line and hard lines attached, hung on coat hangers. That also means you dont need to unhook the ebrake stuff either.

I would put the cover back on and duct tape the ends, so it does not drip all over the place.

I would not remove the diff, since part of the setup is getting the correct side shims for the gears and the bearing preload.
 
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