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dioismyhero

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i'm in the process of building a pro-touring/prostreet 72 chevelle, just thought i'd share my combo, looking forward to seeing what it runs!
what are your thoughts?

505 big block

.100 over 454
Zero Decked block
line bored and line honed
4.250 stroke crank
6.385 h beam rods
forged kieth black pistons .210 dome # kb789.100
balanced rotating assembly
188 casting rectangle heads
2.19 1.88 ferra stainless valves
325 intake runners
milled to 116cc
rpm endurashine intake
950 quick fuel mechanical secondary
.640/.650 solid roller 264/272@50 304/318 adv duration 112 lobe sep
1.7 roller rockers
2 inch to 3.5 hooker ceramicoat headers

3800 stall
built turbo350
12 bolt rear welded tubes
rear disc brakes
4.10 gear
boxed lowers
adjustable uppers

28 tall tires 275.50.17 torq thrust 2's and the list goes on!




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The paint looks great, and there sure are some very nice parts you're puting into that car. :thumbsup: Looks nice.It looks like you've put a lot of time and attention to detail. I cannot say that I've ever seen ladder bars quite like those with the curved arms on them. Who makes them like that? Those look like some skinny rear wheels and tires for a hefty big block car. Weren't you interested in using some bigger meats back there with some different backspacing on the wheels?

Please don't take offense to my questions, I'm merely showing a sincere interest in your project, as well as your choices for it. ;) I'm also wondering about something else too.... it sounds to me by what you've described in the first line of your post that this car will be driven quite a bit on the street (right?)...

I really like your cam duration choice, but I'm just curious as to why you chose domed pistons for a street car(???). I'm guessing that those pistons with the cylinder head chambers that you have will bring the static compression ratio high enough to require race gas. Correct me if I'm wrong about that. But if I am correct, why wouldn't you want to choose a milder static compression ratio, so that pump gas can be used? One more thing, and this may help you out....those ceramic coated Hooker headers come with a very poorly applied ceramic coating on them, and it burns off after the first few start-ups. This happened to me with those headers as well as some other people on this board as well. So if I were you, I'd save your money and buy them just painted, and have them bead blasted to remove the paint, and send them out to get some good quality ceramic coating on them before you install them. If you already bought them ceramic coated, then you should bead blast the coating off and then send them out to be re-coated. You should also test fit them first in case there are any places that they don't fit right, and you have to dimple them with a ball peen hammer. That way you can do that before you have them ceramic coated.
 
same as Billy: what's the thinking on those big dome pistons?

Rest of it looks very nice. I haven't seen those angled ladder bars before either. At least, not on a Chevelle.
 
Very Cool! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
Very nice job so far.
 
Brain Sweet ride by the way. Should have a ton of torque with that much compression, intake and carb, and camshaft choice. Hope you have a healthy rear tires and fuel fund. lol Or a sponsor that supplies tires and fuel. : )
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
The paint looks great, and there sure are some very nice parts you're puting into that car. :thumbsup: Looks nice.It looks like you've put a lot of time and attention to detail. I cannot say that I've ever seen ladder bars quite like those with the curved arms on them. Who makes them like that? Those look like some skinny rear wheels and tires for a hefty big block car. Weren't you interested in using some bigger meats back there with some different backspacing on the wheels?

Please don't take offense to my questions, I'm merely showing a sincere interest in your project, as well as your choices for it. ;) I'm also wondering about something else too.... it sounds to me by what you've described in the first line of your post that this car will be driven quite a bit on the street (right?)...

I really like your cam duration choice, but I'm just curious as to why you chose domed pistons for a street car(???). I'm guessing that those pistons with the cylinder head chambers that you have will bring the static compression ratio high enough to require race gas. Correct me if I'm wrong about that. But if I am correct, why wouldn't you want to choose a milder static compression ratio, so that pump gas can be used? One more thing, and this may help you out....those ceramic coated Hooker headers come with a very poorly applied ceramic coating on them, and it burns off after the first few start-ups. This happened to me with those headers as well as some other people on this board as well. So if I were you, I'd save your money and buy them just painted, and have them bead blasted to remove the paint, and send them out to get some good quality ceramic coating on them before you install them. If you already bought them ceramic coated, then you should bead blast the coating off and then send them out to be re-coated. You should also test fit them first in case there are any places that they don't fit right, and you have to dimple them with a ball peen hammer. That way you can do that before you have them ceramic coated.
th ladder bars i bought off a lady on ebay that sold an olds 442 and bought it back and it had those on there and she didnt like them, i am pretty sure they are competition engineering

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/competition-engineering/ladder-bars/142890-2106.html

those rear wheels are just for cruising 9.5 wide, i am looking at buying a set of wheels to run some m/t et radials or et streets probably a 10 with a 28 tall slick if i can find out what exactly would fit and look good at the same time,

i will drive the car on the street but not everyday, i live 2 miles from work and live in town so there wont be tons of miles put on it so im not worried about the solid roller camshaft being "too much" for the street

my copression with my piston/head combo is will be right around 10.7 or so.. which is 93 pump gas friendly, i know its cutting it close but working in a speed shop i see it being done all the time, i also sale race gas,there is a gas station that sales 104 octane in the town next to us and if worst comes to worst you can also buy 100LL at the airport and run an aditive, so driving it on the street wont be a problem!

and finally i got faith in my hooker headers, i have another set of headers to "break in" my engine which if you read the instructions that is what your supposed to do on a new engine..

thanks for your intrest and your always welcome to ask anything you'd like!
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Brain Sweet ride by the way. Should have a ton of torque with that much compression, intake and carb, and camshaft choice. Hope you have a healthy rear tires and fuel fund. lol Or a sponsor that supplies tires and fuel. : )
thanks alot! i've been trying my hardest to get this thing together.. i had the exact same engine built except it was .60 over which is a 496 i was going to stick in the car.. all the parts were eaxclty same brand and everything, well i ended up letting go of it to a good friend of mine (who is also on this forum RWDUNN) and he stuck the gm aluminum heads on it and a little smaller roller cam than i bought, 950hp and air gap intake.. gave me a ride in it and it blew me away! so i'm hooked! his runs good and has AMAZING street manners so i'm pretty excited!

btw i looked at your chevelle on cardomain and its pretty sweet too!
 
Brian, thanks for the details. I agree...10.7:1 shouldn't be any problem at all, and I didn't question the solid roller being used for a street car. That's what I have as well. FWIW, I used a 5.5" backspacing on my 70 Chevelle, and the rear tire sidewalls are about an inch away from the frame rails. They're P315 radial tires on 10" wide rims. I don't think I'll have a problem with them, but if I do, then I can go with P295 radials which are about one inch narrower and use the same width rims, and I'll definitely be ok. So a 5.5" backspacing seems to be the most that you can use on these cars without mini-tubs or tubs.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Brian, thanks for the details. I agree...10.7:1 shouldn't be any problem at all, and I didn't question the solid roller being used for a street car. That's what I have as well. FWIW, I used a 5.5" backspacing on my 70 Chevelle, and the rear tire sidewalls are about an inch away from the frame rails. They're P315 radial tires on 10" wide rims. I don't think I'll have a problem with them, but if I do, then I can go with P295 radials which are about one inch narrower and use the same width rims, and I'll definitely be ok. So a 5.5" backspacing seems to be the most that you can use on these cars without mini-tubs or tubs.
haha i mentioned the solid roller just so people would know that its not as bad as everyone says it is! i try to break down all my forum replies so that people just starting to learn on these projects can understand easier without feeling left out! if it wasnt for this website and a few others i'd have been lost! so if you notice i go in great detail thats why! :beers:
 
I noticed the bolt on ladder bars say they are not for use with E.T. quicker than 12.99. Your car will have the power to be a lot quicker than than 12.99. The ladder bar setup also makes a car ride pretty harsh on the street. Car looks great and you will have a lot of fun with it.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I noticed the bolt on ladder bars say they are not for use with E.T. quicker than 12.99. Your car will have the power to be a lot quicker than than 12.99. The ladder bar setup also makes a car ride pretty harsh on the street. Car looks great and you will have a lot of fun with it.
yeah i noticed that too.. and i dont think it could ride any worse than my damn dodge dart!!!!
 
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