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do you really even need an intercooler? depending on how you build it and what fuel, you can get away without an intercooler? is this right? I would like to know more on when an intercooler is needed.

I have 275s on my nova right now. dont think 315s will fit without some mods.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Congrats on your first steps to some excellent performance potential and fun street cruising :D
thanks...id like to think im ahead in the game being that i just turned 23 today.... im buying myself some bogarts for the car haha... ive been into this for about 2 years now with some time drawbacks being maintaining deans list in college and working low paying part time jobs.. just graduated college so looking to get some full time work and get a nice money flow coming in....

ill keep the thread updated when i get some more done...
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
the procharger intercooler on my car required much cutting and mods on the rad-support to make it fit between the grill and rad-support.
yea i believe it...this one will be to rough of a fit so im going to try to see if i can cardboard mock up the size of them ebay intercoolers or just have a custom one made from my mock up...

theres a nice yellow chevelle in the central nj area that has a procharged and intercooled 71 or 72 cant remember saw it at englishtowns raceway parks car show
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
do you really even need an intercooler? depending on how you build it and what fuel, you can get away without an intercooler? is this right? I would like to know more on when an intercooler is needed.

I have 275s on my nova right now. dont think 315s will fit without some mods.

you dont need an intercooler if you plan on running like under 4 lbs of boost maybe but it would be pointless, turbos get really hot from the exhaust heat so intercoolers are always a benefit.... i plan to crank this bad boy out as much as 14-22 lbs depending on what my tune will let me go on pump piss or c16...

ill talk to my friend tomorow bout his nova... but other then massaging the inner wheel wells hes got a 315 in there..
 
thanks...

im interested in seeing the caddy 502 in your 69... any pictures? a person around by me has one of those motors all done up in a tubbed 85 monte carlo... goes half decent for what it is..
Here are a few pictures.....It's a tight squeeze. Turbo is a little ways off for me (don't have much money). I'll just spray the snot out of it for now. It's come a little ways since then, but nothing worth taking pictures of yet.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229558
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Discussion starter · #28 ·
update...took another 150 lbs outa the car

projects on hold for now.. ran outa money until local swap meet spot at end of the month at englishtown...(anyone here plan on going stop by my spot for a burger or dog and say hello)

talked for a few hours today with one of my buddies who done a bbc with 106mm turbo in a fox body mustang notchback... we are trying to contemplate if putting my turbo in the trunk of my chevelle would be a possibility... pros would be using long tubes on motor allready, exhaust dump allready near rear, in car water intercooler setup in route, cons could be lag if the turbo exhaust housing isnt rite...

ill take some more pics tomorow....
 
talked for a few hours today with one of my buddies who done a bbc with 106mm turbo in a fox body mustang notchback... we are trying to contemplate if putting my turbo in the trunk of my chevelle would be a possibility... pros would be using long tubes on motor allready, exhaust dump allready near rear, in car water intercooler setup in route, cons could be lag if the turbo exhaust housing isnt rite...
If the turbo will spool quick enough back there, I say go for it! I always wanted to try it just because I could. I think it was Mike Murillo who did twins in the trunk of his mustang and that thing was flyin'!!
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
i seemed to run into a problem with the door crash bars today.... i drilled out the tack welds on the one side... and managed to get it to free up... started to cut the beam in half... this is 6 hours progress into one door.... alot harder to do then i thought....

anyone cut the inner do skelton out of the door... if so what did you use to mount the window crank, doorhandle, armrest,and lock mechanism to?

also the metal roof support .. anyone take that out yet? looks easy butt so didd the dcb;s
 
Since you're close enough to deal directly might wanna look up Keith Mease. http://www.mpefab.com/profile.htm

A google of his name will supply all kinds of interesting information. BUT!! guy is mad talented with fabricating turbo stuff.
 
i seemed to run into a problem with the door crash bars today.... i drilled out the tack welds on the one side... and managed to get it to free up... started to cut the beam in half... this is 6 hours progress into one door.... alot harder to do then i thought....

anyone cut the inner do skelton out of the door... if so what did you use to mount the window crank, doorhandle, armrest,and lock mechanism to?

also the metal roof support .. anyone take that out yet? looks easy butt so didd the dcb;s
Those crash beams are a real bitch, aint they? There's no easy way getting them out. You can press on the way you're doing them now, it's slow and time consuming but when you're done, you're done, or cut the outer skin off to get at them and reskin the door with crappy fitting door skins (not recommended unless the skins are shot and need replacement anyway), or as you mentioned earlier, cut the inner frame out, but I would weld the frame back in after I was done. I've never done the inner frame removal method but that might be just the ticket. As for the inner roof support, unless you have one bad ass roll cage, I'd leave that alone. The roof carries a lot of load and weakening it might cause you some serious body damage.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Those crash beams are a real bitch, aint they? There's no easy way getting them out. You can press on the way you're doing them now, it's slow and time consuming but when you're done, you're done, or cut the outer skin off to get at them and reskin the door with crappy fitting door skins (not recommended unless the skins are shot and need replacement anyway), or as you mentioned earlier, cut the inner frame out, but I would weld the frame back in after I was done. I've never done the inner frame removal method but that might be just the ticket. As for the inner roof support, unless you have one bad ass roll cage, I'd leave that alone. The roof carries a lot of load and weakening it might cause you some serious body damage.

im into the door crash bars for about 10 solid hours already between maping out where i can cut... trial and error cuts... prying... door panels off... etc etc... im going with the drill out the pinch welds... and when i got them apart on the one end prying it looked like metal stalamites forming lol... i got the one side free and the inner skin mostly out where i can.... some pics in the next post....

as far as the roof support.... i got a 6 point bar in the car now and the car is by no means a show car.. its a get down to business race car that has door dings, paint chips, small dents.. etc etc...

so what do ya think??????... i plan on taking it out since i dont plan on sitting on the roof of the car....
 
yikes!! that's a pretty hefy size turbo, what size is it and what kind of motor it that thing going on?

Looking at your door, if you could gently remove the door seal and not damage it (or trash it and buy new ones) and zizz off the inner frame underneath the seal (just don't get into the holes for the seal) then weld it back in after you get the crash beam out. Then a little grinding of the weld, maybe a little filler work over the seam, paint, replace the seal and nobody would be the wiser.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
yikes!! that's a pretty hefy size turbo, what size is it and what kind of motor it that thing going on?

Looking at your door, if you could gently remove the door seal and not damage it (or trash it and buy new ones) and zizz off the inner frame underneath the seal (just don't get into the holes for the seal) then weld it back in after you get the crash beam out. Then a little grinding of the weld, maybe a little filler work over the seam, paint, replace the seal and nobody would be the wiser.

its a 91mm ... going on a bbc... sorry to be bland but i cant really say specifics on the motor

how do you remove the door seal.. are you talking about the inner structure??
 
Take pictures of the engine bay for me if you don't mind. I am in the design phase of a single turbo ~540 inch motor for my 71 coupe. It will be on a 10.5" tire thouhh...
 
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