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Discussion starter · #21 ·
bracketchev1221 said:
Todd where did you run the alternator wire too? I need to rewire my battery cables when I get the car back this weekend but short of running the alternator all the way back to the trunk switch I can't think of any way of not having the car run on if the battery switch is off. It drives me nuts when I have questions and I can't look at the car to figure it out.
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The alternator feed connects to the right 150 amp max-fuse then to the battery side of the cut-off switch.

The alternator feed is supposed to connect to the battery in so the battery absorbs any spikes created by the alternator on shut-off.
 
#24 ·
10secBu said:
Finished up all the wiring last evening, just need to test everything out.

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You put one ground wire on each head? I have seen the heads gaskets, header gaskets and thread sealant on the head bolts isolate the head from getting full ground, pull plug out ground it on head = fair spark. grounded plug on block = much more spark , Ever since then at least a ground cable on the back of each head, It seems as if this is most important with Aluminum heads, but we do it on all of them
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
trmnatr said:
You put one ground wire on each head? I have seen the heads gaskets, header gaskets and thread sealant on the head bolts isolate the head from getting full ground, pull plug out ground it on head = fair spark. grounded plug on block = much more spark , Ever since then at least a ground cable on the back of each head, It seems as if this is most important with Aluminum heads, but we do it on all of them
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I've raced for almost 15 years and never grounded the heads. Have run aluminum heads for three years, heads not grounded.

Just this time around I did ground the heads. One cable from one head to the other, then one down to the chassis.

I doubt it'll make a hill of beans difference, but it had been recommended so I did it.
 
#27 ·
10secBu said:
I've raced for almost 15 years and never grounded the heads. Have run aluminum heads for three years, heads not grounded.

Just this time around I did ground the heads. One cable from one head to the other, then one down to the chassis.

I doubt it'll make a hill of beans difference, but it had been recommended so I did it.
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We only had an issue with 1, ever since then when we found out its something so stupid like that we just spend the couple extra dollars to do it, I never saw it until then

10secbu, you running carburetor? What track you running at this year, Cecil, Mason dixon, MIR ?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I run a pro Systems 1000HP 4150 Holley. Have run Patricks stuff since the mid/late 90's, probably longer than most here on TC.

I will be running all three of those tracks. I'll be at Cecil this Saturday for the first RAM race, then M/D next weekend for the MSRA race.
 
#30 ·
10secBu said:
The alternator feed connects to the right 150 amp max-fuse then to the battery side of the cut-off switch.

The alternator feed is supposed to connect to the battery in so the battery absorbs any spikes created by the alternator on shut-off.
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That is the way I have it done now, but my friend told me to wire the alternator to the terminal I have on the firewall where the battery cable connects. He said to use the larger gauge battery cable to carry the current to the battery. However I haven't been able to figure anyway to not have the alt. feeding the system instead of the battery, making the cutoff switch a waste. Just figured I'd ask. Thanks.
 
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#32 · (Edited)
10secBu said:
I've raced for almost 15 years and never grounded the heads. Have run aluminum heads for three years, heads not grounded.

Just this time around I did ground the heads. One cable from one head to the other, then one down to the chassis.

I doubt it'll make a hill of beans difference, but it had been recommended so I did it.
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So if the purpose of "floating ground" is to take the frame and body out of the ground path, why ground the heads to the frame? Very nice work BTW!:thumbsup: I wish our guys who install telecom equipment would do half as nice a job!
 
#36 ·
I may be wrong, but the fuse is there to protect the wire? why protect the wire at the end of the run. When I installed the rear safety on/off switch I ran a 4ga. charging wire unprotected and was told it could melt, catch fire.

I considered installing a painless wiring relay in the engine compartment and tie back into the battery cable at the starter. The 1/0 cable is rated for the current. 4ga and the length of the run I would think the cable is undersized. What do you think?
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
1bad67 said:
I may be wrong, but the fuse is there to protect the wire? why protect the wire at the end of the run. When I installed the rear safety on/off switch I ran a 4ga. charging wire unprotected and was told it could melt, catch fire.

I considered installing a painless wiring relay in the engine compartment and tie back into the battery cable at the starter. The 1/0 cable is rated for the current. 4ga and the length of the run I would think the cable is undersized. What do you think?
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Well, with the engine running, the fuse up front would protect the wire, but when the engine isn't running, the wire would then only have battery voltage on it. I've always been told the fuse protection belongs out back by the battery. Mine was that way before, but it was 8 gauge with a 12 gauge fusable link on the connection point. I guess I could see a fuse up front, but have not seen it done that way.

I went with 1/0 all the way to the starter to reduce any voltage drops. I was informed the Ford solenoids were junk and to get rid of it all together and use the GM solenoid instead of jumping it with the Ford solenoid.

I'll know in a few races if the slow crank issue is gone or not, but just spinning it over in the garage, it sure sounds to be spinning quicker than it ever has in the past.
 
#38 ·
You have a fuse up front for the 4ga charging wire? What size is the fuse. I would think the battery will charge better with the 4ga. The painless selonoid is to disabled the altenater, its toggled from the master switch. That way you can use the battery cable to charge the battery. Even better than the 4ga.

Were did you buy all the parts? It looks good.
 
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Sid Coleman
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