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#21 ·
baloo28 said:
I need to buy into being a team member to put up pictures, I've just been lazy about it. I do need to take some more pics tomorrow.

I do like the idea of welding supports across the trunk opening, but how do I keep them from sagging downward?
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You know we like pics so if you say tomorrow we'll be looking for them!:D
 
#22 ·
Rob I've been staring at your posts, and by golly, I just can't think of anything sarcastic to say. Wow that's a first.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
matt60j said:
You know we like pics so if you say tomorrow we'll be looking for them!:D
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Ok, I took some pics, but can't post them until Monday. I left the camera at work (where the car is).

I did get the pass side quarter drop off out today, what a pain in the keister! Part of the drop off was under the rear panel. I started to cut that out today. Most of the spot welds have been drilled out and now I have to figure out how part of it is attached. I'll buy into the website so I can post on Monday and maybe you fine folks will tell me what I'm doing wrong with it. The tail panel seems to be attached to the part that holds the tail lights. That edge is under the quarters. Am I right?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Rob, your responses and posts have been great. I go to your site quite often to figure things out and your pictures are great. My resto won't be as in depth as yours, but close. I wish I had a place to blast the whole car, but instead, I'm just blasting areas that need it to remove the rot.
 
#29 ·
66sc said:
The clamps rubadub shows in the pic aboce are $5 for 8 in the welding section at Harbor Freight and about $20 for 4 at Eastwood... Just trying to save folks a few buck.
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Good tip Kev:thumbsup: eastwood caught me sleepin.:)

Rob
 
#30 ·
Hi Baloo,I didthe 1 piece trunk and it was really easier than it looks, no kiddin, have to yell at it a little though to get it to fit. OK, what I did and I really was in unchartered waters when I cut mine out, you have to look out for where the existing one ties in to the rear seat and set / trunk divider. They all spot weld together to a cross brace that ties in the inner whellhouses. A real pain to drill out ( time consuming, not hard ), This is the toughest area to separate and then you will have to clear through the back / rear panel. I have noe body experience, just common sense and talented hands and me and my son did the rip out and install in about 6-7 hours, taking our time not to overcut anything, which we did. Then for re install I put it backin with new body mounts and snugged up on them to the final resting place prior to pinning with tech screws. That was easier than the floor pans. My advice is to look at everything and measure 10 x then cut once.

:hurray: Roland in NY.

Give me my MIG and I can show you how swiss cheese is made.:beers:
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
I started with the trunk as it looks like I can patch the floor instead of doing the whole thing. I can tell you that it took me at least 3 hours just to remove one quarter drop off as I wasn't sure what I was doing and just got a spot weld cutter.

Where the trunk meets the floor, I'm not going to disturb that joint. I'm going to cut the old trunk just in front of the hump in the center and make a clean cut line there. Unfortunately, the trunk removal showed how bad the wheel wells were so now they gotta go.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Update.....finally have enough saved to order the trunk pan and the drop offs. Should I wait to order the wheel wells (outers full and inner patches) and do it all at once or can I do the trunk and cut the quarters off later to do the wells? I did pull the rear tail piece (major pain in the keister) and think it's more than salvageable.
 
#33 ·
If your inners aren't completely gone then they will be a good reference point for your trunk. I would do the wheel wells later. I cut off a quarter before I had the trunk and tail section all finished and am now fighting with things not being where they are suppose to be. I'll get it back but it is taking some extra effort.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the input. I guess I'll order the trunk and drop offs Monday. Once the trunk is whole again and the tail panel is back in, I'll cut the quarters out to do the wheel well. Thanks!

The inners need patches as a minimum so I'll wind up getting the patches at the same time and do the outers later.
 
#35 ·
Hey Baloo, Im back in the game now. Got my old trunk out and ordered new inner and outer wheel houses, full quarters, fenders, tail panel, and drop offs this week. Im going to use the new full inner houses and cut it to just patch the bottom half so i dont have to disturb where the inner WH is welded to anything. just for ease of aligning when i put it all back together. That patch they sell wont cover all my rot so i just got the whole thing. Next im going to patch those inners, then put the new floor and tail panel in. once thats all done its qtr time. im only going to either clamp, screw or lightly tack it all in till everythings all there and aligned. here some pics where im at currently.

Image


Image


Image


Image
 
#37 ·
I just finished installing a goodmark single piece replacemnet panel in the truck of my 68. If I had to do it again I woud go with the 3 piece unit. The smaller the piece your putting in the better the chance you will get it right. In my oppinion this piece didn't fit very well at all. I had to do a lot of massaging just to make it look exceptable to me. I also didn't use the overlapping technique I know it's easier and a little stronger but I took the hard way and but welded everything.This take time so be patient. The better the patch fits before you weld it. The better it will turn out in the end.

As for the clecos there are great for holding panle during fittment. You cannot expect them to pull a panel into alignment. That will need to be done with a screw or clamp.

Be patient this take a lot of time. You might put your trunk pan in 20 times before it's right. You will need to use something to locate the panle each time you take it in and out. This is inportant so that your cutts are correct. When cutting the thinner the cuting wheel you have the better off you will be. It remover less material and creats less heat.

GOOD LUCK:)
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
New metal on order. The dynacorn dealer I have nearby said they are not up to speed on the quarter skins (instead of full quarters) so that will be on hold for a bit. Now the question.

Can I replace the outer well while the trunk is out or should I just do the inner, followed by the trunk and wait to do the outers with the quarters?

Thanks agian for all the info...I'll update pics on photobucket as things go along.
 
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baloo28
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