if you could buy any rear suspension what would it be and why . I am ready to buy a rear suspension and i need direction .My car is a full weight 69 chevelle stock body . 498ci with a tb 400 trans . moser 9" . what shocks and why thanks for any help .
the best rear suspension for a 69
fowl69
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I question that one myself. I been thinking of a way to put some kind of lower control arm stops on them as I have them on my car. The weight savings was like 25 lbs total from what I remember with the TRZs over stock. That and the built in caster are the only advantages I see in the TRZ arms besides looking cool.
Fowl69,
Plan on some extensive mods in the front with the AFCOs. I have TRZ arms and I also purchased AFCO double adjustables for the front (non coil overs). Looked like a whole lot of mods I was not up to doing to make them work in the front. I ended up with QA1 doubles in the front and put double AFCOs in the rear. Both were pretty much bolt in.
Also, I found the Moroso trick springs and the TRZ arms would not work for me on the street. The front was way too low and mushy. Even the heaviest rated Trick spring and I have an aluminum headed motor with a fiberglass hood. I could actually push down (bench press)the front end to bottom!! The trick spring was ok with the stock arms. Not sure, but I think the distance between the upper and lower spring perchs are longer with the TRZ which kills some of the spring rate. I ended up with a big block 5390 spring but, have a set of 5392 (lighter rating) ready to try if needed. Just thought I'd tell you my experience in case you run into the same stuff.
Ouch, I really hope you reverse that decision, Ken.
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When defenses come up, tempers flare.
It's a sad day for this forum.
Hope you change your mind. :yes:
alrighty then . well look kjett like ive always stated on any thing i post on here . thank you for the information you provided it will help guys on here as well as myself . and thanks to billygman some good information there to . bottom line is im trying to make a chevelle faster . Im not interrested in pi##### any one off . I have no idea how many times ive been down a 1/4 track . the only time that sticks in my mind is the first time and how scared i was in a 1978 ford pu and i left on the staging light . I made a A## out of myself . but hey that was in 1988 and that track is closed .
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2,256 Posts
Everything Todd mentions here is correct. I can speak from first hand experience about the issues with letting out of a wheelstand and the damage it causes by not having bump stops. I've looked it over and I can't come up with a simple bump-stop idea/location for these arms. Of course, it's only a problem when you let out of a wheelstand. Staying in it hasn't been too much of an issue, although I have dented a header tube with the shocks set on 8 of 16 clicks on compression.
what about the global west A arms do they have this ? and what about the QA1 shocks what is the prob with them . if there is one . I dont mind running the stock a arms but was looking to get rid of some weight. and john could you put a threaded hole for the bump stops that energy suspension sells on page 194 of your jegs book .
this kind of reminds me when i took an engineering class in college(i wasnt a brain child) we had a project, ended up there was no real correct answer, many ways to come up with the same answer-some students took the easy way out, like myself (relate to the car field, build a big enough engine to overcome any susp. faults) and there were the others who put more time in it, arrived at the same result but a much cheaper, thought out design (relate to cars, trial and error, same result with smaller engine)
what works for someone who has really put in the time, wont work for someone who bolts the same stuff in, but does not take the time to "tweak it"
engine power band, converter, even gears all affect the launch besides the susp.
i remember going to Super Chevy one year, guy had an El Camino, every pass this thing would carry the wheels-since i had a blown El, i wanted to see how he was setup(their prob. the hardest "A" body to hook, if you have ever 4 wheel scaled one, light azz end)
there was nothing trick under it, didnt even have adj shocks, but did have good strong control arms, adj. uppers, and a little weight over the rear axle
10secbu has put a lot of time into his setup, thats why he is faster than cars with bigger engines, he does a lot of investigating before making a change
there are a lot of chevelles out there hooking, and they all have diff setups, most using the stock control arm locations, but they have put in the time (and money) to dial in their setup-anymore its hard to go to the track, wait 5 hours to get in 2-3 runs and really make changes, but you have to do it week after week-or just put a huge engine in it and let it eat-lol
be happy, have fun, life is short, remember our troops, enjoy yourself, enjoy your car, enjoy othere peoples cars
what works for someone who has really put in the time, wont work for someone who bolts the same stuff in, but does not take the time to "tweak it"
engine power band, converter, even gears all affect the launch besides the susp.
i remember going to Super Chevy one year, guy had an El Camino, every pass this thing would carry the wheels-since i had a blown El, i wanted to see how he was setup(their prob. the hardest "A" body to hook, if you have ever 4 wheel scaled one, light azz end)
there was nothing trick under it, didnt even have adj shocks, but did have good strong control arms, adj. uppers, and a little weight over the rear axle
10secbu has put a lot of time into his setup, thats why he is faster than cars with bigger engines, he does a lot of investigating before making a change
there are a lot of chevelles out there hooking, and they all have diff setups, most using the stock control arm locations, but they have put in the time (and money) to dial in their setup-anymore its hard to go to the track, wait 5 hours to get in 2-3 runs and really make changes, but you have to do it week after week-or just put a huge engine in it and let it eat-lol
be happy, have fun, life is short, remember our troops, enjoy yourself, enjoy your car, enjoy othere peoples cars
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12,324 Posts
The last post pretty much sums up the problem. My car is not set up with all the best parts and probably could 60' better but I built mine on limited dollars and to me suspension just had to "work". I lived too far from the track and with work schedules didn't and still don't have time to go to the track and try things on the car. I got mine setup "safe" that it would go down any track and that is where I left it. And like was said there are many people on this website who have taken the time to play and tweak and change to optimize what they have. There is alot of good info out there and a lot of tried parts so you should be able to make a good choice on your parts.
I agree . When I started this car I did not want to wast money on parts ill have to change . that is why I sold the 12 bolt in the car and so forth and so on . I want to have parts on this car that any of the guys on TC can go out and get and have good results . with. I dont have a prob with my car is the fastest best or any of that . Right now we have a chance to exchange ideas through this media like no other time . I have all the specks on my engine trans rear and when i get done suspension if it doesnt work ill through it in the trash and start over . I work my A## off to buy parts for this car and just want to buy the right part . example. A member here on TC had a 12 bolt built with all the good parts with a posi now he has reached the limits of that rear with power and will have to step up and do somthing else . gonna cost him . is my car gonna be a drag car is my car gonna be a street car I dont know but i ant gonna brake my rear end and i ant gonna brake my trans . because i bought good stuff . knock on wood . sorry for the rant
I went with the wolfe racecraft stuff he had a great deal on his stuff right now
double ajus lowers and uppers
solid bushing for top mounting point of rear
as well as his double ajus anti roll bar
and went with the QA 1s on the rear.
All of this was well under 1000 bucks
I went with the wolfe racecraft stuff he had a great deal on his stuff right now
double ajus lowers and uppers
solid bushing for top mounting point of rear
as well as his double ajus anti roll bar
and went with the QA 1s on the rear.
All of this was well under 1000 bucks
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3,015 Posts
know this is nit picking Ken but the 68-72 cars have a three inch shorter wheelbase 112" vs. the 64-67s 115" and they can fit more tire comfortably. The 68-72 El Caminos and stations ride on a 116" W.B. I find these late model cars bite a little better than the earlier car as a general rule.
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3,015 Posts
Hi John, You have arrived at a point where controlling the amount of front end rise is more important than whether or not you have enough bite. That Super Stock thing doesn't work well when the car starts running below 9.50s. At the very least it's going to bounce two, three or four times and that costs time and if it hits very hard your going to have some parts damage. I look at the video of Ed's big red Chevelle and took a couple of bounces on the 10.07 run, maybe that and the weight is why he is trying to trade cars. Not much is prettier than a long controlled wheelstand and a soft landing, and not a lot uglier than a real high one that comes crashing down and tears up the headers and suspension pieces, oil pans, tranny pans, etc.
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3,015 Posts
fowl69, Did you get the double adjustable QA-1 shocks? If not, swap them for some Dbl. Adj. Afcos or DA Strange. My son tried the single adj. QA-1s and didn't have any luck with them.
One more thing I will be willing to provide any information on this car any of you guys want . like most guys on here do . so fill free to ask . if you want engine information just ask cam specks got them to . Ill be moving to the front soon so that will be a show to . I plan on having this car scaled and checked by a pro. as soon as i get it assembled I hope he doesnt giggle to much at my welding skillzzzz .
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Ray, I've only seen one that has a better sixty foot time than yours.
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That is the beauty of this hobby (?)....Many ways to skin a cat....What works for one setup doesn't mean you will get the same exact results on another.
Sometimes I wish there were a 1/4 mile track nearby (we have an 1/8 mile, Sturgis Dragway, SD), or that we had better traction at ours, but then I am reminded what it's like at the big tracks that you guys race at.
I have to wait until May, but the first night of street legal drags I will get a dozen runs in (if I want). And the next morning, when they have test and tune from 10-1, I'll get another 5 or 6 in. I've got a pretty basic suspension, but I am really going to test/tune it. That's what's fun. Doesn't matter what parts you have if you can't dial it all in together.
There are some nice things about racing at a "small" track. Can't wait!
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341 Posts
Chevelle owners are very angry people....................and because of this I have scrapped my plans to buy an original 70 LS6 454 convertible.
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1,529 Posts
Well, this topic got all weirded up - must be an odd alignment of the planets or something?
I'm closing in on 400 dragstrip passes, but I haven't made a pass for a couple of years now. I hope to get back to racing in 2008, stitches get removed from my ankle on Thursday
No matter what I've always found the drag suspension topics interresting and informative. If it were simple then everybody would have the same setup - but there is a lot going on when a car launches.
Maybe there should be a drag suspension sub-topic to the performance forum? What I think would become apparent is that when you make certain parts choices it dictates what other choices need to be complimentary. In other words there are several combos that are likely to be equally effective for a given powertrain combo in an early or late Chevelle.
I also hope that some day Billy gets that bad boy 632 onto a dragstrip - gonna be lots of learning when that happens Really,I wish that all of us could get as much track time as we desire!
I hope that fowl69 will keep us updated on his suspension and how well it works for his car.
Thomas
I'm closing in on 400 dragstrip passes, but I haven't made a pass for a couple of years now. I hope to get back to racing in 2008, stitches get removed from my ankle on Thursday
No matter what I've always found the drag suspension topics interresting and informative. If it were simple then everybody would have the same setup - but there is a lot going on when a car launches.
Maybe there should be a drag suspension sub-topic to the performance forum? What I think would become apparent is that when you make certain parts choices it dictates what other choices need to be complimentary. In other words there are several combos that are likely to be equally effective for a given powertrain combo in an early or late Chevelle.
I also hope that some day Billy gets that bad boy 632 onto a dragstrip - gonna be lots of learning when that happens
Really,I wish that all of us could get as much track time as we desire!I hope that fowl69 will keep us updated on his suspension and how well it works for his car.
Thomas
I hear ya on that one Tom. I have no doubt that there's yet to be a BIG learning curve for me to go through with this car, since I've already learned many things that I had previously no idea of just building the thing! :yes:I also hope that some day Billy gets that bad boy 632 onto a drag strip - gonna be lots of learning when that happens
Many of those things I've learned the hard way, but some I was able to learn the EZ way because of the great advice I've received from many on this board. :thumbsup: I can relate to some of the comments that have been shared here by a few other guys who like me don't live very close to a drag strip. I think that what some guys here who live within 20 or 30 minutes from one or even two drag strips take for granted is that not every state in the USA has a drag strip, and the whole entire culture is different around areas near drag strips.
There are so many more businesses geared towards drag cars in areas near drag strips. In my area, there's only one race car fabrication/chassis shop that I know of, and although I'm sure the place does have some experience with setting up drag cars, their specialty is circle track cars since there are only circle tracks here in my home state.
And that alone can make things a bit more challenging and even more expensive for me than they are for guys who have a choice of perhaps 3 or 4 race car shops all within a 30 minute drive from where they reside. So where you live has a lot to do with the choices that you make for your street/strip car. As long as I reside where I presently do, I'll never be able to have an all-out drag car that I can bring to the track every week, or even 8 months out of the year for that matter. So there are compromises that I had to make concerning the build choices of my car. Some hardcore racers who reside close to at least one or two drag strips might not be able to relate to my statements, but that's because they're in a different area and a different situation.
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Well Billy, we are straying from the topic. However, rather than the distance from the nearest track, the thing that will most keep your car's drag potential a mystery is the 13 second safety gear on a 9 second car. No roll bar or cage = no runs.
Thomas
Thomas
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