I'm rebuilding my suspension front and back. All new bushings, new springs and struts. What shocks and struts are you guys running in your pro tourer. My car is mainly gonna be for cruisin or going across state. Rarely ever going to see track time. I would like a good launch but I'm not concerned about track times. Thanks guys.
All you pro touring pro's
One Bad 70
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I'm rebuilding my suspension front and back. All new bushings, new springs and struts. What shocks and struts are you guys running in your pro tourer. My car is mainly gonna be for cruisin or going across state. Rarely ever going to see track time. I would like a good launch but I'm not concerned about track times. Thanks guys.
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15 Posts
I read about a company called BMR. Turns out they are local to me in Central Fl. The product is similar to Hotchkins, but less expensive. My buddy has the same Hotchkins stuff but both agree that I did better for the money.
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46 Posts
I have koni's on my 70 Convert. It has the hotchkis TVS and 17 inch Billet Rally's. It is a little rough a time but that is probably due to the 17's and being a Convert.
I am very happy with it anyway.
I am very happy with it anyway.
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15,748 Posts
The only thing Hotchkis does well is their springs and re-valved bilstein shocks.
A few of their other products aren't bad, but are way overpriced.
Avoid any rigid rear arm with firm single-axis bushings. Rubber bushings or spherical bearings/johnny joints are the only bushing types that work well there. Up front, correcting the camber-curve will make the biggest difference... tall balljoints from SC&C (www.scandc.com) are the most cost-effective way to do this with NO drawbacks like those of the steering geometry issues with the B-body spindles that most of the "big" companies sell as a "performance" spindle.
A few of their other products aren't bad, but are way overpriced.
Avoid any rigid rear arm with firm single-axis bushings. Rubber bushings or spherical bearings/johnny joints are the only bushing types that work well there. Up front, correcting the camber-curve will make the biggest difference... tall balljoints from SC&C (www.scandc.com) are the most cost-effective way to do this with NO drawbacks like those of the steering geometry issues with the B-body spindles that most of the "big" companies sell as a "performance" spindle.
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