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psellars67SS

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've searched on the forum and found a few hits but I can't quite decide. I have a 1967 SS clone that looks and runs pretty decent. The tach and water temp gauges do not work. I see the tach wire from the distributor has been cut, not sure why. The water temp gauge concerns me the most. I know the engine is running warm, 402 - headers, slight cam, stock fan assembly and shroud, but I don't know how hot. I'm concerned without a temp gauge. I've shorted the sensor to see if the gauge moves, it doesn't. So I either have a wiring problem or the gauge is bad. What do you all think about an after market, below the dash temp gauge? The wiring in this car is a mess and I'm not the most wiring savy! :(

Ideas?

Thanks,

Perry
 
#2 ·
Lots of folks run an under-the-dash set of gauges, usually the triple combo of water temp, oil pressure, and ammeter. The 2 1/16" set is the smallest readily available. I'd say the electric sender type is more accurate and is easier to install versus the long tube needed for a mechanical water temp sender. Plus, adding new gauges means you can run new wires and not have to mess with the factory spaghetti wiring loom.

If you do run wire for an electric sender, try to use wire with high-temp insulation and not the parts-store vinyl covered wire. The vinyl insulation will easily melt when exposed to the high radiant temps found around headers. I've had good luck with THHN wire, good for up to 194F, and it also resists oil and resists wear very well. Wire codes that start with SF are silicone jacketed and are good up to 200C.
 
#3 ·
If you go with the tripple gage mount
Make sure it has a VOLTMETER instead of a Ammeter
Much easier to install--and a bad gage won't start a fire.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the information. I'm going to troubleshoot the original gauge today but if I can't get it to work, I'll probably just hang a single temp gauge since the others appear to work.

Now if I can just figure out which wire comes from the tach and re-connect it to the distributor. :confused:

Perry
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Well? The Blinker-RPM gauge is properly wired. The folks I bought the car from had disconnected the original "brown" wire from the distributor. I hooked it up tonight, tapped on the gauge and off it went. And off it is, to the tune of about 1k. I see now why the other wire was even in place. I'm assuming the previous owner had a different RPM gauge in place and cut it out when they sold it. But I'm happy with using this gauge. I'm not racing so I really won't get near true red-line and if I do, I'll know that 6k on the gauge is actually 5k- 500 under redline.

Regarding the water temp. I'm going to replace the sensor (once I get the thing out of the intake) and give that a try before I get too far into this deal. The engine was re-painted and I'm thinking they repainted with the sensor installed. So far, I can't break it loose with a 15/16 wrench, socket or anything else. Looks like I'll have to try a good sized pair of vice-grips to rip it out. Not sure why someone would drive this thing so hard? The price you pay for someone else's work.

If the sensor/sender doesn't work, thinking I'll just run an electrical knee-knocker gauge under the dash.

Thanks for all your input and help,

Perry
 
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psellars67SS
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