The basic items needed to pass tech inspection for the typical street car include good tires,dual throttle return springs, a battery tie-down, radiator overflow catch-can, operable neutral-safety switch,all wheel studs must be in good condition,no more than 12" of neoprene hose, operating seat belts, and a valid state driver's license or NHRA competition license is required for all participants. Don’t forget to wear long pants, shoes, and a shirt!
A helmet is one of the first safety items that you may need to purchase.I think you will find that most tracks insurance will require one regardless of ET. The NHRA rules state that.. Any vehicle that runs faster than 13.99 seconds, and all motorcycles and dune buggy-type cars, must have an approved helmet. Helmets that meet NHRA requirements include those that have a SNELL approval of 90 or 95, as well as those with an SFI rating of 31.1, 31.2, 41.1, or 41.2.
The following is a list of major items that are required as specific ET’s and speeds. This list is a guideline, and we recommend consulting a current NHRA rulebook for specific details, specifications, and diagrams.
13.99 seconds
- Drive Line Loop with slicks (13.00 with street tires)
- Approved helmet and roll bar in convertibles
- SFI seat belts in convertibles
11.99 seconds
- SFI approved jacket and roll bar
- SFI approved seat belts
- SFI Flywheel / Clutch / Bellhousing Steel Valve Stems / Arm Restraints (open cars)
10.99 seconds or Super Stree
- SFI Transmission Shield,
or at 135 mph - Aftermarket axles
- SFI Harmonic Balancer
- Roll Cage with altered floor pans,
or 135 mph - Window net required
- Ignition cut-off on all bikes / snowmobiles that exceed 135 mph
9.99 seconds or Super Gas or 135 mph
- NHRA Chassis Certification
- NHRA Competition License
- SFI neck collar
- SFI gloves SFI flexplate / flexplate shield
150 mph
Parachute.
HERE IS A LITTLE BATTERY ADVICE...
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
You'd probably be safer running rubber the whole way.
