Team Chevelle banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

soccerguy045

· Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm soon going to build a 454 and need to get a flywheel for a manual trans. Is there a particular brand I should get, or just one from GM, or what? It will need to be balanced for a 454 which is externally balanced, and I'm wanting to balance the complete rotating assembly. Is it wise to match clutch and flywheel? I'm hoping the engine to be fairly strong. Going through the upcoming Muncie-5spd and go a 4.10 rear. Any tips on how to go about selecting this? Thanks.
 
Save
For a clutch, I've had good luck with my 3-finger borg-beck Hays strip/strip clutch. Has good street manners, doesn't jerk or grab funny. Always smooth and it can handle slicks at the track as well. Most guys on here will probably tell you to go with a CF dual friction though. The Hays is a bit cheaper though I think, and I have had no problems with it. I also use a Hays flywheel
Why not go internally balanced for the new motor if you haven't already bought the crank?

.....looked at your website.....nice looking Chevelle and a few other things also :D
 
Save
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Heh, thanks...I think the other things are a bit nicer than the Chevelle myself, though..

I've already got the crank, as I'm using the stock cast crank, so I'm guessing it'll have to stay externally balanced?

Should I get any sort of 'special' flywheel or is just some GM or anything ok--i.e. is a flywheel is a flywheel is a flywheel?

Thanks.
 
Save
you need to get a forged or billit flywheel. Stay away from the factory cast ones. I've never seen one, but I have herd stories of the cast ones comming apart. Make sure you get a blow proof/scatter sheild bellhousing. I used a Ram street/strip clutch(diaphram) a few years ago behind a 396. Car ran 12.50's-70's. The clutch would start to slip when power shifting with slicks.
 
Save
Taylor,
All the flywheel companies make an externally balanced unit far as I know.
You can also have the crank balanced with a "balance plate" that goes between the crank & flywheel & then use any neutral balance flywheel.
It is just a thin plate & will cause no problems whatsoever but I always use ARP flywheel bolts with them just to make me feel warm & fuzzy. ;)
I have used them in a number of budget external 383 deals.

And as Ray said, get a good flywheel & a scattershield,,, I have seen the results of a flywheel explosion & we would hate to have to nickname you "stumpy" or "three toes"
Image
 
I have used hays,zoom,centerforce,mcleod. I have had the best results with mcleod. I was able to launch at 5000 rpm with M&H racemasters and squeeze a 175 shot and the clutch would hold.The other cluthes weren't as successful for me.I would strongly sugest a block plate and scattersheild. I saw one come apart in my friends 67 camero,looked like someone was splitting wood inside his car.
 
So you guys think that GM p/n #14096987 for around $100 is going to blow up?

When exactly do they blow, launch, shifts, high rpm, whenever?
 
Save
Originally posted by 427L88:
So you guys think that GM p/n #14096987 for around $100 is going to blow up?

When exactly do they blow, launch, shifts, high rpm, whenever?
=
Gene,
They can all come apart & almost always do it at RPM & it can be on the starting line or during a shift but it can be at any point.
My own personal opinion is anyone who runs a clutch car without a scattershield is about 26 card short of a full deck :D

I had one come apart in a car almost 40 years ago at Fremont Raceway & it made shrapnel of the stock cast iron bellhousing & took part of the floorboards & part of the dash out of a 55 Chevy.
I was VERY lucky to say the least.

I watched one come apart in a blown alcohol dragster at Bakersfield & it broke every bolt holding the can to the engine & the inside of the can looked like a grenade went off in there.
Watched a well known Top Fuel car cut damn near in half at Orange County & there were pieces of his clutch in the pits on the other side of the grandstands.

My best suggestion is to run a scattershield
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the advice. I've been planning to run a scattershield. This is just basically a super strong bellhousing right, and bolts up normally? Just double checking.
 
Save
Mike, I actully don't want to run a scattershield, but felt that if I upgraded the flywheel, the actual risk of a cast piece shrapneling on me is greatly reduced.

Does it happen with steel flywheels also?
 
Save
The sheild is slightly larger than stock. Do to the block plate.It bolts right up.They are designed to keep all the parts contained during an explosion.All stock gm parts work with them,clutch fork,bellhousing ballstud,motorstud,clutch adjustrod,spring,Z-bar.
 
I had a BB Vette that I power shifted in to second @ 7700 to many times. It broke an outer axel, rear end yoke and hit the rev limiter @ 8000. It looked like someone took a saw and cut them into, clean break. Anyway the clutch let lose and there is no way to tell you what the inside of the scatter shield looked like. My legs even body were thanking me for running the scatter shield. A very cheep piece for insurance. It is probably one of the cheapest pieces that if you have problem you will be very thankful for. Just my .02. Best of luck
 
Save
Originally posted by 427L88:
Mike, I actully don't want to run a scattershield, but felt that if I upgraded the flywheel, the actual risk of a cast piece shrapneling on me is greatly reduced.

Does it happen with steel flywheels also?
You bet your little feet it can :D
Trust me, a blown alcohol car does nut used a cast flywheel nor does a TF car.
Want another professional opinion,,, drop Don Garlits a line & ask him about a couple of shortened or missing digits ;)

As I told someone else on here a while back, we would hate to have to nickname you "stumpy" or
"ole threetoes" :rolleyes:
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.