Team Chevelle banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

2 questions 1 thread (1 brake, 1 suspension)

Jump to Latest
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
R

RedSpecialSS

· Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
1. My front passenger caliper is constantly grabbing making the car pull real hard and burning though pads Can you rebuild calipers or can we still get them new (rebuilt) from the parts store?

2. The front end of my car is sitting super high. It was sitting high before but now that I put aluminum heads and removed all the AC junk its sitting a lot higher, higher then the rear. What are some simple ways to drop the front a bit? Dont really want to change the spindles and all that kind of stuff...
 
#2 ·
Cardone rebuilt calipers are readily available from any parts-store, although the flexible rubber brake-hose may be part of the problem rather than the caliper.

As for lowering the car, any "good" way is going to require removing the spring. How much lower do you want it to be? Cutting one coil from the spring would get it nice and low.
 
#3 ·
To answer your 1st question. Before replacing the calipers. See if the bleeder screw will open but dont force it if it doesnt. If it wont move then leave it for now and soak it with penetrant for a while, sometimes you can get away with heating around the bleeder with a torch to loosen it up. If it will open, grab a pan or something to trap the fluid for this next step. Open the bleeder, then compress the piston to see if it will move back in easily using a big channel lock or c-clamp, making sure you point the bleeder towards the pan if you took it off. If it doesnt open then you will need to replace the caliper. If it does move freely, compress the piston all the way back in and watch the bleeder to finish bubbling out for a few seconds, then close it. Check to see if the caliper slides in and out, now that the piston is compressed. If that doesnt work, you may be able to free the slides with some caliper lube and be good to go. The bolts aid in how the calipers slide.

2nd. question. Make sure if you decide to cut a coil off, that you dont use a torch to do it. Use a cut off wheel or similar method to remove a coil.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#4 ·
Before you open the bleeder dissconnect the brake hose at the steel line then push the piston back. If it goes back the caliper is ok and the hose is not collapsed. If it doesn't go back open the bleeder and push the piston back. If it goes back now the caliper is ok but the hose is collapsed. Very often the hose will let the fluid through but not back causing the caliper to stick.

As for the springs, your brobably in the small block waight range now if it is a big block with the lighter heads. If its a small block with lighter heads I would try a set of 6 cyl springs, if its a big block with lighter heads I would try a set of small block springs. You will have to do a wheel alignment after the spring change. I would not cut the coils, Thats a cheep way around the problem and will probably cause more greef than its worth.
 
#5 ·
If the bleeder breaks off if it wont come loose. The caliper will need to be replaced. Not a big deal since they are inexpensive anyways.


chassis man said:
Before you open the bleeder dissconnect the brake hose at the steel line then push the piston back. If it goes back the caliper is ok and the hose is not collapsed. If it doesn't go back open the bleeder and push the piston back. If it goes back now the caliper is ok but the hose is collapsed. Very often the hose will let the fluid through but not back causing the caliper to stick.
Click to expand...
The only problem with taking off the brake hose first is that, if the bleeder screw is rusted and frozen. You still need to get it open to bleed out the system since the removal of the brake hose has now allowed air into the system.:)
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#6 ·
Chris R said:
If the bleeder breaks off if it wont come loose. The caliper will need to be replaced. Not a big deal since they are inexpensive anyways.




The only problem with taking off the brake hose first is that, if the bleeder screw is rusted and frozen. You still need to get it open to bleed out the system since the removal of the brake hose has now allowed air into the system.:)
Click to expand...
That's true, if the bleader will not budge just heat it up with a torch, then cool it down fast with a wet rag or some water. Should come loose easy.
 
#9 ·
RedSpecialSS said:
wait... what?
Click to expand...
When the bleeder is hot put a candle against its base. The wax will melt and wick into the threads. That will help lubricate them. This is not unlike soldering copper pipe. The solder wicks around the pipe when everything is heated.

By "wick" I mean the wax will flow into and through whatever debris is causing the bleeder screw to stick and not unscrew.
 
#10 ·
Heating works great. Make sure you heat around the bleeder and not the bleeder itself or it will most certainly twist right off.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well, just got back from the parts store, the rebuilt caliper was only $25 and the brake line was only $15 so I got both, figured it wouldnt hurt to do them. I'll let you know if I have any other issues.

Also, I am going to eventually look at putting the SBC springs in there. Maybe later I'll post a picture and show how the car sits vs. how I want it to sit.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
About this Discussion
10 Replies
5 Participants
Last post:
RedSpecialSS
Team Chevelle
posts
5.3M
members
131K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet Chevelle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restorations, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Performance Engine Chevelle Tech Body Shop