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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Looks like someone used a tow hook on the core support to pull the car at some point and it put a nasty kink in it. Among the kink, the core support has a slight twist in that area and is pulled out towards the front bumper.

I've tried to bend that kink out, I've used a hammer, pry bars, a plumbers wrench, etc. I've heated the area up with a mini torch and nothing seems to work. The whole core support just shakes and bends.

How would one go about fixing it?

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If you want perfection...Replace it.
It'll never be the same, but it is fixable. I'd cut only where the metal is folded over, and then hammer and dolly the metal back straight. A large cresent wrench to twist the metal back into shape. Then when your satisfied, weld it back together. The metal has been stretched, so you'll nedd to remove some. Or do what Pugsy suggested. Pugsy's way is probable easier.
 
Cut it out, straighten it in a vise and with a big hammer, then weld it back in. Unless the entire piece is twisted or something.
 
I agree with all of the above, and add that repairing a core support with significant damage is mighty unusual. Looks like they go for up to $250 new (here). If they were 4 or 600 new, a fix might be considered.

Depends on whether you have a welder and can fix it in less than a day, or not.

Personally, if repairing I might just cut the whole middle section out, seperate the halves, straighten them, then patch what won't straighten, then weld it all back together. Quality of the fix is up to you and your function / appearance expectations. So...

Can be fixed but not really worth it if you value your labor time.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I agree with all of the above, and add that repairing a core support with significant damage is mighty unusual. Looks like they go for up to $250 new (here). If they were 4 or 600 new, a fix might be considered.

Depends on whether you have a welder and can fix it in less than a day, or not.

Personally, if repairing I might just cut the whole middle section out, seperate the halves, straighten them, then patch what won't straighten, then weld it all back together. Quality of the fix is up to you and your function / appearance expectations. So...

Can be fixed but not really worth it if you value your labor time.
Up in Canada, a core support is about $400 which is too much with all the other stuff I have to buy.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I suspect I would have to take the core support out before I cut it?

I really don't want to take it out of the car. haha.

You guys are right, this might be a waste of time and I could be opening a can of worms.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Does the damage affect the look of the car?
If not, leave it.
Exterior wise, no. But it doesn't really fit the radiator too well. I bought a new rad that is of the correct size and it's worse. The little rubber feet that the rad sits on wont even sit on the core support because it's so bent.
 
I'd use 2x4s to work on squeezing out the bow while hammer and dollying the point damage where the chain or whatever was hooked. Maybe drill through the 2x4s at the 4" side and using some allthread to make a giant clamp that won't flex. Tighten the clamp, hammer and dolly, tighten, repeat.
Eventually, you will likely need to use clamp that bends past straight because the bow will spring back somewhat.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I think this is a losing battle. The whole thing is so twisted. You can see with the radiator in the cradle how much of a gap there is at the top. If i make it straight at the top, it doesn't sit in the bottom at all. I hate the feeling of defeat and the idea of dropping another $400 that I didn't account for.

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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Oh, but you have at least another 10 x 400 buck's to drop yet, that you don't even know about yet. This is how this fun works. Pain in the pocket book.
Isn't that the truth. haha.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I may have spoke too soon. I took the core support to a buddy's house that has a hoist and we used it as a press. Some creative use of some blocks of wood and we got it pretty darn straight.

I test fitted in the car and it seems okay. The drivers fender is a bit off, but I think it's always been off. I know for sure the gap was always tight at the door. I'm hoping I can adjust it, though I may need to open up some holes to allow for more adjustment.

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