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12 bolt differential
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#22 ·
I have removed a broken lock bolt in the past by using something sharp, like the tip of a test light and I was able to screw the broken piece out. I think it has about only 1 or 2 threads left on it after breaking.. Good luck!!
 
#23 ·
I don’t think you’re missing more than a thread. Here’s one I pulled out of my C10’s 12 bolt. Used a small magnet to pull the pin. I’m only counting 6 threads on yours and mine
Image
 
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#24 ·
as eric mentioned,in my dads shop back in the 70's and 80's we saw alot of those bolts broken.if you look at what threads you have and compare it to the thickness of the carrier you will see it pretty much breaks right at the end of the threads,and as jasons post shows it might be easier then you think.
 
#25 ·
After watching that video using the purchased "kit" - I seriously doubt that was a carbide tipped 12" long drill bit...... which means that cross pin is more-than-likely not hardened.

Clever kit indeed!
 
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#26 · (Edited)
IDK if the cross shaft pin is hardened or not. I thought they are, but I'm not positive. As for me, I'd buy a set of left hand drill bits and try drilling on what's left of the broken cross shaft bolt, ( if you have room to get in there). Left hand bits really come in handy sometimes. If you haven't used them, they tend to loosen and begin turning the remains of the broken bolt out of the hole before a deep hole is even bored into the bolt remains. The more centered you are with the drill bit, the better. If it's tight in there, it might require a small 90 degree drill motor.

BTW, I'd leave the use of the EZ-out screw extractor as a very last resort. "Why" you ask? Because they're made pretty hard, and as a result are also very brittle and crack easily if you have to place any torque on it to remove the remains of the bolt. And they often break off flush in the hole you've drilled, and it's close to impossible to drill out the remains of an EZ-out because they're so hard, ( don't ask me how I know that :rolleyes: ....but let's just say I learned that the hard way when I was in my mid 20's).
 
#27 ·
I had this happen, I used a touch to blow out the end of the cross shaft to get it out of the way so I could pull the axles.

Then pulled the carrier, tried welding on the pin, buggered up the threads, then made a cleaning tap from a bolt and managed to get it to turn out .
 
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#28 ·
That's what I love about you guys, there's always something to learn here. That was a great video!! In a situation such as this, I'd say the drill kit is money well spent. In the mechanic's world there's that old saying, "every 20 minute job is just a broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal".

The only thing I would add to this is when tapping the easy out into the drilled hole, go easy with the hammer and just tap it enough to seat the easy out. If you smack it too hard you could swell out the pin and jam it into the hole (been there).
 
#29 ·
I have a tool like shown in the video, I bought it after seeing a buddy struggle with a broken bolt, but I have never needed it. I lended it out once and was told it worked well.
www.skywaytools.com

Deluxe Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt Extractor Kit

Deluxe differential lock nut bolt extractor extraction set will remove broken locknut bolt from your pinion shaft quickly and easily for a low price.
www.skywaytools.com www.skywaytools.com
 
#30 ·
curtvan said:
I have a tool like shown in the video, I bought it after seeing a buddy struggle with a broken bolt, but I have never needed it. I lended it out once and was told it worked well.
www.skywaytools.com

Deluxe Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt Extractor Kit

Deluxe differential lock nut bolt extractor extraction set will remove broken locknut bolt from your pinion shaft quickly and easily for a low price.
www.skywaytools.com www.skywaytools.com
Click to expand...
After watching the video they have on that site, I'm guessing that the OP probably doesn't have any threads on the remaining part of that bolt which is stuck inside the hole, ( as others have suggested). If it was a larger diameter bolt, then he might have room to weld something to it to pull it out, but he probably cannot do that wit the small diameter bolt that is. I'm wondering if he might get lucky if he placed a very strong "earth" magnet on it, and yanked it out. Seeing is how it was covered in gear oil when in use, it can't be rusted in there. So it might be worth a shot after giving it a few taps with a hammer in hopes of jarring it loose enough to extract with a magnet.
 
#31 ·
BillyGman said:
After watching the video they have on that site, I'm guessing that the OP probably doesn't have any threads on the remaining part of that bolt which is stuck inside the hole, ( as others have suggested). If it was a larger diameter bolt, then he might have room to weld something to it to pull it out, but he probably cannot do that wit the small diameter bolt that is. I'm wondering if he might get lucky if he placed a very strong "earth" magnet on it, and yanked it out. Seeing is how it was covered in gear oil when in use, it can't be rusted in there. So it might be worth a shot after giving it a few taps with a hammer in hopes of jarring it loose enough to extract with a magnet.
Click to expand...
The one I dealt with had like 2/3 of a thread left and had to be threaded out.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
RAIDER SS said:
After watching that video using the purchased "kit" - I seriously doubt that was a carbide tipped 12" long drill bit...... which means that cross pin is more-than-likely not hardened.

Clever kit indeed!
Click to expand...
It's not. Found out the hard way. well..... the not so hard way, however you want to look at it. lol
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
UPDATE
I took a lot of tips and suggestions from this thread to try to resolve the problem I had. This thing fought me every step of the way. I only have the weekends to work on the car and this endeavor took me several weekends, way more than I would have wanted. I have used easy outs many times before, I could not get it started on this instance. I first tried several drill bits, including cobalt, carbide, and titanium. I tried the kit that Yukon offers for this job in particular.... twice! FYI the drill bits that come with the Yukon kit are softer than the bolt I was trying to drill a hole into. After I gave up on trying to get the bolt out with an easy out I decided I was just going to drill it out. I ordered two carbide 0.25" bits that were 12" long. I didn't make any progress there either. Damn, do I just suck? At this point I decided too much money and too much time has been spent trying to get this bolt out. I'll just cut it out, so that's what I did with a dremmel and a cutting wheel attachment. The cross pin is supposed to just slide in and out easily after getting the bolt out, not the case here. That cross pin fought me as well. I had to wiggle and punch it out with a lot of force. Finally got the rear axles out and found that one of them is totally gouged and f%$&# and needs to be replaced.
FYI, I was planning on replacing the entire differential assembly but it looks like I am also replacing the rear axles now as well. This happens sometimes when you work on cars I guess.
Image

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#38 ·
I can awesome guarantee that assembly with new parts will be easier. Good luck and keep up posted of the progress!
 
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Captain_Carl
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