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Holley oil pan?

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#21 ·
Dmaxs10 said:
Is the 302-3 still the best way to go at that price?
Also seeing some people having issues with the holes for the turbo drains being tight to the frame. Will the ports be usable?
I do plan on using holley foward engine mounts and trans mount so it would be nice to go holley pan from thay point of veiw.
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For my 5.3 turbo in a 70', I used holley forward mounts and 302-3 pan. Fitment is great. I was unable to use the drain port, way too tight of a fit. I ended up draining into timing cover.

I show all of this here in this video:

 
#22 ·
If you use the Holley pan and plan on pulling lateral G's, look into the trap door sump accessory Holley has. Cheap insurance to keep oil around the pickup.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Dmaxs10 said:
Having issues with the knock off ones?
Click to expand...
Yea, they dont fit.

Real 302-2 Holley cast into bottom and fits A body
Image




Fake 302-2. Different shape, doesn't fit A body - can get on Amazon just over $100

Image
 
#29 ·
G-man A-body said:
I see that the holley 302-2 is more narrow than the knock off on the front of the sump. Is this the problem with fitting the 64 chevelle A body
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You would have to ask the guys who tried and failed. From looking at it I would assume the inner tie rods would be at least one of the problems. I just know I have heard of numerous failed attempts. I went with the Holley the first time out.
 
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#30 ·
G-man A-body said:
I see that the holley 302-2 is more narrow than the knock off on the front of the sump. Is this the problem with fitting the 64 chevelle A body
Click to expand...
I would say yes. You need it to be thin in the middle of the motor to clear the cross member, the holley pan has a sharp drop, the knockoff is rolled, like an fbody LS1 oil pan. I'm running the fbody pan in my 64 and notched the frame so it would clear. When I was putting my car together I'd read where guys could just heat up the cross member and dent it a little to get this oil pan to clear but I don't see how. It's complex curves makes for a nightmare w/ LS being squared off. You can see what I did here, just trimmed the crossmember and welded in some angle iron: https://www.chevelles.com/posts/9802306/

The "muscle car" pan is off a Hummer / H3 Alpha platform. It works great for dropping an LS in an S10 or blazer but the sump is stupid low to ever put in a muscle car.
 
#32 ·
Hotwire said:
I would say yes. You need it to be thin in the middle of the motor to clear the cross member, the holley pan has a sharp drop, the knockoff is rolled, like an fbody LS1 oil pan. I'm running the fbody pan in my 64 and notched the frame so it would clear. When I was putting my car together I'd read where guys could just heat up the cross member and dent it a little to get this oil pan to clear but I don't see how. It's complex curves makes for a nightmare w/ LS being squared off. You can see what I did here, just trimmed the crossmember and welded in some angle iron: https://www.chevelles.com/posts/9802306/

The "muscle car" pan is off a Hummer / H3 Alpha platform. It works great for dropping an LS in an S10 or blazer but the sump is stupid low to ever put in a muscle car.
Click to expand...
I did the same on my 69 but went right thru top and bottom. Dang, wish I hadda seen yours first.
 
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