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1967 396 - need new cam

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Jdenenno

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
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Hey all, fresh rebuild on a former bracket racing 396. Block is from 1967, and I believe (will confirm after I pull the engine) that the builder didn’t account for the fact that early 67 blocks required the oil groove in the cam to create oil pressure. Regardless I think my current cam is toast (Comp Cams 11-106-3 flat tappet solid lifter). I’d like street/strip manners. Due to cost I think I want to stay solid lifter. Any recommendations? I do not want a cheap cam, looking for performance and reliability out of this one and a nice lopey idle wouldn’t be bad either 😎

I have 454 1.7 rockers with new matched springs.

Current cam card in pic
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Guessing 10.5:1 compression, iron heads, m22 Muncey, 3.55 gears, not drag racing this, Hoping for 5500 or less RPM range (don’t need 7k+), Edelbrock air gap pro intake manifold, Holley 850 DP mechanical secondaries,
 
#7 ·
That cam you have there is LS6 or 396-425 hp cam they use to replace the GM High performance cam. in a 454 that should drive pretty good. Were you able to drive car at all or did the lack of the groove ruin the party up front? Given you situation a nice hydraulic roller might be good I realize a little more on cost. However, it sounds like you went through one cam clown show not sure you want to go through another with a bad break-in.
 
#9 ·
Along with your cam change, lose 100+ cfm on that carb and you will gain throttle response. 396 needs 850 cfm at 7500 rpms+.

If you elect to stay flat tappet and not roller , I would ONLY use Mike Jones to ensure i got the right lifters.

Jones Cams

jonescams.com jonescams.com

If you go roller, the ISKY one size smaller than the one used in 454s is spot on. 218/228 duration.
 
#10 ·
keithb said:
67 blocks did not need the groove.
Click to expand...
That's what I thought also. But It might depend on the build date of the body.
Being an ex bracket car that might not be the engine in it now. Run your numbers.
750 is a great carb and can get a BB into the 11's easily. AED makes great carbs and I hear AMD are good. Stay away from street avenger and brawler unless you have the ability to tune
it.
Just me but if I trashed a cam I would tare the engine down for a full clean and check over.
Rick
 
#11 ·
mrpaticular said:
That's what I thought also. But It might depend on the build date of the body.
Being an ex bracket car that might not be the engine in it now. Run your numbers.
750 is a great carb and can get a BB into the 11's easily. AED makes great carbs and I hear AMD are good. Stay away from street avenger and brawler unless you have the ability to tune
it.
Just me but if I trashed a cam I would tare the engine down for a full clean and check over.
Rick
Click to expand...
its very cut and dry. if it is 961/962 396 block or a 942 427 block it needs a groove. if its a 406 67 only 396 block it does not need a groove. the new 351 427 block is the same
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
oh yeah, we’re way past that now lol…plenty of break in oil, broke in the cam, lost oil pressure now I’m pulling the engine and tearing it down to try again. Unsure if it’s an oil pump issue, bottom end problem, bad cam. Regardless I need to change the cam, there is no way it’s still ok given 0psi Oil
 
#17 ·
Sorry to hear of your troubles. The cam grind on the tag is an L78/L72/LS6 solid lifter grind used by GM during 1965-1971. I run a similar Howards cam with an additional .019 valve lift in my '69 L78 396. Cam is very tractable with decent idle and mid range power, with a bit of ummph above 5,500 too. This is a decent low-buck street cam as long as you use poly locks. I would also recommend Comp Cam Magnum rockers as they are far superior to the stock GM stamped steel variety and do not cost much either. Good luck,
 
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Jdenenno
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