I own a 1971 {A} Body Buick Skylark . I Know its not a Chevelle please dont judge lol. Any way after I changed out my brake booster,master cylinder and three out the four brake lines under the car . I didnt change out the proportioning valve in this prosess. Then bleed the brake system and everything was great . About a month after this I was coming back home from a short trip and I could smell brakes , by the time I got home and stopped the car , Then I put it back in drive the car wouldnt move , Pedal hard as a rock also . I let brakes cool down for a few hours started it up and then brakes released and i could move the car. With all that in mind I can actually just start the car cold and let it idle until its up to temp. and it will do the same ,brakes will lock up ??? Im all ears for suggestions , Thanks for any comments in advance !!
Brake issues. {4 wheel drum}
71 BUICK
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I own a 1971 {A} Body Buick Skylark . I Know its not a Chevelle please dont judge lol. Any way after I changed out my brake booster,master cylinder and three out the four brake lines under the car . I didnt change out the proportioning valve in this prosess. Then bleed the brake system and everything was great . About a month after this I was coming back home from a short trip and I could smell brakes , by the time I got home and stopped the car , Then I put it back in drive the car wouldnt move , Pedal hard as a rock also . I let brakes cool down for a few hours started it up and then brakes released and i could move the car. With all that in mind I can actually just start the car cold and let it idle until its up to temp. and it will do the same ,brakes will lock up ??? Im all ears for suggestions , Thanks for any comments in advance !!
Thank you for the info LeoP, I will try that tomarrow . Phil
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You could make or buy some slotted washers / shims, loosen the master bolts and slide the spacers in. Even some starter shims would work just as a test.
Great tech tip thanks for the comment !! Phil
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If the car had been braking fine for a while, then I doubt it's the booster pin clearance. I would jack the car up and find which wheel/s are locking up.
I had an issue with the pin due to the manufacturer sending the wrong pin. Their name has the word "brake" in it. They also didn't stand by their product and thus have never did business with them again. Water under the bridge, but stated for completeness to the original posters question.
I'm not so sure a "pin length" issue would necessarily manifest itself by just starting the car (letting it come to operating temp) or over time when driving the vehicle. I feel the issue would exist even when the car was sitting idle and cold.
You said that you replaced 3 lines. That is good.
Any possible issues with some heat source being too close to any of the lines?
Any change when disconnecting the vacuum source?
Defective booster or possible damaged during installation? The wrong pin could do this. This would be my guess.
Obviously, don't drive it like this guy did.
I'm not so sure a "pin length" issue would necessarily manifest itself by just starting the car (letting it come to operating temp) or over time when driving the vehicle. I feel the issue would exist even when the car was sitting idle and cold.
You said that you replaced 3 lines. That is good.
Any possible issues with some heat source being too close to any of the lines?
Any change when disconnecting the vacuum source?
Defective booster or possible damaged during installation? The wrong pin could do this. This would be my guess.
Obviously, don't drive it like this guy did.
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