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wreckerguy85

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
so, I have been working on doing a full disc brake swap on a 1972 base car that was formally all drum brakes. I have completely swapped everything out for new from the MC to the lines and I cannot get brakes. I have adjusted the pedal out and in with no change. All the parts were brand new, and I have done my best to follow all instructions. I just can't figure this out no matter what I do the pedal stays hard and when you bleed them out it has no pressure whatsoever. if anyone has any ideas what I could be doing wrong, please let me know I am pulling my hair out at this point.
 
Proportional valve shifted off center? Is your brake safety warning light on? Bleed each wheel with a harbor freight hand operated vacuum pump.
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Proportional valve shifted off center? Is your brake safety warning light on? Bleed each wheel with a harbor freight hand operated vacuum pump.
Prop. Valve is brand new as well and as far as I can tell it's not off center I have tried it both ways from the pv to a "t" then to each caliper that didn't work so I have since run independent lines to both calipers out of the pv it feels like the whole travel on the pedal is about 2" it doesn't move much at all and is much harder than any pedal I have ever pressed
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Check pin length that goes behind booster or MC, if you upgraded either.
Checked and adjusted both all of this was purchased together new from one of the big proformence sites it was all recommended to work together the said there should be less than 1/4 in between the booster rod and the mc
 
I had a similar problem. Make sure you are using the littler screw in tool to keep the shuttle valve centered while bleeding.

Also, you will need to size the correct MC to your system. I was using a 7/8" bore MC and the pedal would never get stiff.... I would then move to a 1 1/8" bore MC and now my pedal is stiff.

Bench bleeding is important. Just set it up in your bench vise, hook up hoses, fill up the reservoir with fluid and push on the cylinder til no more air.

Also, behind the MC next to the booster you might have a stud that pushes into the MC, it needs to be the correct length, in general you want full travel of the MC and full travel of the pedal that isn't impeded by the floor.
 
The ebrake doesn't actually work the pedal assembly is broken so it's not hooked up at all
Again, the Ebrake adjustment affects the operation with some disc brake systems. You need to see how this applies to yours.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I had a similar problem. Make sure you are using the littler screw in tool to keep the shuttle valve centered while bleeding.

Also, you will need to size the correct MC to your system. I was using a 7/8" bore MC and the pedal would never get stiff.... I would then move to a 1 1/8" bore MC and now my pedal is stiff.

Bench bleeding is important. Just set it up in your bench vise, hook up hoses, fill up the reservoir with fluid and push on the cylinder til no more air.

Also, behind the MC next to the booster you might have a stud that pushes into the MC, it needs to be the correct length, in general you want full travel of the MC and full travel of the pedal that isn't impeded by the floor.
I honestly think the MC is too small I have tried every adjustment possible I have bench bled it with the included hoses and have done it twice more on the car the pedal is always super hard engine running or off and it just has no pressure hardly. My pv does not have any kind of adjustment on it just the 3 connections the electrical connection and the bolt holes so I'm not sure what you mean by the tool for the shuttle valve there isn't anyway that I know of to hold it centered
 
Hook up the electrical connection to your brake dash light, use an ohm meter, or a test light to see if that connection is grounded. If it is, the PV is off center and will block fluid flow to the front or back lines. This is a safety feature incase you have a leak. They make a tool to hold it centered while you bleed the brakes.
 
If it is off center, you will need to pull both end fittings off and push the shuttle to the center, insert the tool, reassemble lines, then bleed.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Hook up the electrical connection to your brake dash light, use an ohm meter, or a test light to see if that connection is grounded. If it is, the PV is off center and will block fluid flow to the front or back lines. This is a safety feature incase you have a leak. They make a tool to hold it centered while you bleed the brakes.
I will definitely check this out thank you
 
Dear WreckerGuy85, I have recently Updated My Team Chevelle Rear Disc Conversion Post. Please Look at this Post as is May Help You Solve Your Problem especially with Master Cylinder Bore Sizes. I do agree with Old Cutlass that Your Parking Brake needs to be working and Adjusted Properly for Your Brake Pedal to Work Correctly. On this Post there are 2 You Tube Videos showing how the Cadillac Seville Eldorado Rear Disc Brake Works so You can Fix Your E Brake. The First Video Below start at 7 Minutes (Do Not Take You New Caliper Apart) just watch how the E Brake Adjustment is Made on the Bench. I Wish You Much Success. Sincerely Gary 396
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/1...velle-rear-disc-brake-conversion-or-11-inch-rear-brake-drum-conversion.1163204/

Excellent #1 You Tube Cadillac Seville Eldorado Rear Brake Adjustment " No Removal of Adjustment Lever"

Excellent #2 You Tube Cadillac Seville Eldorado "Rear Brake Lever Adjustment Lever Removal"

Excellent #3 CPP Video Cadillac Seville Rear Brake "See 6.20 Minute New Style 12 Point Adjustment Lever"


You Tube Old Master Brake Cadillac Seville Eldorado Rear Disc Brake Installation Video

You Tube Video On Difficult Cadillac Seville Eldorado Rear Disc Park Brake Adjustment for 1970 Chevelle
Start at 7 Minutes in Video to Adjust New Caliper. Do Not Take Your New Caliper Apart.

 
These things are almost plug and play, so did you buy them new? I would check my entire system for leaks on the new brake lines, its hard to tell with brake fluid. You arent getting enough pressure to close the calipers for some reason.
 
Get a brake pressure gauge and screw it into your calipers to see what fluid pressure you are getting to the caliper. If your pressure is correct then it has nothing to do with the master cylinder or brake light switch. You are generally looking for about 1550 to 1600 psi. With a pressure gauge it should be an easy diagnosis.

 
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