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Need advise on '66 Chevelle

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1966 300 deluxe chevelle sedan 66
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Dunagh

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I found a '66 Chevelle listed on the webs. I called the guy selling the car and says it's a 300 Deluxe, has a 427, is straight, and as far as he knows has no rust except for one spot that has some bubbling under the paint. He's asking 25k so if the ad is legit, is that an acceptable price? I have always wanted to own one of these boxier Chevelles so I'm really hoping it's legit.

Thanks for the help.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
427L88 said:
Only one way to know, and its not by asking blindly on a forum. GATHER DATA! Go check it out. 25K seems low.
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I have been looking around for other '66s for sale and the prices vary wildly and most listings are for the SS variant, thus why I am asking for external validation with the 300 Deluxe. I feel it's worth it but I'm no car expert, just an enthusiast.

I do plan on viewing the car as it's only 5 hours away, if it's still "available".
 
#4 ·
The hardtops will normally bring more $$$ than a sedan (300) do you have any pictures?
 
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#7 ·
if its not a rust bucket,.you like the car and it runs decent. I'd buy it. Try finding a decent roller, add in a big block, 4 speed, interior etc, unless you do everything yourself and find a lot of great deals you would probably spend more than 25k. jim
 
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#10 ·
Check the body very carefully for rust. Most likely is lower fenders, quarter wheel arches, below rear window, door lower corners, cowl. Get it up on ramps so you can look underneath. Check frame and floor pan for rust and/or holes or damage. Also look for leaks or evidence of such. Body/rust repair is by far the most expensive aspect of classics. Body &paint could cost more than the car. Most look good in pictures. In person inspection tells the tail.
Carefull, seems priced too cheap to me.
 
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#11 ·
blm said:
Check the body very carefully for rust. Most likely is lower fenders, quarter wheel arches, below rear window, door lower corners, cowl. Get it up on ramps so you can look underneath. Check frame and floor pan for rust and/or holes or damage. Also look for leaks or evidence of such. Body/rust repair is by far the most expensive aspect of classics. Body &paint could cost more than the car. Most look good in pictures. In person inspection tells the tail.
Carefull, seems priced too cheap to me.
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X4!

The bubbling is worrisome. This occurs sometimes on a quick slap of filler without proper metal prep. If that's the case, the whole bottom could be (maybe not) slathered with Bondo.

Painted cars are a crap shoot. Like Gump, "you never know what you're gonna get".
 
#13 ·
If it's as nice as the pictures, I'd be all over it if I were in the market. Nowadays a post is not bringing the value down, in fact with a big clock and a 4 speed it increases the value for some.
 
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#14 ·
Post cars are very cool. Stronger for twisting really. Take a magnet and check for bondo etc. Yes, if it's solid, it's worth the $25k especially with the big block and 4 speed.
 
#15 ·
123pugsy said:
X4!

The bubbling is worrisome. This occurs sometimes on a quick slap of filler without proper metal prep. If that's the case, the whole bottom could be (maybe not) slathered with Bondo.

Painted cars are a crap shoot. Like Gump, "you never know what you're gonna get".
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Pugsy is correct. Luckily, black makes it really easy to spot the bad body work or trouble areas. You'll know right away when you see the car in person.
 
#16 ·
Pete 67 said:
Pugsy is correct. Luckily, black makes it really easy to spot the bad body work or trouble areas. You'll know right away when you see the car in person.
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This right here^^^^. Go see it in person and black shows all so you will know within the first 5 min of being there if it is worth it or not.
 
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