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I am in the exact same scenario on my 66. 1 inch lower in the rear from umi and 1 inch lower on the front. It looks like a monster truck up front. Well not that bad but it is stock height or a little higher and I was not exactly thrilled when I put it on the ground. Contacted umi, which have been very responsive with all my questions. They said u can cut 4” at a time to lower it 1\2 inch at a time. Max of 1 coil(16 inches) can be cut. I asked him if I was further off getting the 2 inch drop spring , but in the same breath tried to get it out of him to see if the 1 inch and 2 inch are the same spring, just cut shorter. His response was to just cut the spring I already had. Haven’t done it yet. But I’m going to. Sort of just going to work with what i got and if I can’t get it right or ride quality suffers, than I’ll make a decision. I also sent him a video of the spring installed correctly and me taking it out. I also loosened all the a-arms and bounced on the front a bunch and had 2 adults sit on front end to simulate more weight. I had the motor in at the time of this picture. It’s for sure sitting too high in front as the stance I wanted was just a bit lower, nothing extreme. The rear is right where I want it.
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They said u can cut 4” at a time to lower it 1\2 inch at a time. Max of 1 coil (16 inches) can be cut.
Probably a pretty close rule of thumb for only the front springs.
IMO you could lose easily an inch, and even that might not be enough. The thing is - it's just like cutting hair - you can't put it back on, so go easy.
 
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Discussion starter · #44 ·
I agree, stick with cutting. Video here said:
A) pigtail on bottom / flat end of spring on top on workbench
B) let’s say height of new spring off car is 15 1/4, and I want a 2” drop @ wheelwell
C) using a tape measure, run it around the spring top until top of spring is 14 3/4 (1 inch) & cut there…will = 2” drop @ wheelwell …
D) also be more work, but I could go 1/2 increments & check each on car.

I don’t know if there is “some compression” down on a new Spring so I might set it 1/2” hi for “spring settling…..yes / no? Thnx!
 
Jacques - go back and read my post #22.
Your UMI springs are WAY wrong for your application. Something is definitely amiss with them. You are going to have to remove multiple full coils to drop your car down. Not good at all - you'll be so not happy with the ride.

I'd guess UMI wants you to cut their spring because they are not returnable once you cut them. I don't know - maybe they are not returnable anyway.
 
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How about this set of FRONT SPRINGS ! I built a 1970 Sta. Wgn. It was a 307-- T-350. with A/C... It is now a 468 B.B. & 700R4...... What springs should I have for a Factory Stock Ride Height ? ? It has the Factory Height as per the G.M. Ride height numbers from the book. The front springs in my 468 / 700R4 wagon are for a ( 1970 350 4V- Nomad S. Wgn. with F. A/C. / P.S / P.D.Brks--2 Seat Wgn. NO roof rack-- NO Body side trim, NO carpet in load area ) Its ALL about options for the proper spring rate and NOTHING ELSE when it leaves the plant.
Its all about WEIGHT....... ??? Bench, Buckets, A/C ..NO A/C.. Cloth, / Vinyl.. Carpet. rubber mat... 13680 El Caminos bodys ( Top Shelf Body ) had over a 126 Lbs. of insulation more than the lower class Bodys.
YES, A computer PICKED the springs for G.M. " A " bodys. It was and still is about the " WEIGHT " of the finished product when it leaves the Assmb. plant. Do not forget,,,,,,,,, The correct tires are " PART " of your suspension !
 
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I am VERY curious how your "mechanic" is going to cut the spring without removing it.

If you can't do it yourself I'd be looking for someone else to work on your car.
 
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Discussion starter · #48 ·
Yep, the ‘gasser’ result unacceptable…(plus they argued with me ‘just fine’…whoa…). I drove it to storage and made appt with the guy who installed my 350….plus I dug deeper on the front springs…w/ local springs Co highly respected/referral from friend 40 yrs building cars in his ‘workshop….’those #s incorrect’, I bot a front set from him & hopeful ‘work’….
NOW if I can find an oil pan for a Chev 350…
 
Good to hear you are changing the springs. If a manufacturer told me to cut their springs to fit the height I want, they would get them back, in person, and their behind would be VERY sore. What a load of crap, never neard of anything like this from a manufacturer before.
 
Timely topic for me - my recently acquired 68 Chevelle convertable has always seemed to ride a bit high in front and I'm considering new springs. I've been trying to figure out a proper height (i.e. fender rim/edge above tire thread) and would appreciate any suggestions or pictures.
 
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Back in the day I had the full globalwest negative roll kit and ended up cutting the fronts. Theirs sat too high even though they were supposed to be lower. The car handled amazing didn’t even know they were cut.
 
Timely topic for me - my recently acquired 68 Chevelle convertable has always seemed to ride a bit high in front and I'm considering new springs. I've been trying to figure out a proper height (i.e. fender rim/edge above tire thread) and would appreciate any suggestions or pictures.
From all the comments on this thread, I think you should try cutting what you have instead of buying some and then cutting them.
 
Judging by the ride height of my UMI springs, I find it hard to believe that the fender lip is 6” above the tire with the springs correctly installed. (Assuming they are the correct spring for the application). What’s the part number?

Ensure springs are properly seated. Get under the car with a flashlight and look up into the spring pockets.
 
Judging by the ride height of my UMI springs, I find it hard to believe that the fender lip is 6” above the tire with the springs correctly installed. (Assuming they are the correct spring for the application). What’s the part number?

Ensure springs are properly seated. Get under the car with a flashlight and look up into the spring pockets.
It's gone to 4" at last count if I remember reading correctly.
 
It's gone to 4" at last count if I remember reading correctly.
Lol. Guess I missed that. I’m just saying what’s more likely? A company like UMI with a super solid reputation being 4-6 inches off on ride height and never hearing about it on forums or installation error on behalf of a mechanic who likely just slammed the springs into the frame and tightened the ball joints to get it out the door and on to the next job?
 
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I have cut coils on the car before,not a Chevelle,I'll have to look at mine sometime. I do not like cut springs, but this was for a friend,so we did it. It was at least 15 years ago maybe longer so the specifics are fuzzy. But I think all we did was let as much tension off the spring as we could,don't remember if we separated a ball joint and cut it with a cut off wheel on a die grinder.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
I spoke to a friend who has refurbished many cars....he said ‘go to local spring shop’ (which I forgot about!)...they dialed-in to order-up ‘68 Velle front springs & picked-up today....now off to the mechanic that originally installed my 350...just going to toss the front UMIs & that $ torched. I took this avenue because of all the feedback I got that ‘cutting will stiffen the ride’ significantly...made sense & no I didn’t want that either. With the new shocks, I’m hopin’.........I’ll post results.
 
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