So I may have just agreed to purchase my first Chevelle, 1968 with a 454 engine. I'm going to look at it this weekend before I finalize the deal. There is a very faint tapping noise coming from the driver's side, that I was told is a tapping lifter, although I wasn't really able to make out the noise out in the video. What are some possible causes and would this be enough to not buy the car if everything else is good?
Tapping Lifter?
Knight1989
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So I may have just agreed to purchase my first Chevelle, 1968 with a 454 engine. I'm going to look at it this weekend before I finalize the deal. There is a very faint tapping noise coming from the driver's side, that I was told is a tapping lifter, although I wasn't really able to make out the noise out in the video. What are some possible causes and would this be enough to not buy the car if everything else is good?
If it is a flat tappet cam it shouldn't if it is adjusted correctly. One cause could be cam wear which is not a good thing or it is just simply needs adjustment. If it is a roller cam some roller lifters do make a tapping sound. Ask what make was used. If it is a solid lifter cam either flat tappet or roller it's normal.. However you should go in person or hire a pro to check it out. Post your location and maybe someone from here can join you. Can you post the link to the video?
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Could also be a loose exhaust manifold bolt.
Guy
Guy
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It's coming from a dealer so they dont know what cam was installed in it previously. Based on the fact its a modified engine, I'm going to assume it's a roller cam, but thats a pure guess. I am going in person,but having to all the leg work prior to since its so far away and that will be the final verification before I purchase it.
So my first question is how handy are you with engine, interior, electrical, body and paint work. On the good side the guy is certainly not hiding anything from you but he is also not completely telling you the whole truth either. That popping with that loud lifter could certainly be caused by losing a cam lobe but don't panic quite yet. Torque is not an issue but its certainly misfiring and air is getting into the exhaust aso gaskets are leaking at a minimum causing that popping. Don't by the ethanol story either. I think maybe at some time in its life it was a AC car with the side interior dash vents but the center is blocked off which confuses me. The firewall has been modified somehow where the AC firewall evaporator housing would be located and the heater core is just an in and out with a hose in between. Most things don't work on the car correctly. Although it has some rust overall really not that bad considering the car is 52 years old. A full strip with steel works is required at a minimal but this is what is on the street at this time for under 25k. The back rear panel says its a Malibu with the Chevelle emblem however I do not think anyone is telling you its a SS. If they do, 68 has a 138 on the VIN and there is no discussion there. This is the hard part which is how do we advise you without insulting a car that you like which BTW no one here wants to do. If you will need to hire someone to do a decent job on the body and paint you are looking at 20k at the cheapest areas in the county, up north I wouldn't even guess but surely north of 50k. Now I said decent and not show. So now you have to decide if you are willing to work hard, get really dirty and learn a lot about making her yours or if just buying a car in better shape so you can jump in a drive it is more what you want. Think hard before you jump into a car needing a lot of work these days. Parts and labor are very expensive now so final value versus cost to finish is also an important factor to consider. Best of luck with your decisions. Feel free to ask away with questions, that's what we do best here, we answer them.
Edit: the center AC vent is there so it was a factory AC car and the AC controls are also present so you can make it factory again, a very desirable option these days. That explains the firewall work that I mentioned
Bill
Edit: the center AC vent is there so it was a factory AC car and the AC controls are also present so you can make it factory again, a very desirable option these days. That explains the firewall work that I mentioned
Bill
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Thank you the honesty while also not talking down, you'd be surprised at how fine of a line that can be. I defiantly know that I'm getting into a project. I don't know much, but am eager to learn and think I have some good resources that will help me out. I have friends that can help with the body work and I know the paint is going to set me back. I think I'm being realistic with what the car is going to take financially but I am also willing to be patient and do it right. The problem is, if I want something perfect, its well out of my price range and most cars that are in my price range are outside of my skill to work on. I think this is a good median. I believe the car is within my potential, but I'm trying to not be delusional either. I already noticed most of the issues you pointed out, and am glad you didnt spot anymore that I hadnt. Glad my gut feeling about the rust was inline with yours as well.
I know its hard to diagnose the "tapping" based on a video, but it seems while it could be a sign of something serious it most likely isnt a show stopper but needs to be investigated more ASAP
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I edited my reply to say not talking down. Sorry little bit of alcohol tonight. I really do appreciate your response
You are talking to someone that aside from machine work I did everything from stem to stern and everything in between. Although I have years experience I am still a computer guy that just took his time. See for your self. BTW I paid 12k for her and turned down 100k last year. Firm believer if you want it bad enough you will get it.
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Hi, I’ve watched a few of the videos from these guys at Maple Motors and the seem to really go around and point out a lot of the bad and trouble spots on their cars so I don’t think they are trying to hide anything, but a look in person is still the best
829 W Main St, Hendersonville, TN 37075
829 W Main St, Hendersonville, TN 37075
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If I was a dealership selling this car, I'd fix the speedo, the gas guage, wiper switch, stereo, lifter noise and give it a tune up before listing. As a buyer, I'd be using all of those short comings including the low oil pressure to get that price closer to 18K. Last week I saw a really nice dark green '69 for sale ($23,000 on CL), but here on the west coast prices could very well be different than Tennessee. If you decide to buy it, the guys here will certainly give you all the help you need!
If an engine has run on regular oil for many miles is it ok to switch to synthetic like that?
I've heard it isn't
I'm not an engine builder but I've had cars with flat tappet cams go 10's upon 10's of thousands of miles with a little lifter clatter . They seemed to run fine and as mentioned a small header gasket leak can sound Just like a lifter. Check it out
15 lbs of oil pressure isn't bad at all . If the things idling under 1k which it is then 15 lbs is fine .
WOE !!! Man what a car ! 👍😎
That sure was a solid maneuver on your part payin 12 g's for that!!
Agree 100%.
The lifter noise could be no big deal, or the lifter bores could be worn out, and need to be machined and bushed back to size. Worn lifter bores would not only cause the lifters to be noisy, they would also cause the oil pressure to drop.
There's also the possibility of a crack in the block, where the oil galley feeds the lifter bores, reducing the oil flow to the lifters (causing hydr lifters to be noisy), and it would also reduce oil pressure.
It may be nothing, or you may be looking at a $2,000 repair.
When negotiating price, assume the worst.
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You may be right, but I don't like it. I've had my share of old cars over the years and the only time I saw 15lbs of oil pressure the motor was wore out. I like seeing 35+ lbs warm at idle.
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