Team Chevelle banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

CPP "morning sickness"

Jump to Latest
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Fisherguy

· Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
My 69 SS was restored to 'stock' condition including the manual steering box it came with. I hated it, not so much the tough steering but the 6 turns lock to lock really sucked.

So I put in a full CPP kit with pump, brackets, steering box, hoses etc. I like it so far but when I first start it up I have no PS. The CPP guy said to just rev it a few times to get it going which does work eventually but I don't think that's something I should have to do with a brand new kit; what's gonna happen later, is it going to get worse?

Anyone else had this issue with the CPP kit?
I've told them to send me what I need to correct the issue, will see what they say.
Thx
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#4 · (Edited)
Raise the front off the ground and turn the wheel a bunch of times lock to lock and hold it a second at lock. Sounds like air in the system. Then check for leaks that could indicate a place of air intrusion.

EDIT...Learn something new every day. Raise the car and turn lock to lock with the engine off so the bubbles don't get beaten into a froth. Then you can do the engine on bleed if you like. The engine on bleed is to induce high pressures that may expose leak that could suck air into the system.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Al.
SEE post 6.
www.chevelles.com

Power steering bleed -70

Hi Guys, I followed the air bleed process in the various books and on this site and the wheel is still to really tough to turn and the pump is not responding. The pump is stock, freshly rebuilt, stock hoses, rebuilt stock, steering gear box......raised the car and the turning was of course much...
www.chevelles.com www.chevelles.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: DUTCH MAX HEADWORK
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
DUTCH MAX HEADWORK said:
Raise the front off the ground and turn the wheel a bunch of times lock to lock and hold it a second at lock. Sounds like air in the system. Then check for leaks that could indicate a place of air intrusion.

EDIT...Learn something new every day. Raise the car and turn lock to lock with the engine off so the bubbles don't get beaten into a froth. Then you can do the engine on bleed if you like. The engine on bleed is to induce high pressures that may expose leak that could suck air into the system.
Click to expand...
I bled everything when I installed it this past spring, and if that was the problem it would be acting up all the time wouldn't it, not just when it's first started up?
I'll try bleeding it again but the guy at CPP said it was a sticking valve.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#7 ·
Fisherguy said:
I bled everything when I installed it this past spring, and if that was the problem it would be acting up all the time wouldn't it, not just when it's first started up?
I'll try bleeding it again but the guy at CPP said it was a sticking valve.
Click to expand...
Is the CCP tech going to send you a new valve assembly? Did he say what valve he suspects?

The only valve on the pump is the flow/ pressure control valve assembly. If you had access to another, I would just unscrew the valve from the pressure port and replace it to see if it cured the problem. About the only other thing I can see screwing up in the pump is the vanes not extending into the pump cavity from the centrifugal force as required until the unit built up some heat. The only way to confirm this would be with a pressure gauge. Worse case scenario, buy a new pump from anyone but CCP.
Image


There's a check valve installed under the inverted flair connector (50) on the inlet side of the steering box.

Image


Image


The only other valve is the spool valve. If the issue is in the box, they should just send you a new box.

Do you see any evidence of fluid leakage anywhere?

In the mornings when you have this issue, check to see if there are bubbles in the reservoir or if it looks frothy. This would indicate air in the system that could come in through a seal or hose connection as pressure is released from the system. The seals are good at holding oil from escaping, but not as good at keeping air from passing into the system when the pressure is receding. That's why I suggested bleeding with one second stops against the stops. Hopefully to induce leakage at a bad seal. In normal bleeding, you don't pause at the stops.

I would work with CCP and see if the issue can be remedied through them. Hopefully, they are responsive.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
I'm not seeing any leaks anywhere.

When I questioned CPP about the reviews I've read on their steering box where people say they can't turn the wheels without having the car moving they told me I wouldn't have that problem if I used their CPP pump so I'm reluctant to try another pump from someone else and if the problem IS the pump I'm hoping they'll send a new one.

I bled it again today, will see how it is tomorrow.

I'm waiting to hear back from them to see what they do.
Thanks for your help. (y)
 
#9 ·
>>> the guy at CPP said it was a sticking valve.
Click to expand...
\yeah, their phones people will say anything to get you off their phones. As said, ask him what's the name of that valve. be ready for the torrent of BS that comes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RatchetRay
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Tom Mobley said:
\yeah, their phones people will say anything to get you off their phones. As said, ask him what's the name of that valve. be ready for the torrent of BS that comes.
Click to expand...
He said it was a bad check valve. I've been dealing with the same guy for a while, seems to know his stuff. They're going to send me either a new valve or a new pump but being up in Canada I went through a 3rd party which ads a wrinkle to things.

Unfortunately for those of us north of the border CPP is like OPG, Ground Up and all the rest of the reproduction parts places in the US, they ship to the USA at reasonable costs but the couriers charge ridiculous fees to ship across the border. I had $2k US in my shopping cart at one of the repro sites, shipping here was ANOTHER $2k US, then convert to Cdn it just gets stupid.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
So two months later I finally got this in the mail yesterday, not even with any instructions included.

Does anyone else thing it's pretty bad CPP would send a customer a bunch of parts to repair their faulty product? Seems like BS to me. And what happens if the customer makes a mistake putting it together, then what??

Sent the guy an email saying that, he said he "didn't appreciate my tone". :eek:
Pathetic IMO...
Image
 
#14 ·
Well I don’t know about you but after the “”don’t like your tone” comment I’d be looking to return the whole thing and demand a refund. I would not hesitate to inform them you would be sure to relate your experience on every social media platform that would give a hoot.
Also if you make a mistake they will most likely was their hands of the deal.
 
#16 ·
Fisherguy said:
So two months later I finally got this in the mail yesterday, not even with any instructions included.

Does anyone else thing it's pretty bad CPP would send a customer a bunch of parts to repair their faulty product? Seems like BS to me. And what happens if the customer makes a mistake putting it together, then what??

Sent the guy an email saying that, he said he "didn't appreciate my tone". :eek:
Pathetic IMO... View attachment 727619
Click to expand...
Interestingly enough, i have the same issue with the Tom's Classics kit on my '55. (i really think its still a CPP kit) in the summer it seems like i just had to do a quick back and forth with the wheel after starting it, and the power steering would kick in. As it has gotten colder, seems like it takes longer for it to kick in.

Let me know the outcome with the new pump if you could. This doesnt bother me tons, but i know its not right. What did bother me was a quick ratio manual box, with a tiny steering wheel. any kind of assist i get is welcome....lol
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
70montee said:
Interestingly enough, i have the same issue with the Tom's Classics kit on my '55. (i really think its still a CPP kit) in the summer it seems like i just had to do a quick back and forth with the wheel after starting it, and the power steering would kick in. As it has gotten colder, seems like it takes longer for it to kick in.

Let me know the outcome with the new pump if you could. This doesnt bother me tons, but i know its not right. What did bother me was a quick ratio manual box, with a tiny steering wheel. any kind of assist i get is welcome....lol
Click to expand...

Sounds the same eh?

My car is off the road for the winter, will get to the pump at some point over the winter.

Have been in contact with someone else at CPP. was told what I was sent is their policy which still seems like BS to me.
Was told a supervisor would be in touch but that was a couple days ago...
Not holding my breath, still seems like a crappy way to do business.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
About this Discussion
16 Replies
9 Participants
Last post:
Fisherguy
Team Chevelle
posts
5.3M
members
131K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet Chevelle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restorations, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Performance Engine Chevelle Tech Body Shop