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lucifershammer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Yes, I've searched the forum and also been lookin' at the Google. I also realize products change over time, so I'm asking a question that has been asked here in the past. :)

I'm looking for recommendations for reasonably priced (i.e. not multiple thousands of dollars) engine test stands.

Only requirements are that I can use it with SB Chevy, BB Chevy and SB Ford engines. Obviously other engines would be good too, but those are the three I would need to be able to use it with.

Any thoughts/ideas/recommendations on something that won't break the bank?

First use case will be a BB Chevy before I drop it into my Z28. Second use case will be a BB Chevy that has an oil pan leak I want to pull, fix and test for leaks before I drop it back in. Third use case will be to break in a SB Ford and check for leaks before we drop it in.

Thanks!
 
have a friend that has this one and thinks it is great.

Another has the summit house brand one for a close price and he likes it just fine.
I had the jegs version before I left OH but back when I got it they where like $350 new. I know several guys with welders who built their own and that is my plan if ever need a test or break in stand again.
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
have a friend that has this one and thinks it is great.

Another has the summit house brand one for a close price and he likes it just fine.
I had the jegs version before I left OH but back when I got it they where like $350 new. I know several guys with welders who built their own and that is my plan if ever need a test or break in stand again.
Thanks! I don't have a welder, maybe this is my opportunity, though with the cost of steel right now, the steel and parts alone are quite expensive!

I like the looks of the one you posted better than the Summit one for a few reasons: 1) you can get a hoist under it and 2) the rear engine mount area looks like it leaves more room for headers to pass through.
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
You can make something up using an engine dolly 👍
Yeah, I was thinking about using one of my engine cradles and bolting it to a more solid base.

Problem is the Small Block Fords - I need to be able to run them with a bellhousing attached as that is where the starter mounts, and the cradle wouldn't allow that.

Edit: I was just looking at one online and my wife came in and said, "Whatcha lookin' at?" I told her engine stands where I can test run our engines before we put them in the cars. She asked how much, I said about a grand, and she said, eh, buy it, we only live once and can't take it with us. (y) Still undecided, but glad to know she is all for it...
 
Yeah, I was thinking about using one of my engine cradles and bolting it to a more solid base.

Problem is the Small Block Fords - I need to be able to run them with a bellhousing attached as that is where the starter mounts, and the cradle wouldn't allow that.

Edit: I was just looking at one online and my wife came in and said, "Whatcha lookin' at?" I told her engine stands where I can test run our engines before we put them in the cars. She asked how much, I said about a grand, and she said, eh, buy it, we only live once and can't take it with us. (y) Still undecided, but glad to know she is all for it...
Keep her. Lol
 
I used my cherry picker as a base and built 3 supports, 2 side and one rear, that attach with bolts. Drilled and tapped my picker legs. Made a quick radiator standoff and mounted the gauges to a mini-dash up on the stanchion. Works great and the boom will shorten up enough to set into place off the engine rotisserie. I'm severely cramped for space so this allows me to dismantle and store in a box in the attic.
 
If you lived closer (in Florida) I could get you the steel at cost from one of my clients (where I buy my steel). Steel for that setup wouldn't cost more than $200. Wheels another $75.

I build all my own stuff out of steel and weld. I also have a band saw, plasma cutter and the works, so if you don't have that, you might be better buying it already done (unless you want to spend the time doing it yourself).
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I'm only in Florida part time right now, my shop is still up here. I don't have all the welding/cutting/etc. equipment either (and I suspect my welding skills would be laughable right now. :) ). I've been considering getting it, but was thinking I would wait until I relocate my shop in the next couple years (still taking my time hunting for a good one.)

I did find this one that looks pretty interesting:


After I add up all the shipping costs for the various ones I see out there, they are all roughly in the same range...
 
It looks good, but the problem I have (personally) is when I see something so easy to build to spend the money buying it, but I understand your issue, so buying it is best at this point.

I like that one better than the first one though.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Those prices are crazy!! They want $719 just for an engine stand!!
I know, exactly. If I had the tools and materials to build my own, I would. I don't... Quick back of envelope math tells me it's at least 1/2 that in just materials, then I would have to find a way to fabricate it. Which I'm willing (and seriously considering) doing. Still exploring all options and seeing what makes the most sense in my current situation.
 
I would buy a dolly for small block Ford and another one for a big/small block Chevy,about $60 each. Weld some tubing on front that you can slide a radiator unto via some brackets. That is really all you need other than some spare gauges. Fun project. I like doing stuff like this as cheap as possible.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I would buy a dolly for small block Ford and another one for a big/small block Chevy,about $60 each. Weld some tubing on front that you can slide a radiator unto via some brackets. That is really all you need other than some spare gauges. Fun project. I like doing stuff like this as cheap as possible.
See post #5 above. I am considering doing that, but have to find a way to get a dolly/cradle that allows me to attach a bellhousing at the same time for the small block Ford. I haven't found one yet, as the dollys/cradles all connect to the engine mount and rear bellhousing bolts with the bellhousing removed. It would work fine for a SB/BB Chevy, but not for a SB Ford.
 
Thanks! I don't have a welder, maybe this is my opportunity, though with the cost of steel right now, the steel and parts alone are quite expensive!

I like the looks of the one you posted better than the Summit one for a few reasons: 1) you can get a hoist under it and 2) the rear engine mount area looks like it leaves more room for headers to pass through.
that is the nice thing about that stand it is easier to fit exhaust nothing really in the way with the cluster off to the side.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
BTW - I have found after a little research that folks say one of the best radiators to use on these setups is a flathead Ford radiator. They have 2 inlets (one each side) and 2 outlets (1 each side.) This allows you to use the two you need and block the other two, so if you are gonna use the stand to test many different types of engines, apparently this makes life easier.

714366
 
I just built a run stand out of unistrut from Home Depot. I used a ball valve to regulate water flow from the garden hose and marked how much it was open for 160*, so I didn't need a radiator, hoses etc, and just emptied it right on the driveway.. Flushed out the engine real nice LOL.

But honestly, I think the time/effort/cost to put an engine on a stand, hook up all the stuff, then disconnect all of it etc is better served just putting the engine in the car and being done with it. Only reason I did it is b/c I didnt have a vehicle for the engine at the time.

714380
 
I used my engine cradle and a old van radiator I borrowed+some old gauges I had, if you can solve the bellhousing for the Ford it works nice and is a cheap alternative. Im going to use it again and start 2 454’s.

 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I used my engine cradle and a old van radiator I borrowed+some old gauges I had, if you can solve the bellhousing for the Ford it works nice and is a cheap alternative. Im going to use it again and start 2 454’s.

I agree. The more I've been looking, the more I'm leaning to try to figure out how to do it with my existing cradles and see if I can solve the bellhousing issue for the Ford engines.
 
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