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Experts here, need your inputs on 1971 SS Chevelle Value

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#21 ·
Theres a rosary hanging off the rear view; its good, buy it already. :)

So the folks over at chevellestuff.com can do an "expert inspection" for you via phone video for a fee. Or simply do what I did, find someone well versed in Chevelle's and take them along with you. Cost me a dinner certificate for him and his wife.

PS, the prior owner of my car "had 3.55 gears installed".... yeah no, try 3.31. Common mistake on gear ratios, but this is why someone well versed in these cars would be key to have along.
 
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#22 ·
May be an after market dash. Need better pictures. At the very least it has been rechromed and restored. International symbols on dash controls? Remote sport mirror and accompanying interior door panel control absent. This was standard on 71 SS.

Are the SS emblems on the door panels in the correct location??

Check rag joint, this will tell you if it had a big block originally. If it had a big block, it would have a 12 bolt rearend and turbo 400 trans. Small block got the turb0 350 trans. Learn to identify each by pan bolt pattern. Not all SS for 71 received a 12 bolt rearend. SS has f41 sport suspension, so it will have a large front swaybar, boxed rear lower control arms and a rear sway bar.


The pictures are pretty weak, but I would start by looking at the left lower front fender and door area. Looks a little funky.

Get a bunch of pictures and will tear her down for you. A picture of the bottom of the hood so we can see if it's a repop or original. This one appears to have that repop bend to it which makes it difficult to set to fenders.

Learn more here...https://www.chevellestuff.net/1971/71ss.htm

If you are on the hunt, buy one of these testers and try it out on your personal vehicle to get the hang of it. With this I can tell you if a panel was repainted or if there's bondo in the panel. I can have the entire car checked in 5 minutes. Well worth the investment if you intend to purchase a classic car. https://smile.amazon.com/AMTAST-Thi...+gauge&qid=1558046784&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+thickness++tester,aps,200&sr=8-15

If money is issue, this one does a pretty good job too. https://smile.amazon.com/allsun-EM2...r+gauge&qid=1558047013&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+thickness++tester,aps,200&sr=8-4

If the body is solid, $25,00 asking price is pretty good even if it's not an true SS.
 
#23 ·
riverwabbit703 said:
Mechanic sold the engine is what i heard. Sigh. So 25K is good deal for SS without original motor?
Click to expand...
:cool: The car looks pretty shiny, is it the original color or original paint? Also you need to get a definitive answer on the engine. Track Down the mechanic and see if he recalls who got the numbers 454 -- the detective work could be well worth the effort.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Can you post a copy of the build sheet they sent you?

The work done and a claim of 56,000 miles with original paint don’t exactly go together.

Try to not talk yourself into buying the car before you see it. I have several friends that bought muscle cars with shiny paint that were priced under the market. They were all dogs with fleas, they couldn’t look past the paint and relatively low entry point to see obvious flaws and holes in the sellers story. This car may be a good deal, but it might not be either. I hope it turns out to be a nice car, but be willing to walk away if need be.

Steve R
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Steve R said:
Can you post a copy of the build sheet they sent you?

The work done and a claim of 56,000 miles with original paint don’t exactly go together.

Try to not talk yourself into buying the car before you see it. I have several friends that bought muscle cars with shiny paint that were priced under the market. They were all dogs with fleas, they couldn’t look past the paint and relatively low entry point to see obvious flaws and holes in the sellers story. This car may be a good deal, but it might not be either. I hope it turns out to be a nice car, but be willing to walk away if need be.

Steve R
Click to expand...
Here is the build sheet and protecto plate picture. It's aged so I couldn't get the all the numbers identified.
 

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
1966_L78 said:
Hmmm...

Make sure you know how to identify a true Chevrolet 12-bolt rearend (and not a BOP with 12 cover bolts, etc)...

He could be mistaken, but 3.23 gear ratio was NOT offered in the Chevy 12-bolt... and ALL SS454 cars will have the 12-bolt rearend originally...

But that shouldn't make it a deal-breaker, just another place for negotiation... You can always buy a 12-bolt later if you desire...
Click to expand...
Seller said he's uncle swapped the ring and pinion for 3.23.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
DUTCH MAX HEADWORK said:
May be an after market dash. Need better pictures. At the very least it has been rechromed and restored. International symbols on dash controls? Remote sport mirror and accompanying interior door panel control absent. This was standard on 71 SS.

Are the SS emblems on the door panels in the correct location??

Check rag joint, this will tell you if it had a big block originally. If it had a big block, it would have a 12 bolt rearend and turbo 400 trans. Small block got the turb0 350 trans. Learn to identify each by pan bolt pattern. Not all SS for 71 received a 12 bolt rearend. SS has f41 sport suspension, so it will have a large front swaybar, boxed rear lower control arms and a rear sway bar.


The pictures are pretty weak, but I would start by looking at the left lower front fender and door area. Looks a little funky.

Get a bunch of pictures and will tear her down for you. A picture of the bottom of the hood so we can see if it's a repop or original. This one appears to have that repop bend to it which makes it difficult to set to fenders.

Learn more here...https://www.chevellestuff.net/1971/71ss.htm

If you are on the hunt, buy one of these testers and try it out on your personal vehicle to get the hang of it. With this I can tell you if a panel was repainted or if there's bondo in the panel. I can have the entire car checked in 5 minutes. Well worth the investment if you intend to purchase a classic car. https://smile.amazon.com/AMTAST-Thi...+gauge&qid=1558046784&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+thickness++tester,aps,200&sr=8-15

If money is issue, this one does a pretty good job too. https://smile.amazon.com/allsun-EM2...r+gauge&qid=1558047013&s=gateway&sprefix=paint+thickness++tester,aps,200&sr=8-4

If the body is solid, $25,00 asking price is pretty good even if it's not an true SS.
Click to expand...
Does vin number and on fisher body tag suppose to match? It's different:
 

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#32 ·
riverwabbit703 said:
Here is the build sheet and protecto plate picture. It's aged so I couldn't get the all the numbers identified.
Click to expand...
Picture on left is trim tag which is located on the upper left side of the firewall in the engine compartment. Body sequence number should match the number in one of the boxes on the upper right of the build sheet.

Build sheet picture does not include the upper right portion of the build sheet. This area includes the body sequence number and the VIN number. It may not be on this build sheet, the upper right may be missing. So build sheet can't be linked to car. A full picture of the build sheet is needed to verify.

Trim tag sequence number will not match the VIN, so no issues there. They are most always different numbers.

Below is an example of a protecto plate.
 

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#33 ·
12stones said:
It doesn't look like it's there. That corner appears to be missing.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that’s what I thought.

The car should stand or fall based on its condition. The “documentation” means little to nothing. I’d be very careful and go over this car with a fine tooth comb.

Steve R
 
#34 ·
Steve R said:
Thanks, that’s what I thought.

The car should stand or fall based on its condition. The “documentation” means little to nothing. I’d be very careful and go over this car with a fine tooth comb.

Steve R
Click to expand...
I agree. Beyond that these cars are always "worth" what you are willing to pay. Even the big number cars, LS6, are they actually worth a lot? Yes, but who says one is worth $90k and one is worth $120k? The buyer who pays that amount. At least that's my opinion on it. I paid $24k for my 67 SS. I think I got a good deal, but that is my opinion. That 71 looks awesome. I hope everything goes good with it. If you buy it you know you have to post some new pictures of it on this thread right?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Steve R said:
Thanks, that’s what I thought.

The car should stand or fall based on its condition. The “documentation” means little to nothing. I’d be very careful and go over this car with a fine tooth comb.

Steve R
Click to expand...
It rained like crazy here so couldn't go see the car. For some reason car has been on sale close to month and a half and it has been sold. If it was true SS it good condition, I thought at 25K it'd would have been sold pretty fast. I'll try to get out there this week if not sold.
 
#37 ·
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#38 ·
Pioneer4x4 said:
Looks like it is the Headlight assembly that is low, not the hood high.
Click to expand...
Right side of hood edge rises as it gets closer to the windshield - I would say it's a hood issue - not the headlight ass'y. Would assume it would be a fairly easy fix(hinge issue?), but don't know for sure as I'm not a body guy.
P.S. After taking a second look at the pic, the headlight ass'y. does appear to be too low in relation to the hood, but that doesn't explain the gradual rise in the hood as it nears the windshield.
 
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