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Solid Roller Info for 496

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70ss496

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm currently running one of Harolds Ultradyne 288/296 Solid Flat Tappet cams. The specs are as follows for this cam:
Duration @ .050 255/263
Lobe Lift .3600/.3706
Lobe Separation 107

Seat Duration @.020 288/296
Gross Valve Lift .612/.630
Valve Lash (Hot) .026

I'm wanting to make some more power and am going to have the motor out of the car this winter, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a Solid Roller. My current combo is below:

496 CI BBC
4.310 Bore
Scat Internally bal. 4.25 4340 lightweight crank
Scat 6.385 H-Beam Rods
SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)
8" Internal Fluidampner
Ultradyne 288/296 F7, Solid FT
#206 Oval Port Closed Chambered Heads
-Had a bowl grind
-Heads were port matched to the intake
-Valves unshrouded
Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake
"Box Stock" Holley 950HP
Sumped stock tank, -10 line from rear to front into a Carter 172 GPH mechanical pump, -8 to Carb.
Hooker 1 7/8" Comp Headers
3" Exhaust into race-flow flowmasters dumped in front of axle
Stock GM 502 Crate motor water pump
March Billet Aluminum pulleys
Factory Fan w/clutch
Power Steering
Power Brakes

ATI Built TH400
Full manual valvebody
Continental 10" Converter(the best I can tell it flashes to about 4000)

12 Bolt, 4:10 gears
Completely stock 30 year old suspension
Air Bags are the only thing, 0 in left and 6.5 lbs in right
28x10.50 Stiff Sidewall

Best pass to date is in Sig.

My current plans are to put a Solid Roller in, and a Edelbrock RPM AirGap, and if money allows an 8 in converter along with a HR AntiRoll Bar. I've actually got a little money to play with this winter instead of having a baby last winter put the Chevelle on the back Burner.

Does anyone have any Cam Suggestions, that they would recommend, or maybe somebody good to call to order from. I'm not really worried about street driving that is limited to a maybe once a week to a cruise or something. I'm really wanting to get this car going faster, how much power difference can a person expect by going to a solid roller.

I'm new to the Solid Roller game, can someone tell me all the parts I'll end up needing to convert and what they might have spent changing over?

Sorry this is so long, but lastly, does anyone have anymore suggestions to make more power.

Thanks,

Matt
 
#2 ·
Can't do much for your cam recommendation but you should look into either Crower Severe Duty with their HPPO option or get some Isky Red Zones. They also have pin oiling but you can get 'em in a street version that doesn't squirt quite as much oil on the roller/cam point which helps keep oil pressure up at idle. Ping Mike Lewis (Wolfplace) for help on the Isky's, he's a great guy to deal with and can probably save you some $$$ on the Red Zones. Good luck, sounds like you have plans for a solid runner.
 
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#3 ·
70ss496 said:
I'm currently running one of Harolds Ultradyne 288/296 Solid Flat Tappet cams. The specs are as follows for this cam:
Duration @ .050 255/263
Lobe Lift .3600/.3706
Lobe Separation 107

Seat Duration @.020 288/296
Gross Valve Lift .612/.630
Valve Lash (Hot) .026

I'm wanting to make some more power and am going to have the motor out of the car this winter, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a Solid Roller. My current combo is below:

496 CI BBC
4.310 Bore
Scat Internally bal. 4.25 4340 lightweight crank
Scat 6.385 H-Beam Rods
SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)
8" Internal Fluidampner
Ultradyne 288/296 F7, Solid FT
#206 Oval Port Closed Chambered Heads
-Had a bowl grind
-Heads were port matched to the intake
-Valves unshrouded
Edelbrock Victor Jr Intake
"Box Stock" Holley 950HP
Sumped stock tank, -10 line from rear to front into a Carter 172 GPH mechanical pump, -8 to Carb.
Hooker 1 7/8" Comp Headers
3" Exhaust into race-flow flowmasters dumped in front of axle
Stock GM 502 Crate motor water pump
March Billet Aluminum pulleys
Factory Fan w/clutch
Power Steering
Power Brakes

ATI Built TH400
Full manual valvebody
Continental 10" Converter(the best I can tell it flashes to about 4000)

12 Bolt, 4:10 gears
Completely stock 30 year old suspension
Air Bags are the only thing, 0 in left and 6.5 lbs in right
28x10.50 Stiff Sidewall

Best pass to date is in Sig.

My current plans are to put a Solid Roller in, and a Edelbrock RPM AirGap, and if money allows an 8 in converter along with a HR AntiRoll Bar. I've actually got a little money to play with this winter instead of having a baby last winter put the Chevelle on the back Burner.

Does anyone have any Cam Suggestions, that they would recommend, or maybe somebody good to call to order from. I'm not really worried about street driving that is limited to a maybe once a week to a cruise or something. I'm really wanting to get this car going faster, how much power difference can a person expect by going to a solid roller.

I'm new to the Solid Roller game, can someone tell me all the parts I'll end up needing to convert and what they might have spent changing over?

Sorry this is so long, but lastly, does anyone have anymore suggestions to make more power.

Thanks,

Matt
Click to expand...

Matt,
To swap over to a solid roller you are looking at spending upwards of around 13 or $1400 in parts. I would suggest finding a set of Merlin aftermarket heads to feed your 496 inches. I think this would be your best bang for the buck and most power felt.
 
#4 ·
I would call Harold about the cam, but something in the .650-.680" lift range and ~255@.050 range on a 108-110 LSA would be what I would look at. Something like the Lunati 502A4lun, or 502A5lun. If you had an 8" converter you might go slightly bigger.

I agree with Gary 100% on the lifters. If you run a high volume oil pump, the "regular" Red Zones should be fine. For a stock volume pump I would definitely get the ones with the smaller oil holes.

Valve to piston clearance will have to be verified as well as new valve springs. I would not skimp on the springs as the cheaper roller springs are prone to breakage in my experience.

I would also replace the Fluidamper with an ATI Super Damper while I was at it.

Better heads (or more port work) would be the biggest bang for the buck as far as adding power. Do your ovals have 2.19 and 1.88 valves already? If not, they should. Aftermarket heads such as Brodix Race Rites would be killer, but you would have to have them milled a bunch to keep your compression up.

I once ran a 9.2:1 compression small (like .540" lift) flat tappet 468. We milled the heads to raise the compression to 11.5:1, put in a Lunati 50204 solid roller (great mid range bracket cam by the way!). Put on a 1150 Dominator and it was worth roughly 125-150Hp! It actually changed the converter stall from 4500 to 5600. Big jump IMO!

JMHO!
 
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#5 ·
I'm certainly no cam expert but I can tell you when my engine dyno'd along with a 468 with same UD solid roller , same engine builder , same CR and intake but with 781 factory heads cleaned up and I had Brodix BB-O with cnc chambers I made more power ...with smaller motor .....so based on your combo I would look at a good set of heads before the cam FWIW
 
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#6 ·
70ss496 said:
SRP Forged 5cc dome (with my heads works out to be around 11:1)
Click to expand...
Even if the pistons are at zero deck height, your heads would have to be down to around 96 cc chambers to get 11:1 CR. Are you sure of the CR?
 
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#8 ·
I think your combo should be faster with what you already have. Wasn't mr68 running 11.20's with that same basic combo in a 454? Are your listed E.T's with exhaust hooked up?

Rod
 
#10 ·
What do you want for an ET?

I have to agree, somethings very wrong here, with what you have to work with that car should be alot quicker than that.
The MPH is down, what rpms are you going over at?

What valves are in those heads ?
I wouldn`t be afraid to work them up some.

Again, post your expectations ET wise, that will help.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
I'll try to answer everyones questions and I appreciate all the help.

"Even if the pistons are at zero deck height, your heads would have to be down to around 96 cc chambers to get 11:1 CR. Are you sure of the CR?"

The factory manuals list these heads at 97cc chambers. I don't know if that is accurate and since this was my first engine, I didn't know to check them.

Yes the heads have 2.19/1.88 valves. I can get a good deal(like $20, through a friend) on getting a cylinder flowed would that be interesting to see if I'm wasting my time.

The only reason I'm hesitant on switching heads is that the pistons have a very small dome(5cc's). All the aftermarket heads I've seen have such a big chamber I'd lose all the compression that I currently have. I honestly am not in a position to rebuild this motor this year. I've got some money to spend but am on a very tight budget. Buying AFR's or Brodix heads I can't do, I'd like to but with a new baby it just isn't possible.

I'd really like to see the car go into the low 11's right now. It has absolutely no suspension work done to it at all. It hooks really good however on 28x10.5's with the stiff sidewall.

Is my goal to high with this motor/head combo? In a couple of years as more money comes along, I want to get it into the tens(new heads, etc.) but can't do it right now.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Matt
 
#12 ·
i did run 11.20's at 121 mph with that set up , but i had fully ported 215's and 2.25 /1.88 valves. the 206 bathtub heads arent as good as the 215's, a friend of mine runs those (206)heads with the same basic set up as this guy same cam , intake, carb and he only runs 11.60 at 115 mph. get some better breathing heads dude! i'm now running 10.77 at 123 mph with a 460 the same solid flat tappet as you and rr ovals.
 
#15 ·
Most of the aftermarket heads can be milled to 112cc or so.
If your CR is true, that would drop you to mid 9's for CR (approx)
I have had just fine success with 9.4:1 and pump gas in my 498. Although it never ran a low 11, it went right to the low 10's.
Cam is a Comp XR solid roller.
Heads are AFR 305's with the CNC option.

However, adding heads and a roller will run you upwards of 4 grand, and I gather this isn't in the budget.

I know of a pair of ported Edel rovals for a decent price.....110 cc chambers.

Ron
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
Ron, I didn't realize they could be milled that much. That sounds like a good way to go. I'm wanting to race one time in November, then I'm pulling out the motor to see exactly what I've got. The first thing I'll do is CC the heads and figure out the exact compression ratio. The block has never been decked so that will have to be checked out as well. Mid 9's compression would be great considering I would be able to run pump gas. The pistons at zero deck height with stock chambers on my heads were suppose to be 11:1. However the valves were unshrouded so I'm sure they are bigger than 97 cc's. However the motor still will not run on just pump gas without detonating, so it must have pretty decent compression. Thanks for the help.

Matt
 
#18 ·
mr68 said:
my brodix race rites were angle milled by brodix to 108 cc
with the cnc chambers. ray
Click to expand...
Did they re-face the surfaces under the bolt heads also after that and correct the intake manifold face? Did you have any issue with fitment/alignment after that angle mill??
 
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#19 ·
jim, they did re face all the bolt holes and true the intake surface 90 to the new surface. works perfectly. lost a little bit of compression from 10.4 to 10.0 but the car is stronger and 52 lbs lighter.
 
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