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396 SB why don't I see or hear more about them?

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3.9K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  Wolfplace  
W
#1 ·
I have seen a couple of engine builds with the 396 SB rotating assembly/ So is it a .30 over 350 4.030 and a 3.85 stroke?

Is a 383 combo better and if so why.

I would like to try a SB build like this while keeping the engine look mostly stock.

Or give up the stock look and put my order in not for 195 AFR heads.
 
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G
#3 ·
i also think a 396 sb would be a cool combo for a chevelle. i've been asked so many times is it a 396 ? you could say yep ! pop the hood and watch there face as there thinking thats a smallblock dumba**. put a open element air cleaner on it with the 396/375 hp decal on the top. seriously though that combo is supposed to be a tourqe monster, and 350 blocks are still a dime a dozen.
 
B
#5 ·
Actually at .030 over it is just under 393, with .040 gets you almost 395, and .060 is 398.5 cubic inches.

The 3.75" crank is so much easier to fit in most cases, plus the 383 combo parts are less expensive and more readily available.

Thomas
 
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W
#6 ·
I've seen a few of these rotating assemblies and they used 6" rods and they were not much more money. I'm thinking torque for a 69 wagon while still keeping the SB and the original accessories. I'm even thinking about keeping it a Q-jet.

I like being different. The 408 in my 66 Wagon took quite a lot of grinding on the block for some reason with the Eagle H beam rods and it was the stock crank. I guess the rods just had a big, big end. It just took a lot of clearancing.

Do 383's need clearancing on the block for the big end of the rods?

I know the rod bolts get close to the cam and are sometimes ground down to get the clearance needed.

I put the small base circle in my 408SB for that reason.

So I'm guessing a small base circle cam will be needed with the 3.85 stroke.

Any one know of other issues? Like bottom of the cylinders?

Thanks,
Rob
 
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#7 ·
Whittaker said:
I've seen a few of these rotating assemblies and they used 6" rods and they were not much more money. I'm thinking torque for a 69 wagon while still keeping the SB and the original accessories. I'm even thinking about keeping it a Q-jet.

I like being different. The 408 in my 66 Wagon took quite a lot of grinding on the block for some reason with the Eagle H beam rods and it was the stock crank. I guess the rods just had a big, big end. It just took a lot of clearancing.

Do 383's need clearancing on the block for the big end of the rods?

I know the rod bolts get close to the cam and are sometimes ground down to get the clearance needed.

I put the small base circle in my 408SB for that reason.

So I'm guessing a small base circle cam will be needed with the 3.85 stroke.

Any one know of other issues? Like bottom of the cylinders?

Thanks,
Rob
Click to expand...
=
All of the above :D
Yes you need to clearance for the rods
My opinion but you should not be using nut & bolt rods in a stroker or any other performance deal any more. No reason to.
Spend a few dollars more & get a decent rod with capscrews.
Scat's 7/16" capscrew I beam has more clearance at the cam then a stock 400 rod & they are very inexpensive.
You will likely need a reduced base circle cam, depends on the cam & rods.
The bottoms of the cylinders need clearancing for the rods
You may need to clearance the rear of the block at the pan rail for counterweight clearance.
Some pans need to be smacked around a bit ;)
 
W
#8 ·
Mike, Is there any reason not to do the 3.85 stroker motor?

I can do the clearancing myself, I hope.


Do you run very close to oil passages or the water jacket when doing a 396 SB?

Also would the AFR 195 be a good head for it. I'm thinking a hyd roller cam closer to or bigger than what is in my 408. UD Harold made it for me Lunati/UD 530/.530 Hyd roller, 110, intake is 234/242, exhaust 288/296.

What would you think of this with a 750 Holley mechanical secondaries double pumper, and a 3000 stall and 3.73s?
 
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#9 ·
Whittaker said:
Mike, Is there any reason not to do the 3.85 stroker motor?

I can do the clearancing myself, I hope.


Do you run very close to oil passages or the water jacket when doing a 396 SB?

Also would the AFR 195 be a good head for it. I'm thinking a hyd roller cam closer to or bigger than what is in my 408. UD Harold made it for me Lunati/UD 530/.530 Hyd roller, 110, intake is 234/242, exhaust 288/296.

What would you think of this with a 750 Holley mechanical secondaries double pumper, and a 3000 stall and 3.73s?
Click to expand...
=
Don't know what a 3.85 is??
Standard stuff is 3.5625. 3.75, 3.800, 3.875 & 4"
The more stroke the more grinding.
No oil passages are in the bottom of the block.
The water jackets get real iffy with the 4" stroke plus it gets real crowded at the cam too.
Up to 3.800 no big deal, the 3.875 can be an issue with H beam rods but usually will work.
With stock blocks when you start grinding for the longer strokes there are no guarantees :D
The notches that you had to enlarge in the 400 do not exist in the 350 block so there is quite a bit more grinding.

The new 195's would be great for what you seem to want
Should make great torque.
If you are wanting lots of torque for a driver I would look at a cam with less seat timing & preferably more lift.
With the 3000 stall converter that cam should work pretty good. I would try 1.6 rockers on the intake.
 
W
#10 ·
Sorry having a brain fart all day yesterday. I did mean 3.875.

So a 383 is simpler becasue you don't have to grind as much and the big ends of the rods with the less stroke keep things less crowded near the cam.

Will the extra inches be worth it? I would like the different factor and like was said put a 396/375 HP sticker on the air cleaner while they look at a small block.

Thanks, for the info Mike.
Rob
 
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W
#12 ·
Thanks,
 
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C
#13 ·
Digging up an old post, but does anyone make an off the shelf hyper piston for a 4.030-4.060" dia bore, using 5.7 or 6.0" rods, with a 3.875" stroke crankshaft?

Thanks.
 
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C
#15 ·
Thanks for the reply, but that is a forged piston. If I were to build a 396 SBC I would want a cast or hyper piston because it would be a daily-driver. So the cost or demand of a forged piece isn't needed or desired.

Thanks anyway though.
 
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O
#16 ·
You would go through the extra work to build a 396, extra expense of the crank, rods, clearancing, cam concerns, cooling, etc, then try to save $200 on a set of pistons?
 
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S
#21 ·
bluerebl said:
How about, because I just feel like it?

Point taken guys. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

sorry man, not trying to bust your balls. Just trying to put into perspective that your cheap pistons could cause more damage than buying a set of forged in the first place. It`s your motor so build it how you see fit. I`ve used KB pistons that alot of people say are junk but i would use them again no problem. on the other hand, if I`m forking out $500-$600 for a crank, may as well bite the bullet and buy good stuff for the rest of the lower end.
 
#23 ·
=
I have 5 of the 4" stoke deals in the shop right now & every one is going in a street car.
Two tall deck Darts, two standard deck Darts & one standard deck Brodix aluminum block one.
(which happens to be for sale if you just gotta tell your friends you have an aluminum block,,,, )

I would not build one with a stock block anymore, to me it is just plain stupid.
I would prefer not to do the 4" stroke with the standard deck block either but they can be done. ;)
 
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