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Iforgot

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
How do you get the front tires to stop leaning in so much when a Chevelle leaves the line? I’m guessing a combination of limiters and maybe upper control arms?
All of the components are actually in good shape, just looks like crap then it leaves. I hate to take travel out with limiters but might have to. This pic is from the no-prep race, I was pulling 10 degrees for 1.5 seconds after tbrake released. It looks worse than this when it leaves with no launch retard..
 

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You oughta see how cars that use upper ball joint spacers look, or do you already have them? ;)
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
You oughta see how cars that use upper ball joint spacers look, or do you already have them?
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Nope, it’s a 100% bone stock front end except for moroso trick springs. Anything i’ve replaced has been oem type stuff..has kyb stock replacement shocks even..
It drives fine. People watch it leave and swear it’s about to fall apart!!
 
Do you have the stock bump stops on the uppers or are they trimmed?
 
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That is simply form the poorly designed factory suspension geometry. To have the tires stay vertical through the travel, you would need to change the upper and lower control arms, tall upper ball joints, and tall tie rod ends.

I did the SC&C stage 2 Plus kit, as well as SPC lower control arms. My front tires stay square with the ground from full extension to full compression. But, you will lose droop travel with the SPC upper arms.

1964-72 Chevelle, GTO, 442, El Camino (A-Body) | Savitske Classic & Custom
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I'm already impressed that its off the ground, I cant do that, kudos to you. Let the wheels alone, its impressive.

What bothers me is the lack of a grille emblem, front turn signal lights and that crooked piece of trim on the drivers lower fender.
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Bothers me too hahaha but apparently not too bad!! I need to put the turn signals back on, it would take all of 10 minutes..the grille emblem I can’t find (I put it up so I wouldn’t lose it), and the crooked trim..I forgot why it’s crooked?
If it’s on a really good track and I can turn it up leaving the line, it will get the fronts up 12-14”.
 
How do you get the front tires to stop leaning in so much when a Chevelle leaves the line? I’m guessing a combination of limiters and maybe upper control arms?
All of the components are actually in good shape, just looks like crap then it leaves. I hate to take travel out with limiters but might have to. This pic is from the no-prep race, I was pulling 10 degrees for 1.5 seconds after tbrake released. It looks worse than this when it leaves with no launch retard..
That looks pretty good to me, I would be happy to just have mine driveable......:thumbsup:
 
How do you get the front tires to stop leaning in so much when a Chevelle leaves the line? I’m guessing a combination of limiters and maybe upper control arms?
All of the components are actually in good shape, just looks like crap then it leaves. I hate to take travel out with limiters but might have to. This pic is from the no-prep race, I was pulling 10 degrees for 1.5 seconds after tbrake released. It looks worse than this when it leaves with no launch retard..
Tall upper ball joints helped mine. And then I added a TRZ bump steer kit to help the bump steer.

I did homemade travel limiters with a 1/2-13 bolt through the upper control arm where the factory bump stop was.
 
Mine stays pretty straight I think. Front end is all stock stuff except for taller upper ball joints and global west cross shafts.
 

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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Not sure if this angle show you how straight up and down it is.

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That looks much much better than mine (Jared’s does also).
I hate to take out travel but it is what it is. What’s the p/n and source for tall ball joints?
I’ll also look in to the TRZ bump steer kit- just helped a buddy put TRZ a-arms, coilovers, and rack and pinion conversion on a 66 Chevy II- TRZ stuff looks good!
Factory bump stops are technically still “there” just a little shorter than they were 48 years ago!
 
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