Well the zbar didnt fit so I heated it and bent it over a little bit to clean the headers, it clears fine but now the zbar/ clutch fork rod bar Whats that called? Doesnt line up right. In order to get it correct Id have to heat and twist the zbar again which isnt possible in my sad little garage. So im thinking of bending the clutch fork/ zbar rod itself since its so thin... maybe not a good idea... any ideas?
Ghetto Rigging Clutch Rod?
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G
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·Well the zbar didnt fit so I heated it and bent it over a little bit to clean the headers, it clears fine but now the zbar/ clutch fork rod bar Whats that called? Doesnt line up right. In order to get it correct Id have to heat and twist the zbar again which isnt possible in my sad little garage. So im thinking of bending the clutch fork/ zbar rod itself since its so thin... maybe not a good idea... any ideas?
G
Guest
·Hmmm, true. Anyone else? I need to drive to work in the meantime.
OOOOH!!! I know ..............duct tape
Bottom line, you need the right headers, definitely don't want to compromise your clutch setup. Put exhaust manifolds back on, if you have to!
Bottom line, you need the right headers, definitely don't want to compromise your clutch setup. Put exhaust manifolds back on, if you have to!
Try flipping the push rod to the other side of the Z bar arm. It may or may not start to rub again, but it will allow you to get to work.
Not sure how yours is currently situated, but you may get lucky because by moving the push rod to the other side of the Z bar arm it also angles it in the opposite direction.
I had a clearance issue on my 66, and instead of doing something as drastic as bending the Z bar, I just flipped the push rod to the engine side.
I think since you had already altered your Z bar, it (push rod) 'probably will not line up with your fork.
If you find it doesn't work, it may be time to get creative.
Maybe a chunk of aluminum bolted to the Z bar (drill and thread a hole), then drill a hole that will receive and offset the threaded portion of the push rod.
...just one quick idea off the top of my head.
Not sure how yours is currently situated, but you may get lucky because by moving the push rod to the other side of the Z bar arm it also angles it in the opposite direction.
I had a clearance issue on my 66, and instead of doing something as drastic as bending the Z bar, I just flipped the push rod to the engine side.
I think since you had already altered your Z bar, it (push rod) 'probably will not line up with your fork.
If you find it doesn't work, it may be time to get creative.
Maybe a chunk of aluminum bolted to the Z bar (drill and thread a hole), then drill a hole that will receive and offset the threaded portion of the push rod.
...just one quick idea off the top of my head.
G
Guest
·Weird, I did end up flipping the rod to the other side and it cleared perfectly. Im all set. I didnt have to do anything drastic either!
I'd keep an eye on that Z-bar. I bent the tab on the clutch pedal with my old setup (stock NAPA clutch), and now that you've heated the Z-bar it will be weaker. It will probably take some time before it breaks, though. Have you ever driven without using the clutch?
Ryan
Ryan
G
Guest
·I'll keep an eye on it, Ive never driven without a clutch - is it possible?
Joined
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2 Posts
Oh yeah, especially in an old Chevy.
Next time you're rolling to a stop (with nobody in front of you) try dropping it into 2nd. Don't force it, it will slip into gear as if you had your foot on the clutch.
You only need to give it an easy tug at the right speed and you're on your way. The same goes for 3rd and 4th.
1st doesn't cooperate but that don't matter none how cuz you're just trying to get home.
I wonder if it is the RPM or the MPH that dictate the sweet spot...?
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