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...I just bought a 1966 Chevelle 2 door hard top Deluxe ... From what I did in vin research it is a 66 Deluxe 2 door coupe hard top.
Fred,

Congrats, nice looking car to start with...

FYI, If you need to order body or interior parts, your cars trim level would be considered a "Malibu"... At least here in the States, the "Deluxe" (300 Deluxe) has much less chrome trim, etc... both inside and out. All you trim appears to be "Malibu"... Not sure how they labeled the exported cars...
 
also my mechanic recommended a limited slip differential I have a TH350 any thought were to get it?
The TH350 is the transmission. The limited slip differential will be in the rear axle. Originally, your car most likely came with a 8.2 10-bolt CHEVROLET rearend (8.2 inch ring gear diameter), but you should verify before buying parts (just like the transmission).
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
fred,

congrats, nice looking car to start with...

Fyi, if you need to order body or interior parts, your cars trim level would be considered a "malibu"... At least here in the states, the "deluxe" (300 deluxe) has much less chrome trim, etc... Both inside and out. All you trim appears to be "malibu"... Not sure how they labeled the exported cars...
thanks....much cooler a malibu :)
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
The TH350 is the transmission. The limited slip differential will be in the rear axle. Originally, your car most likely came with a 8.2 10-bolt CHEVROLET rearend (8.2 inch ring gear diameter), but you should verify before buying parts (just like the transmission).

Correct sorry for the mistake...the Transmission is the TH350.

How do I figure out reared I have on it?

I figured out the TH 350 because very kindly was sent the diagram of various transmission front view and figured it out.
 
Fred, easiest place to start is by counting the bolts on the rear differential cover.
Next, to get an approximate idea of the rear gear ratio, count the number of times the driveshaft turns to get the rear wheel to make a complete revolution. Use chalk to mark the wheel and driveshaft.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Fred, easiest place to start is by counting the bolts on the rear differential cover.
Next, to get an approximate idea of the rear gear ratio, count the number of times the driveshaft turns to get the rear wheel to make a complete revolution. Use chalk to mark the wheel and driveshaft.
Thanks Jhonny, will do this tomorrow at the shop....is the limited slip a must on the car?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Hi Guys,

Please help me with this

two questions guys

1. Limited slip a must?

2. biggest tire size I can fit on a 18x8 fr + 20x9.5 rr ??

Need to buy this today so I can ship to Colombia and not delay the build.

Thanks
 
Hi Guys,

Please help me with this

two questions guys

1. Limited slip a must?

2. biggest tire size I can fit on a 18x8 fr + 20x9.5 rr ??

Need to buy this today so I can ship to Colombia and not delay the build.

Thanks
Limited slip is nice, especially IF you have a lot of power... Limited slip just sends power to BOTH rear wheels... If you ever see a car burn rubber, a limited slip equipped car will leave two black marks, one from EACH rear tire... Without limited slip, only one tire will leave a black mark (typically, there are some exceptions)...

That's why with more powerful engines, you may want limited slip for better acceleration/traction. But its not a necessity.

Actually, If you are planning on more power, you may be better choosing a stronger rearend, and rebuilding that. The 8.2 10-bolt is kind of week...

FYI, Limited Slip is the SAME as Positraction (Posi, etc). "Positraction" is actually a brand name for Chevrolet's limited slip differential...



Tire size...

Not sure on the 18 and 20 inch wheels, but on my previous '66's I ran 265/50/15 on the front and 295/50/15 on the rear... Later I switched to 275/40/17 on both front and rear...

So that should give you a good idea of what size tires will fit (mine had stock rear fender lips).


Also, be aware. An easier upgrade on the rearend is a 12-bolt from another Chevelle. 12-bolts were available from 1965-1972, BUT Chevelles are specific. You can not install a 12-bolt from a Camaro or an Impala or a truck, etc... Must be a Chevelle...

And the more commonly available 12-bolts are the 68-72 Chevelle rearends. While these will directly bolt into your car, they have an additional 1/2 of width on each side (1" overall). This means if you swap to one of these later 12-bolts, your wheels will be pushed out 1/2 on each side (so plan your wheel choice accordingly)...

Its more money, but it may be beneficial to purchase a pre-built 9-inch or Moser replacement rearend...

So to reiterate, plan your rearend and brake choices BEFORE getting your wheels... Rearend widths and many disc brake kits WILL alter the track width and affect the wheel/tire fitment...



For more info on your rearend, check this site:
1966 Chevelle Rear Axle Codes
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Limited slip is nice, especially IF you have a lot of power... Limited slip just sends power to BOTH rear wheels... If you ever see a car burn rubber, a limited slip equipped car will leave two black marks, one from EACH rear tire... Without limited slip, only one tire will leave a black mark (typically, there are some exceptions)...

That's why with more powerful engines, you may want limited slip for better acceleration/traction. But its not a necessity.

Actually, If you are planning on more power, you may be better choosing a stronger rearend, and rebuilding that. The 8.2 10-bolt is kind of week...

FYI, Limited Slip is the SAME as Positraction (Posi, etc). "Positraction" is actually a brand name for Chevrolet's limited slip differential...



Tire size...

Not sure on the 18 and 20 inch wheels, but on my previous '66's I ran 265/50/15 on the front and 295/50/15 on the rear... Later I switched to 275/40/17 on both front and rear...

So that should give you a good idea of what size tires will fit (mine had stock rear fender lips).


Also, be aware. An easier upgrade on the rearend is a 12-bolt from another Chevelle. 12-bolts were available from 1965-1972, BUT Chevelles are specific. You can not install a 12-bolt from a Camaro or an Impala or a truck, etc... Must be a Chevelle...

And the more commonly available 12-bolts are the 68-72 Chevelle rearends. While these will directly bolt into your car, they have an additional 1/2 of width on each side (1" overall). This means if you swap to one of these later 12-bolts, your wheels will be pushed out 1/2 on each side (so plan your wheel choice accordingly)...

Its more money, but it may be beneficial to purchase a pre-built 9-inch or Moser replacement rearend...

So to reiterate, plan your rearend and brake choices BEFORE getting your wheels... Rearend widths and many disc brake kits WILL alter the track width and affect the wheel/tire fitment...



For more info on your rearend, check this site:
1966 Chevelle Rear Axle Codes
thanks for the info .....I was confirmed I have a 10 bolt in the rear. I took the advice and marked the tire and a full cycle of the tire gives me a 1 and 3/4 turns in the drive shaft
 
thanks for the info .....I was confirmed I have a 10 bolt in the rear. I took the advice and marked the tire and a full cycle of the tire gives me a 1 and 3/4 turns in the drive shaft
The info provided was a little vague...

Without a limited slip, jack up ONE rear wheel, turn the wheel one revolution and count the driveshaft revolutions. Then multiply that number by 2... that will give you a good ballpart for what gears are in your rearend right now...

If you jack BOTH wheels off the ground, youn need to make sure either one wheel does NOT turn, and double the driveshaft revolutions... Or turn BOTH wheels simultaneously, one full revolution each...

Otherwise, the spider gears in the differential may be moving, ruining your count... If we assume you did the job correctly, then you have about a 3.55:1 gear ratio (1-3/4 X 2 = 3.5)... Not always, but 3.55 would likely come with limited slip already.

Also remember, in the past 50+ years, your car's rear axle may have been rebuilt and/or replaced...


Chevy's had 2 different 10-bolts ( the 8.2 and a stronger 8.5), and there were other BOP 10-bolts (BOP=Buick Oldsmobile, Pontiac) that are a direct bolt-in to a Chevelle... Not 100% sure on the "Chevy" 8.5 10-bolt, 1970+ Cutlass/lemans/GTO/Skylark and maybe 1971+ El Caminos.

Especially because of your shipping hassles/cost/time, verify what rearend you actually have before ordering parts...

Image





The website I linked above (Chevellestuff.net) should have the casting numbers and location information to verify what rearend is currently in your car... Quick and dirty, "Chevelle" rearends (8.2 and the Chevy 12-bolts) will have an "inverted "V" shape stamped into the cover... If the rear cover is smooth, its probably not the original "Chevelle" rearend...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9912&d=1139407843
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the info Tony sure will do as you say!!! I will get some pics as well.

My mechanic sent me this pics of the rear end once he opened it.


It as the following numbers on it. 379C628 11-37 GM 1 66 DON'T KNOW IF THIS HELPS OUT.

The guys at JEGS are suggestion this WITH THE LIMITED INFO I GVE THEM

the last pic is of the rear end
 

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Thanks for the info Tony sure will do as you say!!! I will get some pics as well.

My mechanic sent me this pics of the rear end once he opened it.


It as the following numbers on it. 379C628 11-37 GM 1 66 DON'T KNOW IF THIS HELPS OUT.

The guys at JEGS are suggestion this WITH THE LIMITED INFO I GVE THEM

the last pic is of the rear end


DOES THIS MEAN MY GEAR RATIO IS 11-37???

I HATE BEING MECHANICALLY CHALLENGED!!!!

PLEASE HELP ME CHOOSE MY LIMITED SLIP BEFORE I SACK F....IT AND BECOME A ONE WHEEL SPINNING LOOSER:crying:
 
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