This page is going to be an ongoing project where I can post tools that may not fit in any other section. It's an area where I can show tools that you never thought about.
If any items are removed, it's because I found them to be a bore or relocated them elsewhere.
Pop Rivets and pop rivet guns;
Pop rivets enable you to attach two items together without having access to the back side of the item. For this reason, they are sometimes called "blind rivets".
They come in all sorts of lengths and diameters. In some automotive applications, they use a rivet with a large shoulder, and these can be found at some automotive paint supply stores. Most rivets are aluminum, but it's possible to also get steel rivets.
A pop rivet has a center pin that the pop rivet gun grabs hold of and tries to pull through the rivet body. As this is done, the head on the center pin deforms the body and crimps it tight. When done, the center pin breaks off. In the photo above, the rivet on the left has just been placed through the piece of steel. The rivet in the center has been installed and crimped from the under side of the steel. The pop rivet gun is set on the rivet at the right and is ready to crimp.
When using pop rivets, the rivet should be a snug fit in the hole through the material. The length of the rivet should be such that before crimping, it's sticking out the blind side about 1/4". If using rivets on soft material, you should use a washer on the blind side to spread out the load (there are special washers for this).
A "cleco" is a temporary clamp that can be used where you are planning on installing a pop rivet. They are real common in the aircraft industry. (I know that Year One lists them in their catalog)
The photo above shows an installed cleco and one with the tool in place (the reason for the rubber band is just so that I could take the photo).
In using a cleco, the tool releases the fingers on the blind side. When the fingers are released, the cleco can be removed. They can be used over again and again.
90 Degree drills;
There are times when you just can't get a drill motor in where you have to drill a hole. A "90 degree drill" is an adapter that you can put on your drill motor (shown is a rechargeable variable speed Black and Decker).
By using a short drill bit, with this set-up I could drill in a cavity that is only 5" deep.
It's kind of weird to use this set-up due to the fact that the adapter has to be held from moving around while drilling.
3-M "Roloc" disks;
These little guys come from 3-M with a quick screw-on tab. They just twist onto the adapter that you have to get for your grinder.
They come in various grits and are great for removing rusted areas, paint, and Bondo.
What I don't have (yet) is a 90 degree air grinder for these. The grinder shown is a bit of a pain to use.
The disks are about 3 inch in diameter. You can get them (and the adapters) at an automotive paint supply.
Deep reach vise grips;
It's amazing the different types of vice grips that I've seen. These come in real handy when fabrication metal stuff! I ended up using them when I replaced the floor pans in my wagon.
I got them at the local "Home Base".
Dang, this scan just didn't come out worth a poop.
Chassis punches are named that cause they are used in the electronic industry to make cabinets. A chassis punch will make a perfectly round circle and will not deform the metal panel.
What the photo doesn't show very well is that one side of the punch goes on one side of the panel and has cutting edges. The other piece is the cup that the removed section goes into.
To use one, you have to drill a hole for the bolt to go through. The unit is asembled and then the bolt is tightened down.
The bad thing is that they cost lots! They are only for one size.
I used a chassis punch to make the holes for the power window wire boots. (that is a long, ongoing story)
I always keep some of these in the garage!!
They come in various sizes. What is strange (and must not be politically correct) is that "skin color" is only for white guys.
Ok, these are the standard tin snips. The only reason that I am showing this photo is so that I can describe the other snips in the next photo.
When using this type of tin snip, one side of the cut metal goes below your grip and the other side goes above. Wear gloves!
These are the COOL tin snips! Yes, there is a reason why one has a red handle while the other is green.
Notice that the red tin snips are at the right side of the metal being cut!! The green snips would be on the left side of the cut.
Big important point here; at all times, your hand is above the metal you are cutting.
Also note, as shown above, the red snips tends to wander to the left as you cut.