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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am converting to manual. I have a repo z bar and ball stud.
I have a couple of questions.

How snug should the ball stud be in the Zbar? Mine fits relatively loose?

Also when installed properly, how far would the ball stud be in the z bar or how close should the z bar be to the block?

Thanks muchly
 

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Ball on mine feels loose. Not where you can shake it but just for good circular movement. There is no certain measurement for zbar to to block or ball in zbar. That all depends on your particular set up. All your checking will be done when you have the zbar connected to the frame bracket and the other end of zbar in ball stud with it in the block. The ball will be inside the zbar at different mesurements depending on each cars set up. Your worrying too soon :D . Like I do...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ball on mine feels loose. Not where you can shake it but just for good circular movement. There is no certain measurement for zbar to to block or ball in zbar. That all depends on your particular set up. All your checking will be done when you have the zbar connected to the frame bracket and the other end of zbar in ball stud with it in the block. The ball will be inside the zbar at different mesurements depending on each cars set up. Your worrying too soon :D . Like I do...
I like to over analyze things sometimes :D

Appreciate it Rich
 

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The ball will be inside the zbar at different mesurements depending on each cars set up.
That's not really true. There does need to be a little play in the overall system to allow the engine to move around a bit without causing the clutch linkage to bind, but the static depth of the ball stud shouldn't vary from one car to another.

The ball stud should be almost entirely in the z-bar tube. Inside the z-bar tube is a shouldered area. This shoulder holds a nylon cup, this nylon cup should fit against the head of the ball stud when the z-bar is in place against the ball stud. Look at the ball stud and you'll find a groove at the base of the ball. A large rubber washer should fit over the ball and into the groove. This rubber washer fits into the opening of the z-bar tube and helps keep the grease in the tube and dirt out.
 

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Maybe my statement sounds like the ball can be any where in the zbar. Not what I'm saying.
But with different worn or new motormounts, frame bracket hook up, the ball will not be in the same place on all cars. But yes, has to be well inside the zbar.
I will say he won't have a problem.
 

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Search the Forum and you will find diagrams from the assembly manual that will help. Once you fill it up with grease it should operate nice and smooth.
 

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Maybe my statement sounds like the ball can be any where in the zbar. Not what I'm saying.
But with different worn or new motormounts, frame bracket hook up, the ball will not be in the same place on all cars. But yes, has to be well inside the zbar.
I will say he won't have a problem.
I would agree, he probably won't have a problem.

There IS a difference between a z-bar for use with a big block from one used with a small block so make sure you have the right one for your application.
 

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Once the z-bar is bolted to the frame mount the ball stud should be seated in the nylon bushing in the tube. There should be little to no end play and the z-bar should pivot freely. Any little bit of play (up and down) should be gone once it is greased properly!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I am always trying to think or maybe overthink ahead.

I have to relocate my proportioning valve for this swap so I removed it and the associated brake lines tonight. Tomorrow I am going to try and drill and tap the hole in the block for the ball stud. Key word here is try. With the engine in the car it is a little tight but I will give it a go anyway. If that fails I will build a bracket from the bell housing. I would like to have all my linkage in place this weekend and the brakes replumbed. That way when the m22w gets here all the not so fun work is done. I have a firewall plate for a manual car here but I think I may just cut the hole in the existing firewall plate. I have all my linkage now, bell housing is on the way, tranny ordered, shifter, clutch, flywheel all on their way.

Stay tuned, more questions to follow
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's not really true. There does need to be a little play in the overall system to allow the engine to move around a bit without causing the clutch linkage to bind, but the static depth of the ball stud shouldn't vary from one car to another.

The ball stud should be almost entirely in the z-bar tube. Inside the z-bar tube is a shouldered area. shoulThis shoulder holds a nylon cup, this nylon cup d fit against the head of the ball stud when the z-bar is in place against the ball stud. Look at the ball stud and you'll find a groove at the base of the ball. A large rubber washer should fit over the ball and into the groove. This rubber washer fits into the opening of the z-bar tube and helps keep the grease in the tube and dirt out.
I just reread this and hilighted a part. I only received 2 nylon cups. It shows them installed in the frame bracket end of the z bar. hmmmm
Better check it out
 

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I'm pretty sure you guys are right. I DO recall that the frame end should go this way: nylon cup/ball stud/nylon cup/snap ring. The stud is retained by the cups and snap ring and then the nut holds the stud to the bracket on the frame. A lock washer helps lock down the retaining nut and the felt washer helps keep dirt out of the opening in the tube.

On the block side, I may have not remembered correctly and perhaps that end doesn't use a nylon cup. A quick look at the block end of the z-bar tube will confirm whether one is needed there or not.
 

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On the block side, I may have not remembered correctly and perhaps that end doesn't use a nylon cup. A quick look at the block end of the z-bar tube will confirm whether one is needed there or not.
ONLY the ball with grease and rubber seal goes into the zbar on block side. There is nothing in the zbar on block side to hold a nylon seat in place, or clips etc.

And JERRY, only ONE felt washer is used, even tho the kit comes with 2, which you said you only have one.. The rubber seal on the ball on the block side is all you need. From factory only one felt washer was used

CAN WE end this thread today :D
 

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Thanks guys, I am always trying to think or maybe overthink ahead.

I have to relocate my proportioning valve for this swap so I removed it and the associated brake lines tonight. Tomorrow I am going to try and drill and tap the hole in the block for the ball stud. Key word here is try. With the engine in the car it is a little tight but I will give it a go anyway. If that fails I will build a bracket from the bell housing. I would like to have all my linkage in place this weekend and the brakes replumbed. That way when the m22w gets here all the not so fun work is done. I have a firewall plate for a manual car here but I think I may just cut the hole in the existing firewall plate. I have all my linkage now, bell housing is on the way, tranny ordered, shifter, clutch, flywheel all on their way.

Stay tuned, more questions to follow
I drilled and tapped mine. I suggest removing the inner fender, then you have a straight shot. Get a new drill and tap set from lowes or home depot for $20 or less if you don't already have one. For the tap, we ground down the drive end of the tap a bit to accept a 1/4 drive socket to jam onto the tap, then used a LONG extension stepped up to 3/8 drive and were then able to use a ratchet to make the threads. In other words, we were spinning the ratchet outside the fender thanks to the long extension. Use plenty of WD40 (or whatever) to lubricate your drill and your tap. Anyway, it came out great and was not hard to do.
 
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