Chevelles.com banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, i was just wanting to give an update on my wiring situation. I converted my stock harness to work with the gauge option. There was some warning i got about how you couldn't bypass the idiot light because it acted as the resistance in the line. I used the backup resistance line going to the ignition switch in place of the bulb and so far so good. I've been driving it daily for about a week now and the car starts up fine, so maybe it's possible to bypass the light? If my car suddenly dies i'll do another update


BTW Thanx for all the wiring help, it's nice to finally be driving my car again.

------------------
1970 Camaro Z28
396/auto/posi
My 70 Z28
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,477 Posts
NO YOU CAN'T!

Just kidding


I finally thought things thru, never owning a camaro, my knowledge is pretty weak in that area.

It seems the Camaro line was designed for the "ultra high tech" look if full guages were ordered. An idiot lite would look tacky!

Soooo... The engineers had half the battle figured out. By using an AMMETER, the car owner could still monitor the charging system. But what to do about that light that's in millions of other cars???

The answer was simple, a wire that had built in resistance like the one used in points ignition systems.

It just happened that the bulb worked out, it lit when the there was enough electrical potential between both side of the filament (indicating a problem as when it illuminated). But the voltage regulator needed resistance in line with the main B+ (the 12 volts throughout the car) to detect over-charging correctly. Since a friggin' bulb was a no-no in Camaro land, they had to devise a way to get that resistance. So, thus came the resistive wire. Didn't you say it was about 2 ohms/foot? Anyhow, these are just my mental thoughts...


WannaChev, as long as you correctly connected the wire, you'll be fine. In the stock form, by right, it would go from the #4 terminal on the external Voltage Regulator
to the eventual tie-in point in the dash where all the other lights/guages get there 12 volts only when the ignition is in the on/start/run position.

Since you've changed a bunch of stuff, the only thing I can advise is to monitor your voltage at the battery.

During normal engine run at approx. 1000 rpm you should see no less than 13.8 volts, and no more than 14.5 volts.

Rev the engine, turn on lights, etc. Voltage should stay within those limits.

I gotta quit thinkin' so much

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
"Since a friggin' bulb was a no-no in Camaro land" lol
funny

So you're saying the 'Velles never got the resistance wire?

Saying the car didn't have the resistance wire, could you take a correct resistance wire, hook it up to the IGN post on the fuseblock, and run it to the alternator? or is that a no-no that makes no sense? I'm not an expert.

Thanx,
Jeff

------------------
1970 Camaro Z28
396/auto/posi
My 70 Z28
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top