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Until you get things figured out, disconnect the battery when you are not working on the car. Whatever is not right could create issues with the battery connected. Just saying.

With things being tested and showing fine, then maybe the alternator regulator is internal or external is not getting power when it should be to turn things on.

With the two suppliers of wiring harnesses, could they not be playing well with each other and then not wanting to play right with a factory ammeter gauge ?.

Maybe give them a shout and see if they have any input to figuring things out.

I know we will all say that a connection looks good and/or solid but you need to break out a meter and see what is going on. The no start could be a power issue, a ground issue, a solenoid power issue, or who knows what but by testing and then writing down what is good and then bad, the issue(s) should be able to be corrected.

So you know on an ammeter gauge with the car off the gauge should be in the middle and then by turning on the headlights and pulling power off of the battery without the alternator doing anything the gauge needle should go towards the discharge side. If it goes the other way, the connections are backwards.

Jim
 

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A car that sits for long periods can drain the battery as it sits so a "battery tender" or a trickle charger that you keep your eye on will keep the battery fully charged.
I like the battery Tender's because you don't have to baby sit them and you can trust them to keep your battery fully charged so when you try to start the car, it cranks.



So when a starter clicks like that, either the battery is weak or there's a starter system problem.Now that doesn't mean your starters bad but it could be anything that makes the starter spin your engine over.Cables,starter and its solenoid.poor battery connections,weak or dead battery, ignition switch,ign switch wiring,(you were just under the dash right? double check what you did)


this is a helpful vid.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Feels like there's two separate unrelated issues. I think the gauge could be fried, it is almost 60 years old.

The non starting issue concerns me more. If the battery voltage reading 12.7 when the car is running, there is a charging issue. Maybe the battery cable ends are corroded?
it could be a gauge issue, no doubt, it is 56 years old. Not sure how to test it.
I cleaned the cable clamps and battery posts, so those are nice and clean.
Positive cable is brand new, so that shouldn't be an issue.
Cleaned negative cable, bolt & nut at water pump connection, so that's not likely the issue either.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Until you get things figured out, disconnect the battery when you are not working on the car. Whatever is not right could create issues with the battery connected. Just saying.

With things being tested and showing fine, then maybe the alternator regulator is internal or external is not getting power when it should be to turn things on.

With the two suppliers of wiring harnesses, could they not be playing well with each other and then not wanting to play right with a factory ammeter gauge ?.

Maybe give them a shout and see if they have any input to figuring things out.

I know we will all say that a connection looks good and/or solid but you need to break out a meter and see what is going on. The no start could be a power issue, a ground issue, a solenoid power issue, or who knows what but by testing and then writing down what is good and then bad, the issue(s) should be able to be corrected.

So you know on an ammeter gauge with the car off the gauge should be in the middle and then by turning on the headlights and pulling power off of the battery without the alternator doing anything the gauge needle should go towards the discharge side. If it goes the other way, the connections are backwards.

Jim
In situations like this, I always leave the cables disconnected from the battery, you just never know.

I have a couple more external alt. regulators, so I'll try them and see what happens compared to the NOS one I just installed after the initial meltdown. If nothing is different than I'll know it's not that.

The ammeter gauge drops between the middle and bottom line on the face when the dome light comes on & if I turn the headlights on with the dome light on, the gauge drops to the very bottom to the D. When it's connected on the back of the gauge this way, the needle never gets above the middle line & completely drops to the D when it's starting or running.

I guess I'm gonna have to see if I can buy longer testing wires for my multimeter, because they don't reach for all the testing it looks like I need to do.

Thanks everyone for your help! It is much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Congrats on the new house!

Any pics you can share of the installed wiring?
I hope this works, but it looks like they're being rotated 90 degrees and I'm not sure how to fix that. Sorry
 

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I hope this works, but it looks like they're being rotated 90 degrees and I'm not sure how to fix that. Sorry

Thanks this is helpful. :thumbsup:
 
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