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I have a CD player installed in my car, but no 'accessory' position on my ignition switch, so I can't listen to music while working inside the car without having the ignition on.

I was wondering if it was possible to run a switch in between the 'battery' and 'accessory' wires of the unit, in which case I'd just flip the switch instead of turning the key on.

My one concern is that the current will then backfeed to the ignition switch, messing something else up or possibly turning the coil on anyhow.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance if you do.
 

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One thought and maybe the easiest way is to run a line, with an in-line fuse from a hot connection on the fuse panel. Use a good switch to provide power to thr player. The problem is you will have to remember to turn off the unit when you get out of the car. It won't shut off on the ignition switch.
 

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To add on to the other reply, to eliminate the posibility of back feedback, put a diode inline on the wire feeding the switch. You can buy diodes at Radio Shack. Any general purpose diode will work. the diode will have a plastic body, round, with a leads on each end. The body will have a band around one end. Connect this end towards the switch. This will keep voltage from feeding back thru the diode.
 

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You can install a switch like you mention but it will backfeed into the ignition.

Personally, I would use 2 diodes. Put one in-line between each switch (ignition and toggle) and the player. The band goes towards the player. This will prevent any chance of backfeed either way.

You should look for a fairly high current diode to make sure you don't kill them. Try to match the diode rating to the fuse that's in the wire for the CD player.

Putting a diode before the wire feeding the new switch really won't help. The new switch would still backfeed the ignition if this is all you do.

Peter
 

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Ummm, bit confused here...

What kinda of car is this? I thought I was the only one that had that problem (no accessory for a radio) when I was driving an '86 VW Jetta. They used a constant battery source, so you could leave the radio on (unfortunately) without the key in at all or anything else on at all.

As for the replies...well why not make things simple....

Splice the 'CONSTANT/MEMORY' wire (usually yellow) the 'TRIGGER/ACCESSORY' wire (usually red) together, then connect both of those to the cigarette lighter power feed wire (which is usually protected by a 20 AMP fuse feed-more than enough for most applications). Now it will have power at all times. No need for diodes or home-built circuitry. You just have to remember to make sure the unit is off when you leave the vehicle to prevent battery drainage.

The only problem you may have is if this unit has a "clock" display or something that automatically comes on an stays on when the "accessory" line is hot or on EVEN if the radio is off. Then, you will have to make some vehicle wiring mods. That's why I like Panasonic decks. Most I've dealt with thought of this, and there is a way to override the display clock upon unit turn off, so it doesn't drain the battery despite the fact the head-unit's trigger and source wires are constant at +12 volts.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Coppertop:

Splice the 'CONSTANT/MEMORY' wire (usually yellow) the 'TRIGGER/ACCESSORY' wire (usually red) together, then connect both of those to the cigarette lighter power feed wire (which is usually protected by a 20 AMP fuse feed-more than enough for most applications). Now it will have power at all times.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Joe
I'm assume that you are saying to include an in-line fuse on this line. The 20 amp won't protect the deck.
John
 

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John,

99.99% of all new aftermarket decks have fuses in-line with the connection pigtails or built into the rear of the deck. Yes, by all means leave these ON! When I said "splice", I assumed that most people would not risk removing them.
 
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