So someone removed the wires going to the old voltage regulator?? Or did they just cut off the connector?
I wouldn't run this wire to IGN. That's a little too far away from the alternator for the sense line and could drive the alternator output too high because of dirty switch contacts.sudolg said:I ran the red wire to the male connector on my fuse box under the dash. It is labled, ignition. This gives it power when I start the car and energizes the regulator.
Like John said again. "2" terminal on the alternator is used to adjust the voltage output of the alternator. Also wiring it on a fused cirucit, if the fuse blows the sense wire won't get any input. You could run it to the battery or the junction block on the rad core support (near the battery) You should get 14-14.5 volts at the battery (with a fully charged battery) , with the car running at a fast idle. The way its wired now the voltage at the battery might be to high overcharging it. Hope this helpsJohn_Muha said:I wouldn't run this wire to IGN. That's a little too far away from the alternator for the sense line and could drive the alternator output too high because of dirty switch contacts.
If you need to run the sense line down to the fuseblock, at least move it over to BAT.
You could run the "2" terminal back to main alternator line, all this does is mimic a one wire alternator. See picsudolg said:I thought "Bat" would not work because then it will drain the battery when sitting, otherwise I would just run it to the main alternator line. I need a positive that switches on with the ignition from what I have read. Correct me if I am wrong.
That's the pic from Tech Ref 14 on this site, and it does indeed act likea one-wire alternator. I don't like this for two reasons. One, it just looks wrong, and two, you lose the benefits of remote sensing.undee70ss said:You could run the "2" terminal back to main alternator line, all this does is mimic a one wire alternator. See pic
"1" terminal needs a positive that switches on with the ignition, if it was wired to Bat then yes it would drain the battery. Just to be certain make sure you are referencing the numbers on the back of the alternator and not wire colors.
No, it won't drain the battery unless the alternator is bad. A lot of cars came from the factory with the sense line tied right to the alternator B+ large terminal. They had a short red wire with an eyelet lug crimped on them to go onto the rear terminal. If I spot a real nice looking connector like that at the junkyard, they sometimes follow me home.sudolg said:I thought "Bat" would not work because then it will drain the battery when sitting, otherwise I would just run it to the main alternator line. I need a positive that switches on with the ignition from what I have read. Correct me if I am wrong.
It's low enough when the alternator isn't running to turn on the lamp. When the alternator starts working it goes high and turns off the lamp.sudolg said:OK. I'll try this. As long as the GEN light still works after I do this we're good to go. I actually thought that #1 grounded the "GEN" light...
Are you really, really sure you didn't have the unswitched battery line going to #1 instead of #2? That absolutely would drain the battery (the alternator will also get very hot to the touch just sitting). Ask me how I know...sudolg said:The problem is, I am getting a drain if I hook up to a source when not swiched by the ignition.
You can test for drain with a test light, with the key off, disconnect the positive battery cable and with the car not running hook the test light between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable. With all accessories off and any clocks or aftermarket radios disconnected the light should not light. If it does you still have a drain. If you think the alternator is draining it disconnect the flat blade connectors to see if the light goes out. That is a good place to put "2". It is the same place the factory put it in many cars. The fusible links are a good idea, in case of dead short the fusible link blows instead of frying the wires and maybe starting a fire.sudolg said:Number 1 was not even connected which perhaps was the problem. Now its connected to the idiot light so now maybe it won't drain. I didn't have a chance last night to mess with it. I'm going to put the #2 right to the splice between alternator and the line that goes to the fuse block. It just doesn't look natural to put it right to the main alternator line like pictured. I supose I should also solder in a fusible link as well since I don't have one.
Go heresudolg said:OK. I can't light the test light with the positive cable/terminal. However, I've got just under 5mA drain with the key off. Is this acceptable or is something wrong with the alt?