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Wiring a Street /Strip Vehicle

3704 Views 12 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Aaron
I need some help figuring out the best way to do this. Im not a electrician, but enjoy the tidy work of wiring a car or truck.

This is what Im working on and its goals.

My vehicle is a 87 S10 with a 500 horse 383, will be a Street / Strip truck. Its backhalfed. I plan to wire this truck for that purpose. I currently have cut the factory fuse block and wiring to only use what I need. I plan to use a auxiliary fuse block to run the rest of add ons and relays.

Here is what Im tiring to accomplish.

1. Battery relocation with Master Disconnect.
2. Use of a Auxiliary Fuse Block
3. Relays for Fuel, Water, and Electric Fans
4. Im trying to have the fuel and water pump work via switched power, like a street car, would do, but still have manual control via a toggle.
5. Im trying to have both auto and manual control of the fans. Auto the fans come on based on the sensor and Manual they come on when toggle flipped that way to cool down truck. Fans would stay on after flipping off the toggle to until the sensor switch opens.
6. Im also trying to take advantage of a oil pressure switch for safety reason as well.

Here is my diagram, hopefully you can read it.


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it maybe better to have the grounds from the relays go thru the toggle switches instead of the positive...
the MSD box should connect directly to the positive and negative battery terminals,
not going thru the shutoff switch. as there is an ignition wire to turn the MSD on and off.
i don't like to see a huge surge of power on/off at the MSD box...
i wired my fuel pump with redundant relays incase one failed the other could still handle the load.
my fuel pump is wired thru the oil pressure safety switch so when the ignition is on,
the fuel pump will run only with oil pressure=so if engine dies the pump shuts off.
i also needed to wire a bypass switch into this fuel pump circuit; to allow fuel pump to turn on;
when the car has set for a week or more to get fuel to the carb so it will start.
just a momentary pushbutton was needed to hold for 15-30 seconds to get enough fuel to carb.
then it is released and when oil pressure is detected the fuel pump turns on.
instead of circuit breakers i wired in fusible links...
i talked to Mark at Mad enterprise for my wiring diagram and ideas...
hope that helps some...
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Thanks Vince for your reply. I have included another diagram with the changes you suggested. Let me know if I understood you correctly.
so the aux fuse box is powered from the wrong terminal on the furd-solenoid.
it would only work when the starter is engaged.
you would not want to run the fusible links in series, should be wired in parallel.
it looks like you have the elec. water pump bypassing the rad. fans?
i would keep the [2] circuits seperate keeping the two rad. fans on a separate toggles to apply ground to the relays to activate the circuit.
i also planned for what happens if a fusible line burns out, by making extra and including them in the wiring harness, they are connected to power but not terminated with a wire out the other end...
Thanks Vince.

I made some of the described changes in the diagram attached.

Not sure I understand the fusible line burn out deal...could you explain more?

Please make comments on the diagram.
this is looking better; but i'm not sure about the ford relay wiring you show,
as both the factory and auxiliary fuse boxes should go to the battery side of the solenoid, &
both should be protected with a separate fusible link.
i would also wire in at the same factory and auxiliary fuse boxes a separate [unused] fusible link.
for safety and redundancy, so if something shorts out the primary fusible link, after you fix the shorting issue
another fusible link that is already there and unused can be wired in to take the place of the burnt fusible link quickly...keeping you from being stranded possibly?
therefore the main circuits are protected by a fusible link and an unused backup is also wired in repairs if ever needed.

this is basically how the ford relay/start solenoid is to be wired up, a NSS is required for the rules also...

most likely both of the electric fans are not needed all of the time, you could wire each to a toggle switch.

the oil pressure safety switch should be activated by power from the ignition switch so
it is activated as soon as the ignition is turned to on[same wire that also goes to the neutral start switch NSS]
also note the red terminal circled on your diagram should be from the ign/start switch only
it only triggers the starter...
see if you want to incorporate all of these changes into your next draft.
it is looking much better with these changes, as if will do what you want, when you want...
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you can have a fusible link inplace of the fuse on this diagram
for the oil pressure safety switch controlling the fuel pump

this is how the starter relay should be wired
yellow to the key switch comes from main fusebox which is protected by a fusible link...
coming from the key red/blue goes to NSS to S terminal on solenoid, that is the only wire going to S-terminal no fusible link need on this wire
the I terminal shown going to ign coil will not be used for you, nothing goes there..
red goes directly to the battery

here you should have 1-fusible link between the +12vdc battery input and the ''factory fuse block''
also here you should have 1-fusible link between the +12vdc battery input and the ''aux fuse block''
delete all [4] of the fusible links between the S-terminal and both fuse blocks, no needed for this...
the MSD box will be turned on by the +12vdc coming from the key switch [ign.]
the MSD box will have several wires going the the coil/distributor per their wire diagram.

only a battery cable going to the starter comes off the start solenoid, nothing else as power is only there for a few seconds while the starter is engaged

make these changes and i think you will be at your final draft of the s-10 wiring diagram :)
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Thanks Vince! I hope I get everything right there that you mention.

Im a little confused. The Auxiliary Box has a fusible link on the both the ignition wire and battery wire feeding it?

I also ran all the battery to either the battery spot on the FORD RELAY or to the Positive (+) side of the battery.

I also included the MSD wiring.
i think you are good now;
i would not use fusible links on 2-areas marked in red, delete them as not needed:)
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check out this link
i redid alot of the factory wiring years ago with Mark's help...
relays, fusible links, upgrade alternator, and much more :)
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