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Discussion Starter #1
Does any other wire need to be hooked up on the alt?New style alt did away with ext reg.I have a
wire running from the batt to the batt post on the
alt.Also have a jumper wire from the batt post on the alt running to the number 2 plug in on the alt
Do I need a wire running to the number 1 plug in
on the alt? There is also a small box with a hot
red wire coming off of it[I guess it's the horn relay???]it's next to the old reg on the drivers side by the head lights?I can take that red wire and hold it on the batt post on the alt and my volts go from 12.2 up to 14.2 I feel like just a wire off the batt is not enough to charge the car.
Im asking is this right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the help! A couple more things I need to know? Im not useing the factory gauges and if I understand correct the brown wire is for the factory gauges?So all I need is the blue wire going to the number 1 plug in on the alt?What does
the blue do??What is it's purpose?
Thanks, Driver Been out messing with this thing again and was wondering where does this blue wire come from? Off the fire wall? I found the brown,white and blue all coming from the fire wall all coming from the fuse box?Some one has added a large blue wire coming off the hot batt
going to the pass-side of the car tieing into a
a small post by the pass-side head lite.I followed
this wire and it runs into a small box that is on the drivers side close to the head lite.It has a large red wire that leads to the fuse box.It also has another red wire coming off it that has been cut off.Anybody?
 

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It's the wire from the bulkhead connector that you need. On your car it was the brown wire that originally went to the regulator. Wes does mention that you could clean up the wiring some by routing the brown wire directly to the new alternator instead of splicing the blue & brown together. However, splicing those two wires together is the faster way of doing it.
The brown wire has nothing to do with gages. It is a wire that comes off the ignition switch. On an idiot light car there's a light bulb in the line but that doesn't matter. Its purpose is to provide 12 volts to the alternator when you turn on the key. This 12 volts helps the alternator to start producing an output.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again!Did you catch the part about large wire coming off batt at pass-side of car tieing into another large wire running along the grill over to I guess you would call it horn relay.IT has a large red wire going to the bulk head.I can tie into this red wire and touch the batt post on the alt my volts go from 12 to 14.What should my volts be for a msd set up? I thought it should to more than 12.2??This car has had two motors,two msd box,2 dist,2 caps,2coils,2 carbs,4 sets of plug wires,many sets of plugs and 2 of everything eles and still has a cutting out miss.New batt 2
times as well.Went dead at the track last week went to jump start it ten mins later it started right back up on it's own like it never had a problem??Can;t figure the damn thing out.Keep thinking 12.2 volts is way low for a msd set up.
Starter is new as well.All wires are brand new as well.This missing thing between 2000 rpms-4000 rpms is real noticeable.Sometimes at track it does not do it and then next pass it will have a high rpm miss jerking and cutting out.Fuel system has been checked many times.Thanks for all your help.
 

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"Did you catch the part about large wire coming off batt at pass-side of car tieing into another large wire running along the grill over to I guess you would call it horn relay.IT has a large red wire going to the bulk head.I can tie into this red wire and touch the batt post on the alt my volts go from 12 to 14."

Missed that. There should be a wire going from the battery to the alternator. The horn relay terminal is used as a junction point to tie wires together. The large red wire that goes to the bulkhead connector is the wire that runs all the electrical items inside the car. So if I read you correctly, yes you need a lead on the alternator rear terminal (B+) going back to the horn relay junction.

"What should my volts be for a msd set up? I thought it should to more than 12.2??"

When the car isn't running the battery is about 12.2 volts? When the car is running the voltage is around 14.5 volts. MSD will operate at either voltage. Can't answer all your motor problems at the moment but when your alternator is running you should see around 14.5 volts out of it.
 

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"Did you catch the part about large wire coming off batt at pass-side of car tieing into another large wire running along the grill over to I guess you would call it horn relay.IT has a large red wire going to the bulk head.I can tie into this red wire and touch the batt post on the alt my volts go from 12 to 14."

Missed that. There should be a wire going from the battery to the alternator. The horn relay terminal is used as a junction point to tie wires together. The large red wire that goes to the bulkhead connector is the wire that runs all the electrical items inside the car. So if I read you correctly, yes you need a lead on the alternator rear terminal (B+) going back to the horn relay junction.

"What should my volts be for a msd set up? I thought it should to more than 12.2??"

When the car isn't running the battery is about 12.2 volts? When the car is running the voltage is around 14.5 volts. MSD will operate at either voltage. Can't answer all your motor problems at the moment but when your alternator is running you should see around 14.5 volts out of it.
 

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"Did you catch the part about large wire coming off batt at pass-side of car tieing into another large wire running along the grill over to I guess you would call it horn relay.IT has a large red wire going to the bulk head.I can tie into this red wire and touch the batt post on the alt my volts go from 12 to 14."

Missed that. There should be a wire going from the battery to the alternator. The horn relay terminal is used as a junction point to tie wires together. The large red wire that goes to the bulkhead connector is the wire that runs all the electrical items inside the car. So if I read you correctly, yes you need a lead on the alternator rear terminal (B+) going back to the horn relay junction.

"What should my volts be for a msd set up? I thought it should to more than 12.2??"

When the car isn't running the battery is about 12.2 volts? When the car is running the voltage is around 14.5 volts. MSD will operate at either voltage. Can't answer all your motor problems at the moment but when your alternator is running you should see around 14.5 volts out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thats a big help!!I though something other than the wire coming off the battery going to the b+ on the back of the alt was not enough to charge the whole system.The way I seen it, it was only
keeping the battery up.Let me try to give a better run down of how this car is working.Battery
in the rear with a very large cable running up to the pass-side fire wall hooked up to a thru-panel connector.All the msd connections,extra fuse panel,starter,ignition wire and off the fuse panel I have electric fans and other things such as water pump.The only thing going to the alt was a wire off the hot battery to the b+ on the alt and the jumper off the b+ to the #2 pin.All I know is that I can take a wire off the red wire[ horn relay] and touch it to the b+ on the alt and my volts go up way over 14 when the car is runnig.Take it off while runnig it goes back down to 12.2.So you say this wire should be hooked up like this?? I was worried about burning something up so I held off on doing this.About the motor I just stated that saying everthing is new and didn't think it was the problem.Still think it's somewhere in the charging or ignition.Thanks a bunch maybe I'll figure this thing out after two years.Your in -put has helped a lot.
 

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The original red wire, on the horn relay needs 12 volts. This red wire is the one that runs up the left fender to the firewall. This red wire is the one that feeds the original fuse block. OK, what do I think you have:
Since your car is starting, I assume you have another fuse panel installed in the car. It sounds like it. The extra fuse panel sounds like it is tied to your new wiring and somehow the 2 fuse panels are tied together. Otherwise I don't see how things work.

First try and hook up the wire (blue/brown) to the #1 terminal. It has a purpose to help start the alternator after it sits for awhile. Check the output out of the alternator after you do that.
Next with the car running check the voltage at the battery. That should be near 14 volts. Otherwise the battery won't charge.

"The only thing going to the alt was a wire off the hot battery to the b+ on the alt"
It sounds like you already ran a large lead from the rear battery to the front of the car. "very large cable running up to the pass-side fire wall hooked up to a thru-panel connector." Why run another wire from the alternator B+ to battery+ in the rear? Move that wire from the rear battery+ to the front of that very large cable thru-panel connector in the front of the car. You don't need 2 wires running to the rear. The large one can serve two purposes and the battery will charge better. Make some sense?
May end up moving the wire on #2 connection later on but make those couple changes first.
 

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Why run another wire from the alternator B+ to battery+ in the rear?
Maybe because of teh location of his disconnect switch?

Mine has a wire from the hot batt to the batt alt
which does the job.A speed shop done mine and Im not so sure it's the right way to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK,here is what I did so far.I have been trying many different things for the past three days and
I already tried what you said.I just tried it again.Took off the wire running from the batt to the b+ on the alt,hooked up the brown wire on the #1 pin on the alt.With car running at batt I had a little less than 12 volts.Put the wire back on the b+ on alt it reads 13.5 running.Take it back off and hook up a heavy wire off the main feed red wire[horn relay]I get 14.5 volts.One reason we had a wire running from the batt to the b+ alt was for the kill switch.The only thing that I have noticed with the brown on #1 pin is with the key on the gen light comes on.No difference in volts one way or the other.Thanks
 

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I'm really confused on your wiring.

You have a "big" power wire coming from the battery to the firewall. This is the power for all your accessories, right? What size?

You also have another wire running from the alternator B+ terminal back to the battery, right? What size?

Then, do you also have a 3rd main power wire running up to the starter solenoid or is this the same wire as the first one above? If you do, what size?

How or where is the origional power wiring connected to the new power feed? Origionally, A wire would have run from the battery across the rad support to the horn relay. Then, wire would split off and go to the alternator and firewall connector to power the fuse box.

Where are you reading the voltage?

Finally, measure the voltages at the alternator terminal, battery and fuse box.

Please answer all of the above to get more help. Now, I will speculate on the possible problem.

I believe the wires running back and forwards from the battery aren't heavy enough for the length of the wire which is creating a voltage drop so that the voltage is low. The alternator is producing 14V on it's terminal but by the time you read the voltage on the run to the battery and back you only get the 12V where you're reading it.

For a power run that long I'd expect you will need about #6 or #8 power wire to support the voltage.

If I understand what you're trying to do you only need 2 runs for the battery. You need the big starter cable running to the solenoid. Then, you connect all of the power feeds off of this wire at the solenoid end and you put your disconnect on this wire in the trunk. This wire will probably have to be 2/0 or heavier. Then, you run another wire from the B+ on the alternator back to the battery. This wire will probably have to be #6.

Finally, the problem with it not starting was most likely due to the solenoid being hot. With the wiring you have the solenoid probably wasn't getting enough voltage to energize it.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK! Battery to fire wall,high grade#1gauge copper cable capable of handling 250 amps.
2]Wire from batt to alt b+ is a # 8.
3]Main power feed.Aheavy duty wire #8coming off
the fire wall running off the large batt cable which ties into the origional wire going across the rad support to the horn relay.Red wire splits off like you said going to the fuse box no wire from the horn relay going to the alt.This is what I have been trying to find out?Do I need to have a hook from the relay over to the alt b+?
I have checked the volts everwhere in the car for the past three days and it depends on how I hook up the wires on the alt.The origional way I stated ,wire from batt to b+ alt and jumper wire from b+ to # 2 pin with car running volts read thru out the car 13.5.Now hook up the red wire coming off the horn relay it reads 14.5 thru out the car.The starter wire is the origional purple wire which is also a heavy duty wire.I have a deluxe fuse block on the pass side which runs off the thru panel connector[main power off the large cable from trunk]it works fine never blowed any fuses or had any problems.Wanted to know if I need to have a wire coming off the horn relay going to the b+ on the alt?? Thanks,Driver
I hope I gave enough info?
 

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Whole lotta info. I'm looking at this sentence.
"Main power feed.Aheavy duty wire #8coming off the fire wall running off the large batt cable which ties into the origional wire going across the rad support to the horn relay"
Can I assume that this lead ties to the original junction block that is located next to the original battery location? What happens if you jumper alternator B+ to the original junction block? Thinking bad dirty connection on the junction block.
I wouldn't be unhappy with 13.5 volts at the battery. I wouldn't expect jumping alternator B+ to horn relay to cause the alternator to go up a volt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
John,you got it right,tieing into the junction box
next to where the battery use to be.Jumping off that red horn relay wire does bring the volts up one whole volt.I was ging to run it that way for a test but now the kill switch won't work when I run this extra wire.I can't figure why it don't kill the motor with-out being hooked up to the b+ alt since the large red cable coming off the batt feeds everthing coming off the fire wall,msd hot wire for ignition and starter.
 

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It won't shut off because as someone mentioned above, you have your kill switch installed in the battery+ to alternator B+ line. By adding the jumper from alternator B+ to the horn relay, you gave it another path to operate.
Still try jumping alternator B+ to the junction block. If the wire from the junction block to the horn relay is OK you shouldn't see voltage go up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So which way do I go? Run a wire off the horn relay to the B+ alt and do away with the one running from the batt or don't run a wire off the relay and leave it like it is? I have not ran a jumper off the juction to the b+ alt yet but I will in the morning.I do get a full volt from the jumper from the horn relay to the b+ alt.Just
wanted to thank you for spending so much time and
energy on this problem.Thanks Again
 

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Don't give up on the wiring as you have it yet. We still may be able to get it working for you.

When you say "with car running volts read thru out the car 13.5" you mean everywhere? Battery, fuse block, horn relay, new fuse block etc?

You've got heavy enough wires that you shouldn't be seeing a 1V drop between the alternator and that bulkhead connector you have.

Starting with you origional wiring follow these steps;
Take the meter and measure between the battery bulkhead connector and the Batt post on the alternator.
voltage =

Take the #2 wire that is jumered to the Batt. terminal on the alternator and connect it to the horn relay. Post the voltages at the;
battery terminals =
bulkhead connector =
horn relay =
origional fuse box =

I want to see what these voltage are to know that this isn't going to fry anything.

It may sound like I'm being a pain asking for all these voltages but it's just that I've done enough customer service to know that unless the person provides details I can't completely trust what they're telling me. When you say all voltages read xx.xV I really don't know what you mean by "all voltages". Nothing personal.

Peter
 

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Yep Peter is seeing the same thing. Fixing wiring over the net can be sometimes a little difficult. Without standing over the car sometimes the obvious gets missed for awhile. The 13.5 isn't a bad output out of the alternator. However, it shouldn't behave like it is. That is, adding the jumper from alternator B+ to the horn relay shouldn't make it go up a volt. I'm guessing that there is a problem with the wire between the junction block and the horn relay. Peter is asking for measurements to see if that or something else is the problem. Have a thought about moving the sense line but first the 1 volt drop problem needs to be fixed. (And you do need #1 wire hooked up at some point. I will cause another problem later on.)
 
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