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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any tricks to getting the studs for the windshield trim and back window welded in. I'm finding that to get the stud down deep enough in the channel I have to angle the stud gun slightly which in turn causes the stud to be at a slight angle vs the original studs. It probably won't hurt but thought there might be some trick or additional attachment for the stud gun. If I tap on them hard enough to bend them down they will break loose.

Also are there any issues doing the ones at the top of the channel or the rear window channel?

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I've never used one. I've had great success just using a #8 self tapper to locate the clip. Drill the hold, back out, blow out the shavings, put a dab of teflon in the hole and run the screw back in. My '68 Cutlass survivor used this technique on the driver's side, the studs on the passenger. No repaint, straight from the factory. They apparently forgot to stud the driver's side. Interesting, the passenger side showed more surface rust around the studs then the driver's. Clip should bottom out on the flat.
 

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1969 Grand Prix. 455 TH400 12 bolt.
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Screw ins are a popular option. Riveting clips is another. I don't like the idea of holes either though, but the OE style has it's share of drawbacks. To answer the question, a shrinking tip for your stud gun might be what you are after. I haven't messed with them since where I work it is most often just use screw ins where replacement is a must, and thats after me in the process. I have nothing against the screw ins. Only tidbits I could add are did you try it with a stud in the gun and there are marks on original window beds indicating where each stud goes.
 

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Use a small drill bit for the holes if you go with screw in studs. You need a tight fit for the stud screws to help eliminate water leaks.

Rick

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Screw ins are a popular option. Riveting clips is another. I don't like the idea of holes either though, but the OE style has it's share of drawbacks. To answer the question, a shrinking tip for your stud gun might be what you are after. I haven't messed with them since where I work it is most often just use screw ins where replacement is a must, and thats after me in the process. I have nothing against the screw ins. Only tidbits I could add are did you try it with a stud in the gun and there are marks on original window beds indicating where each stud goes.
I'd prefer to weld the studs in rather than drilling holes also. The stud gun has the the tip and slotted shield to allow it to get close in but given the height of the dash I still need to angle it a bit. For stud placement, the windshield channel has some of the studs still there on the upper and lower so I'm filling in the gaps.

I looked at the ReplaceRust.com drawings as a guide but my existing studs are placed slightly different on my '67. I believe they say there drawings came from an original '66 so maybe they changed it slightly for '67. For example they show 8 upper windshield studs and it looks like I'll have 10 if I evenly place them. The 3 of the outer studs were still in place on each side so that's my starting point. Since the studs don't appear to be very consistend side to side in their drawings I wonder if it was a hand operation. On the rear window I have a few of the upper studs still in place but need to install the C pillar and filler panel studs. I'm planning on using their drawings as a guide for those. Also I noticed their newer drawing shows the windshield studs out 1/4" from the channel and the rear out 5/16" from the channel. In measuring the originals on my lower windshield channel there's a little variation. The original studs on the drive side are pretty close to 1/4" but the original studs on the passenger side are closer to 5/16".

I found that if I tap the stud on the head with an angled hammer I can move head a little to bring it more parallel with the channel. Before I was tapping it sideways and that didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just noticed on the roof flange for the windshield and the rear glass it has triangle marks stamped into it. I would bet those are where the trim studs are supposed to be placed. The original studs that I still have are a bit of a hodgepodge but most of them are kind of close to where the triangles are.

Has any one else noticed the triangle stamping and compared their original studs to them?
 

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1969 Grand Prix. 455 TH400 12 bolt.
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Yes. They are approximate and also present on other makes. Windshield trim stud guy on the assembly line went fast, shooting for at the triangles.
 

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Is it possible to grind a flat on one side of the tip of the gun without damaging the gun, to create more clearance? One of my friends did some major grinding to customize a steel rivet rivet gun to allow the head of it to fit down inside a headlamp bucket retaining spring, so they can be installed with the rivet head inside the spring as per factory (rather than with the head on the other side of the radiator support which was the only way to do it without the customized tool).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is it possible to grind a flat on one side of the tip of the gun without damaging the gun, to create more clearance? One of my friends did some major grinding to customize a steel rivet rivet gun to allow the head of it to fit down inside a headlamp bucket retaining spring, so they can be installed with the rivet head inside the spring as per factory (rather than with the head on the other side of the radiator support which was the only way to do it without the customized tool).
Possibly, but I borrowed the stud welder from a friend so I really don't want to modify it. It has the correct slotted collar and tip that H&S Autoshot recommends for installing trim studs. I completed the windshied and they look like they'll work. I need to get the clips to be sure.

 
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