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Will this work?

757 Views 2 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  rustbucket79
Im fixing on running my valves again on my big block chevy "hydroclic cam" my question is can I turn the motor over by hand on each cylinder and perform the EOIC method per cylinder and keep rotating as i move to the next cylinder? Or should i just do the "Get number 1 at TDC (at the end of the compression cycle) and are ready to adjust some valves. With the cam in this position, the valves for the number 1 piston are fully closed. Another way to say this is that the lifters for the number 1 cylinder are on the base circle.
When you adjust the valves, don't use a deep socket! By using a standard socket, the socket shouldn't touch the pivot ball. If it does touch the ball, it is harder to get a accurate feel.
Adjust the #1 cylinders valves;
You want to hold the push-rod and notice that it's loose (or at least should be at this point). As you adjust the rocker down, you will remove the slop. You now want to tighten it down an additional 1/4 turn.
Yes, it's that simple. Except you have to keep in mind what you are doing. The idea is that you are tightening everything down just until the slop is gone. If you read instructions wrong and adjust down until you can't rotate the push-rod with your fingers, you have compressed the internals of the lifter and bottomed out it's plunger. If you then go that additional 1/4 turn, the valves are ALWAYS open and the engine will not start. (this is a BTDT item)!
You want to adjust both of the valves for the cylinder in question.
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
You are going to the mark that you put on the harmonic balancer.
Adjust the #8 cylinders valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #4 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #3 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Your timing mark should now be back on TDC! If it isn't, then you messed up somewhere and you should start over.
Adjust the #6 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #5 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #7 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #2 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
You had better be back at the TDC point or you made a mistake!
You are done!

Im not good at this gear head stuff so break it down for me please!
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Im fixing on running my valves again on my big block chevy "hydroclic cam" my question is can I turn the motor over by hand on each cylinder and perform the EOIC method per cylinder and keep rotating as i move to the next cylinder? Or should i just do the "Get number 1 at TDC (at the end of the compression cycle) and are ready to adjust some valves. With the cam in this position, the valves for the number 1 piston are fully closed. Another way to say this is that the lifters for the number 1 cylinder are on the base circle.
When you adjust the valves, don't use a deep socket! By using a standard socket, the socket shouldn't touch the pivot ball. If it does touch the ball, it is harder to get a accurate feel.
Adjust the #1 cylinders valves;
You want to hold the push-rod and notice that it's loose (or at least should be at this point). As you adjust the rocker down, you will remove the slop. You now want to tighten it down an additional 1/4 turn.
Yes, it's that simple. Except you have to keep in mind what you are doing. The idea is that you are tightening everything down just until the slop is gone. If you read instructions wrong and adjust down until you can't rotate the push-rod with your fingers, you have compressed the internals of the lifter and bottomed out it's plunger. If you then go that additional 1/4 turn, the valves are ALWAYS open and the engine will not start. (this is a BTDT item)!
You want to adjust both of the valves for the cylinder in question.
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
You are going to the mark that you put on the harmonic balancer.
Adjust the #8 cylinders valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #4 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #3 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Your timing mark should now be back on TDC! If it isn't, then you messed up somewhere and you should start over.
Adjust the #6 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #5 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #7 cylinder valves; (drivers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
Adjust the #2 cylinder valves; (passengers side)
Rotate the engine 90 degrees;
You had better be back at the TDC point or you made a mistake!
You are done!
Im not good at this gear head stuff so break it down for me please!
The method you printed in bold works for all but the rowdiest hyd cams out there. The hyd lifter is designed to have a wide area of adjustment and funtion correctly unless it is a special fast bleed style.

That method will also work for the initial break in of most solid cams, but I do like to use the EOIC after the cam is broken in. Believe me, the difference is minimal at best.
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