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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can somebody help me? I'm having a problem with my motor not wanting to idle, its a 350 0.30 flat tops,I'm using a top end kit from edel performer rpm 410 hp,got it in the car,started,ran it for 30 min at 2200 rpm, now I can't get it to stay on it starts fine timing is very close, using a 650 edel carb thought it might be the problem changed it but same thing,using a accel distributor with a super coil, thought might be it put a new one in,[same coil] same thing could it be a vac problem? the cam reads [ duration at .050" lift int 234 exh 244 lift at cam int .325" exh .340" lift at valve int .488" exh .510" lobe sep 112" int center 107"] it has 3000 stall, I can start the car revs nice but it'll pop every now and then, I set the idle screw to 1000 rpm, will run but after a few min will get rough and die, removed #3 spark plug and it was powdery black, this is not my first rodeo, what am i doing wrong???:sad: any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Whats the base & total timing set at?

If your carb is ok and there are no apparent vacuum leaks i bet your not running enough base timing which is a very common thing to happen when peopleminstall a perf cam esp a lrg cam in a relatively small 350 motor.

That 234deg dur @.05 cam your running is pretty lrg for a 350 sbc and it needs no less then 18-20 base timing with that long duration cam.

So have someone hold the throttle open just enogh to hold a 600-650 rpm idle and set the base timing to 18-20. Make sure to keep backing off the idle speed to 600-650 rpm when your advancing the timing.

Keeping the idle low keeps the mech adv in the dist from partially activating with too high of an idle so it doesnt upset the base timing setting.

Also make sure remove and plug the vac adv when setting /checking total timing and then reattachit post timing adj. Hook it to full int vacuum all the time with the lrg cam your running. Lrg cams in small motors need the additional timing to idle decent too.

You will also need to reset idle speed and idle mixture post any timing changes.

With 18 base timing your looking for 36-38 deg max total timing at 2800-3k rpm . If total goes over 38 above 3k rpm then you need to have the mech adv in the dist recurved for 18 deg all in by 2800 rpms.

Then 18 -20 base + 18 mech adv in the dist = 36-38 deg total all in by 2800-3k rpms.

You should be using 93 fuel with this perf ign curve when you 1st set it up but with your lrg cam the cyl pressue may not be too high you could possibly get away with 91 or maybe even 89 but thats not likely.

But dont just retartd the total if its over 38 deg @ 3k rpm because for every deg the total is retarded the base timing is also retarded that same degree of timing and you right back to where you started.

Retarded base timing results in wasted fuel/poor throttle responce/lost power/and in some cases the motor run's hotter too.

Lastly,you mentioned the plugs are powdery black ,that means they are already fuel fouled so you need to replace them ASAP because they will misfire or not fire altogether very soon since they are already black/carbon & or fuel fouled. That over rich mix can be caused by overly retarded timing base timing causing carb issue when it comes to the p/valve opeing early when out of the idle circut and into the main metering circut. But again you have to replace thoses already black/fould plugs or they will sne dyou chasing your tail with misfires or completely missing cylenders.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey scott, thanks for the reply, Im not sure i understand everything about total & retard timing, but what i did was after breakin was pluged the vac and set time @ 10 on the tab, had to keep it at about 1000 rpm to do so, one thing i did not mention was the erratic rpm,will i need a harmonic balancer with degrees all around to get to where i need to be? hope i did'nt make a mistake with this setup,i just want be able to cruise and burn the hek out of my tires every now and then, i dont race the car, but i just want the power there:D any more info is greatly welcome, i dont want to be on the porch, i want to run with the puppy's :yes: then maybe one day, you know.:thumbsup: thanks scott.
 

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I've got the Eddy RPM Performer top end on my 327 with 750 CFM Eddy 1407 carb and only a 2400-2500 RPM stall.

Scott is spot on about needing more initial timing. I am running 16* initial, it's just at the point where the starter wants to fight it. I've got 34* full advance, which if you follow the math makes for 18* of mechanical advance. (I am in a bit of a mental debate on whether to bump the initial 2 degrees and see if it kicks back more or simply add 2 degrees to mechanical for a total of 36.) I run 22 degrees of vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum -- which is the port on the driver's side.

I am idling at 850 RPM in drive and making about 10" of vacuum. The car is really clean at idle and very responsive coming off if idle.

You can get timing tape or buy/borrow a dial back light to set your timing.
 

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Hi Zeke,if your motor is kicking back at 16 deg that could mean you have a weak and or non high trq starter,have a weak battery or need a battery with more cold cranking amps(700 or more CCA),weak alternator,corroded/bad connectios at starter/grounds from frame to body and body to motor,or bad connection at main hot wire running through the horn relay.

So if you try adv the bsae to 18 deg and it responds well but have hot start issues check out all the items i mentioned above and you should be able to get it squared away.

But make sure to run a starter brace if you block has provision for it when running 18 deg base timing. If the block has no provision for a starter brace at least make sure the starter bolts are good and tight so the starter doesn't move if the motor kicks back and breaks the starter nose or worse yet breaks/snaps the starter mount pad area off the block.

Scott
 

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Scott,

It's not kicking back, but you can tell it's close.

It's not a high torque starter, battery is new but not big, alternator checks out okay, grounds are in place and good.

I have the Ford solenoid conversion. I have no hot start issues. I do not have the starter brace.

I may either try 18* initial or adjust the mechanical to get 36* at full advance. I set up the distributor with 18* mechanical so that I could give 18* initial. Right now, I have a really good tune up and I'm idling at 850 RPM in drive with a clean exhaust -- so I figure when add more initial?

In any event, the original poster with the same cam as mine needs add more timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi scott, this is david, thanks for the info on my timing issue, but know i drove the car down the street and my tranny does not shift like before i cant hardly feel it shift, takes longer to shift where as before it changed gears pretty srtong and quick, it has a mild shift kit and i changed the torque converter to a b&m 3000 from a tci 2000 it a TH 400 do not have the wire hooked up to it but do have the vac, any ideas??:confused: still need to fine tune,engine but thanks to guys got it to idle.
 
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