[cranberryredchevelle454]

i noticed this when i first got the car a few months ago.

when i first put the new battery in my car today and started it, it was idling high or well it seemed faster (my cars not cammed but normally it would sound like: chop...chop...chop..., but when i first started it it was like: CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP, till i noticed it, revel it and it seemed to idle lower. then when i drove the car on the street, i bearly gave it any gas and when i let off to stop at a stop sign in stalled, i turned the key back and started it again, i drove a little and took my foot off the gas and it stalled again (i bearly was pressing the pedal thought, i would imaging the car was still in first at around 2,000rpm), as i turned the key back and started it again after lining up to park i stopped the car and the car stalled again.

i’m assuming the car isn’t timed right and it’s idle is set really low. how can i set the idle higher. shouldn’t it idle around 1,000rpm normally?

i also noticed if i rev the engine it drops back down randomly where ever it wants but most of the time it stalls and the car turns off.

 

[TwoBuzzards]

The carburetor probably has a "fast idle" feature, in addition to some kind of choke (manual or automatic electric). Once the motor warms up some, it'll revert to it's regular idle, which is slower.

The regular idle setting will be on the little arm that the accelerator cable hooks to. It should look like a screw with a spring around it. If you can ID the carburetor (or just post a pic of it), we could probably point you toward its manual and get more exact info.

As for timing, that's also worth checking. You'll need a timing light, which aren't very expensive (O'Reilly's should have em). You'll want the slightly fancier one where you can dial in an advance, just because that makes life a little easier.

Anything but the real simple stuff like tweaking the idle, you'll want to make sure you know what you're doing (at least the basics) and know what detonation sounds like. This stuff isn't hard, but if you get it too wrong, you can wreck the motor.

 

[mark f]

Kyal, go to E Bay and find a Chilton's service manual for your car, and study it front to back. Don't do anything to your car until you have do so. the next step is to do a You Tube search on how to time a car with distributor type ignition. After that do a search to find out how to set Idle and adjust choke on a four barrel carburetor. Study these until know the material frontwards and backwards and then come back here and ask your questions.
Just like anything other learning in life, you need to do some studying.
Starting and driving a carbureted car is very different from a modern fuel injected car. You must "set the choke" and allow the car to warm up a bit before taking off.
Be patient, you will learn this stuff soon enough.

 

[bry66]

Does it still stall out after it's fully warmed up? Or does it only do it when the engine is still cold?

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to check your ignition timing, but when this needs to be adjusted it's usually because parts in the distributor have worn due to the car being driven. If your car has just been sitting, then the timing is going to be exactly where the last guy left it. One thing that can get messed up while a car is sitting is the choke....if your choke/fast idle isn't working properly then you'll have issues stalling in cold weather exactly like what you're experiencing.

If you were doing a full tune-up then usually you'd set the timing first. But based on your circumstances, let's assume for now that your timing is probably ok and look to your carburetor first. The internet is full of youtube videos and other resources that'll help walk you through how to tune a carburetor. Do you know what kind of carb is on your car? If not, remove the air cleaner and post a picture of it and we can help point you in the right direction.

But don't go messing with your carb just yet. There are a handful of different settings that you can adjust, but often when you adjust one thing it will throw the others off. Best thing you can do for now is figure out exactly what kind of carburetor you have, then spend some time online reading and watching videos to get an understanding of how your carburetor works and how to adjust it. THEN you can begin troubleshooting and making adjustments.

 

[boyd66k20]

Take a picture of your carburetor with the air cleaner off. It should idle higher on a cold start up, then as it warms it should idle down to around 800- 900rpms. All that is with an automatic choke. Sounds like when it warms up the rpms are a bit low. Easy adjustment but,
We need a picture to help you out more.

 

[Malibu70]

@KyalOliver could you post the model of carburetor, whether a factory Rochester or an aftermarket Holley or Edelbrock? All are fairly simple to adjust the idle speed.
If you have an Edelbrock carb, here is the manual for the Edelbrock 1406-series carburetor adjustments. Holley also provides manuals online for their carb models.

 

[Nothingbut69]

Take a picture and we'll show you where and how to adjust it... Your throttle return spring may be to small it the idle is dropping slow when you let off the gas, could be other things but we'll start with the simplest.

 

[zeke67]

Hi Kyal, is this happening right after you pulled it out of storage at your Dad's GF's house in Michigan? Or was it doing it three months ago when you parked it? You get a lot of credit for assuming it's timing first and carb second, but quite possible that in a Michigan winter it's your choke setting. Ensure the car is FULLY warmed up before you start playing with timing or carb adjustments. It could be the choke adjustment and high idle setting (which is choke related.)

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

The carburetor probably has a "fast idle" feature, in addition to some kind of choke (manual or automatic electric). Once the motor warms up some, it'll revert to it's regular idle, which is slower.

The regular idle setting will be on the little arm that the accelerator cable hooks to. It should look like a screw with a spring around it. If you can ID the carburetor (or just post a pic of it), we could probably point you toward its manual and get more exact info.

As for timing, that's also worth checking. You'll need a timing light, which aren't very expensive (O'Reilly's should have em). You'll want the slightly fancier one where you can dial in an advance, just because that makes life a little easier.

Anything but the real simple stuff like tweaking the idle, you'll want to make sure you know what you're doing (at least the basics) and know what detonation sounds like. This stuff isn't hard, but if you get it too wrong, you can wreck the motor.

i’m gonna try and do my research on it and learn as much as i can. i just installed a tachometer in the car and it was easy and rewarding. this is the type of stuff that motivates me to keep playing with the car, but when it won’t start and i can’t figure out why... well that another story. luckily the car is alive and well, one i install my oil, volt, temperature gauge, then i’ll try and tune the car that way it should be easier to understand what’s going on rather than playing it by ear

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

Kyal, go to E Bay and find a Chilton's service manual for your car, and study it front to back. Don't do anything to your car until you have do so. the next step is to do a You Tube search on how to time a car with distributor type ignition. After that do a search to find out how to set Idle and adjust choke on a four barrel carburetor. Study these until know the material frontwards and backwards and then come back here and ask your questions.
Just like anything other learning in life, you need to do some studying.
Starting and driving a carbureted car is very different from a modern fuel injected car. You must "set the choke" and allow the car to warm up a bit before taking off.
Be patient, you will learn this stuff soon enough.

tbh i didn’t even know you could control idle or air to fuel ratio from a carburetor... sounds stupid but the thought never surface in my mind, i definitely will read into this because i found black stuff on my spark plugs the other day and freaked out but it turns out my car was just running rich. so my cars running rich and has a low idle.... yea i definitely need to tune my carb before i get it back on the road

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

Does it still stall out after it's fully warmed up? Or does it only do it when the engine is still cold?

I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to check your ignition timing, but when this needs to be adjusted it's usually because parts in the distributor have worn due to the car being driven. If your car has just been sitting, then the timing is going to be exactly where the last guy left it. One thing that can get messed up while a car is sitting is the choke....if your choke/fast idle isn't working properly then you'll have issues stalling in cold weather exactly like what you're experiencing.

If you were doing a full tune-up then usually you'd set the timing first. But based on your circumstances, let's assume for now that your timing is probably ok and look to your carburetor first. The internet is full of youtube videos and other resources that'll help walk you through how to tune a carburetor. Do you know what kind of carb is on your car? If not, remove the air cleaner and post a picture of it and we can help point you in the right direction.

But don't go messing with your carb just yet. There are a handful of different settings that you can adjust, but often when you adjust one thing it will throw the others off. Best thing you can do for now is figure out exactly what kind of carburetor you have, then spend some time online reading and watching videos to get an understanding of how your carburetor works and how to adjust it. THEN you can begin troubleshooting and making adjustments.

tbh it’s probably because i never let it warm up and here two reasons why. the first time i tried to hurry and move the car to the back of my house in the alley and do an oil change because the oil was watery and secondly the car ended up dying, i moved in in neutral to a parking lot behind my house, i had to get a new battery and i had to hurry again and move it back infront of the house.... now that i have the car running somewhat fine i’m gonna just do the oil change and then be able to

Take a picture and we'll show you where and how to adjust it... Your throttle return spring may be to small it the idle is dropping slow when you let off the gas, could be other things but we'll start with the simplest.

i’ll take a picture tomorrow morning and show you all

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

@KyalOliver could you post the model of carburetor, whether a factory Rochester or an aftermarket Holley or Edelbrock? All are fairly simple to adjust the idle speed.
If you have an Edelbrock carb, here is the manual for the Edelbrock 1406-series carburetor adjustments. Holley also provides manuals online for their carb models.

yes it’s a edelbrock, i’m not sure what type but i’ll read into the link you sent and i’ll send a picture tomkrrow

 

[Kevin McCaffrey]

Here are a few videos that will get you started on Edelbrock's.

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

Here are a few videos that will get you started on Edelbrock's.

thank you 👍

 

[Capt Casey]

You're gettin there young fella...give yourself a pat on the back for what you have done thus far and then...Get back to work!
kidding...

 

[cranberryredchevelle454]

You're gettin there young fella...give yourself a pat on the back for what you have done thus far and then...Get back to work!
kidding...

😂 thank you, i feel bipolar with this car, one day i wanna work on it, one day i wanna sell it. let’s hope i can eventually lean more on keeping the car

 

[japete92]

i noticed this when i first got the car a few months ago.

when i first put the new battery in my car today and started it, it was idling high or well it seemed faster (my cars not cammed but normally it would sound like: chop...chop...chop..., but when i first started it it was like: CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP CHOP, till i noticed it, revel it and it seemed to idle lower. then when i drove the car on the street, i bearly gave it any gas and when i let off to stop at a stop sign in stalled, i turned the key back and started it again, i drove a little and took my foot off the gas and it stalled again (i bearly was pressing the pedal thought, i would imaging the car was still in first at around 2,000rpm), as i turned the key back and started it again after lining up to park i stopped the car and the car stalled again.

i’m assuming the car isn’t timed right and it’s idle is set really low. how can i set the idle higher. shouldn’t it idle around 1,000rpm normally?

i also noticed if i rev the engine it drops back down randomly where ever it wants but most of the time it stalls and the car turns off.

Kyal,

Some general thoughts on the posts you have on-going:

You NEED a few basic 'tools':

1. simple timing light. one that flashes when it gets a signal. No more, no less. something like: Actron CP7527 Actron Inductive Timing Lights | Summit Racing.

2. 'feeler' gauge. Something like: Feeler Gauge, 32 Pc.

3. A dwell/rpm meter. Something like:https://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-UT...ywords=dwell+tach+meter&qid=1613075354&sr=8-5

Those allow you to do your own tune-ups and troubleshooting. They will pay for themselves very quickly.

IF (emphasis on IF) the car has never run properly during your ownership, do NOT assume anything is 'right'. NEVER underestimate the ability of previous owners to futz things up.

The trouble shooting sequence for your poor performance that I recommend is; get the ignition (all aspects) correct (VERIFIED correct) before futzing with the carb.

A comprehensive tune up (all do-it-yourself stuff) may resolve many of your issues.

Pete