[Dave Murdoch]

I've been having an intermittent problem for a year or so that is getting worse. I used to think it was from trying to start the car while engine was hot, but yesterday this finally happened on a cold engine:

I turn key to start the car and get a click. At that point, the whole car is dead, no dome light, horn, etc. I remove the positive battery cable from the battery and let it sit for a few minutes. Reconnect the positive cable and power is back, dome light on, car starts.

This has happened with the old battery and a brand new one.

On a related question, is it OK to use a stainless nut and bolt for battery cable clamp (to tighten the lead (Pb) battery cable terminal around the positive battery post)?

I'm not sure what other info. anybody might need to help diagnose this. Thanks-Dave

 

[yellow heap]

I would check the positive cable from the BAT to the starter and the engine to frame/body cables
A cable can be permiting a little juice to flow but when the amps go up(hit the starter)the conection heats up to the point the resistance shuts the flow
I have also seen the Main connector on the firewall do this but 99% of the time its a cable

 

[1Fast7D]

I turn key to start the car and get a click. At that point, the whole car is dead, no dome light, horn, etc. I remove the positive battery cable from the battery and let it sit for a few minutes. Reconnect the positive cable and power is back, dome light on, car starts.

See the pic below to see how electricity gets to the dash area. I would also check your fusible links, connections at the junction block and the horn relay, making sure they are rust free, clean and tight.

 

[Dave Murdoch]

Thanks, I know I'm gonna have to tear into the starting circuit and look at things, I was hoping that the symptoms were so strange it pointed to something specific. I have checked the positive cable from BAT to starter and seems fine. What do yall think about the stainless hardware on the BAT post?

Dave.

 

[Dean]

Symptom sounds like a bad connection of the Positive battery cable if removing it and putting it back on made everything work again and that's all you did.

BTW, engine to frame/body cables have nothing to do with the starter operation, it gets it's ground through the negative battery cable bolted to the engine.

 

[658Chevy]

I had the same problem that would creep up every month or so. The starter would click and nothing else. I'd take off the positive terminal, clean it with a wire brush, clean the post, put it back on, and then the car would start... until the next time.

I recently cleaned both positive and negative posts and terminals, then put a film of Vaseline on the posts. It's been about two months and the problem seems to be solved. I'll know for sure in a few more months if that was the fix.

 

[Dave Murdoch]

658 Chevy I have been doing the same, cleaning the connection, then the car would start. This is the first time I did nothing but remove the positive cable, wait a few minutes, and reconnect, and it started. So this tells me that it's not a "dirty" connection. The only other variable is that I am using a quick disconnect attachment on the positive battery cable since the car routinely sits for a few weeks at a time. Maybe I should remove this? However, I have had this quick connect fitting on for several years without problems. Dave

 

[Dean]

I don't think waiting a few minutes has anything to do with it and I doubt that it's related to the other "intermittent problem" (although it might be)

I'm betting it is the quick disconnect causing the problem and by just moving it around causes it to "MAKE" contact.

It's very typical for a bad cable connection to act like that. (no power to anything after starter tries to engage)

 

[charbilly2001]

It's very typical for a bad cable connection to act like that. (no power to anything after starter tries to engage)

Or a bad cable. It's amazing how old cables can look good but not work properly due to broken strands within the cable that you cannot see. Miraculously after manipulating the cable you get enough strands touching each other to get a start but then the cycle starts over again. Same thing for loose or corroded grounds. Wiggle them and they work fine a couple times and then dead again.

 

[Dean]

Or a bad cable. It's amazing how old cables can look good but not work properly due to broken strands within the cable that you cannot see. Miraculously after manipulating the cable you get enough strands touching each other to get a start but then the cycle starts over again. Same thing for loose or corroded grounds. Wiggle them and they work fine a couple times and then dead again.

Good point :thumbsup:

 

[pnugene]

Buy new battery cables and remove the quick disconnect. I bet when you cut the insulation from the old positive cable, it'll be green with corrosion on both ends.

I once had a similar problem on a 72 Chevelle and it turned out the self-tapping bolt holding the negative cable to alternator bracket was stripped.
Drilled a bigger hole and installed new bolt & star washer solved it.