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Discussion Starter #1
In building a road race car, with particular interest in the way it would handle, would there be a reason to pick one year of Chevelle over another (using the 64-72 years)?

Assuming that you used similar rebuild methods, such as a PTS setup with sway bars and such, I'd have to think that the body style would be the deciding factor. With it's larger rear area, wouldn't the 68-72's lean more? whereas the box styles of the 64-67 would have a more even weight distribution?

Any thoughts on this?

Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html
Email: [email protected]
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Byfield,

I have a 72 Chevelle that I beefed up the suspension, steering, and tires on it was an exceptional corner carver. It felt a little heavy in the rear at first, but I quickly realized that if the rear does break loose, it is very easy to recover in this car. My biggest problem was getting tires that would actually stick to the road when the weight of this beast transferred from side to side. I bolted on a good set of Dunlop tires and after that, no winding back road was safe...... Something that you have to keep in mind is the fact that Chevelles don't have independent rear suspension. To me, the Chevelle was destined to be the quarter mile killer. Just some thoughts. Good luck.

Johnny

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Good words, Turbo. My 72, even with a suspension build-up and bigger sway bars front and rear, handles great around corners. But, as Turbo said, its set up for the straight and narrow. Good luck with whatever you choose, though, and keep us informed on what you do.
 
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There is a very easy way to handle this. All would make good road racing cars a long ad you do the following.

Call Hendricks Motor sports, order one of their road race chassis and put any chevelle body on it you like. This will work.

The stock chevelle chassis is not designed for road racing. My 67 is a pig in corners, the 71 is just as scarey. Even if you put 2 inch sway bars on it it won't help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input.

I guess I should clarify this a bit: I don't actually intend on racing, but I do like to corner hard and fast, so that was the best comparison I could think of.

Since this wouldn't be as serious as needing a race chassis, I think I could pretty much pick any of the years. I was leaning toward a 66 coupe.

Kurt

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The 68 Chevelle info page. [last updated Nov. 30, 98]
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6873/Chevelle/68_Chevelle_Info.html
Email: [email protected]
A.C.E.S. #1352
 

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Well they are all bricks (64-72) But good looking ones. Money well spent at global west, Hotchkins Ect.. upper a-arms, good alignment and 17" 50 series tires, any 64-72 will stick to the road to excite any road enthusiast. Though not practical for daily driving the lower profile and harder the sidwall tire... the better it will handle.Try and corner with a tall sidewall youll scare yourself!
 

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Byfield;

I'd recommend a 64 or 65 due to being the lightest (as far as I know)!

Then, I'd contact Bill Norrad at Global West and get his recommendations on suspension and brakes.

Run a small block with aluminum heads and move the engine back as far as possible. This may require modifying the firewall.

Give Jeff Smith, at Chevy High Performance magazine, a call and ask him what issues cover his blue 65 Chevelle. Buy them all (as back issues).

Well, I could go on.

Wes.
 

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I remember an article in Chevy High performance where they tweaked a 68 malibu with Hotchkis suspension pieces and a 16 or 17" low profile sticky tire. As I recall the bu was close to skidpad numbers that a late model Z28 or T/A could generate. Also remember the older Chevelle steering is not a"roadrace" ratio. My .02

Jeff A. ACES#841
68 SS396(454)
68 L78 Project
 

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I highly recommend Global West for their suspenions.My 72 handled like a tank changed from understeer to oversteer it goes where you point it this on 60 series tires,no doubt 50's would make it even better...FRED
 

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Me experience is that the single best thing you can do install the 73-77 front spindles and brakes. Stock 64-72 Chevelles have the front roll center below ground level due to the basic design of the front end geometry. (The distance between the ball joints is less than the distance between the a-arm bushings, measured vertically) The 73-77 spindle swap fixes this problem and allows use of lighter springs and anti-roll bars for acceptable ride quality. There's plenty of info on this swap in the tech archives on this site. It's really pretty simple and fixes the basic problem rather that patching it over with huge/killer springs/bars/shocks. This swap with a 1" anti-roll bar and a Z-28 steering box will get your car into SCCA mode without giving it a ride like an empty one-ton truck.

Works for me, YMMV, FWIW, IMO, all that stuff.
 

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Byfield,
The best handling cars are those that have the best weight distribution (50% of total weight in front and 50% total weight in rear is best). If anyone could tell you which year Chevelle had the best weight distribution, then that would be the best handling car around corners. Don't forget, the engine size must be taken into consideration. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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If I'm remembering correct, the chevy packet for 68 that they sent me said 68s had front 49% and rear 51% weight ratio. But again, this is what I "seem" to recall.

-Joe Y.
 
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ive got a 68 malibu with a 307 and would like it to handle a curvy road with ease, are there any specific things i should worry about taking care of?
 
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About weight distribution, I believe the wagons are just about equal.
Not exactly what you'd want to go road racing with, but hey, how many other people can say they can bring the family along for the race?

--
Chris
 
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