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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna start work on the Chevelle soon and I'll need a torque wrench. Going to be doing a lot of suspension work this winter. What range of torque will I see? What range of adjustment will I need the wrench to have? I want to get a real good, never need to buy another, no joke, wrench so I don't want to pay for one just to find out it doesn't go high or low enough. Suggestions?

Tim.

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Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle
Malibu: 350, PG, 3.36 open dif.

"ALL YOUR RICE ARE BELONG TO US!"

http://www.wyatts-torch.com/~dienadel/chevelle/index.html
 

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Tim, a good torque wrench is the micrometer type.

Craftsman is OK & they work well, I think mine was around $75. It's 25 to 200 or 250 ft. lbs.

Look at Snap-On & S-K also, I think they're probably better, but more expensive.

Good luck & have fun, Pete
 

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I agree, look at the Craftsman. However, in saying that, if I were making my living with my tools, I would buy a Snap On. Just my opinion.
 

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I got a nice micrometer style from NAPA.

I have a Craftsman Digitok and it is junk. Everytime I needed it it would not work and cost almost as much to repair as did a new one. The Craftsman torque wrenchs do not carry the lifetime guarantee which I did not know untill I got a bill for calibration, only 1 yr. I think mine was made overseas.
 

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Tim,
If you want an SK micrometer "clicker type" from 25-250 lb,(with the plastic box) we could let one go for 85.00 (shipping included).
We have them in our catalogue for 106.95 and then we take 10% off for internet sales. (96.30).
If you would like one give me a call at the number at the website.

Bob

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69 Z-502
www.mobiletools1.com

[This message has been edited by mobiletools (edited 12-23-2001).]
 

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We had the sears at work junk and only a 30 day warranty. I got mine from Mac tools and no charge to calibrate. Any tork wrench needs to be calibrated periodically.
 

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Agree the Sears Torque wrenches are junk, but what I use.


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racer's '68

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I had a nice one in the Navy, went to 500 ft. pounds. 1 Inch drive. Then we would put a X5 multiplier on it and torque the nuts on the catapult tube, 2 3/8, small stuff.

Had a 6 foot handle that screwed on.

I have a Snap-On clicker and a brand X beam wrench.

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There is nothing like rowing through the gears at 7500. Stick cars are so much fun they should be a controlled substance!
 

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SK has a 1 year warrenty on the torque wrenches. When I have customers ask to have them recalibrated or fixed we send them to a warrenty center in Virginia.
The costs range from 30-55.00 depending what is wrong. If the customers have an older ratchet that needs repair I suggest that they may want to think twice about having it repaired, for the mere fact that a new one would cost a few bucks more and have a 1 yr. warr.
The warrenty startes from the date of purchase, not the date code on the bottom of the ratchet.
SK has a date code at the bottom of the handle. It is like a round plastic coin. This is just the date that it was made.
We have all the records of the torque wrenches that we have sold for the warrenty purpose. Customers (myself included) loose receipts of items all the time. It happened to me with "Factory Fit" wiring co. and I couldn't return the items.
Happy holidays

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I had a 3/8 Craftsman Digi-Tork. which I used for 14 years before it was stolen. Had no trouble with it, but I didn't use it all day every day. It was fine for an amateur. I can't afford the luxury of owning professional tools that get used only once in a while.

Now I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench. I won't be surprised if it turns out to be junk and I won't be surprised if it turns out to be a good tool and great value. My general rule based on limited experience is if it comes from China via HF, and has any moving parts, its likely not to be satisfactory.

My $0.02
 

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If your just doing suspension work, a cheap one would be ok, but when it comes to building a motor I always use my snap on ratchet. For suspension stuff I use my impact gun anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bigrich:
If your just doing suspension work, a cheap one would be ok, but when it comes to building a motor I always use my snap on ratchet. For suspension stuff I use my impact gun anyway.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Suspension will be the immediate use. Who knows what the future holds? I'm young and want a wrench that'll last me.

daveseitz: Does Mac recalibrate anytime for free or was that just an initial calibration?

Tim.

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Proud Owner: '69 Chevelle
Malibu: 350, PG, 3.36 open dif.

"ALL YOUR RICE ARE BELONG TO US!"

http://www.wyatts-torch.com/~dienadel/chevelle/index.html
 

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GET YOURSELF A SNAP-ON RATCHET STYLE.
Most guys when they use them never reset the wrench to 0 after use. This causes problems with the accuracy.ALSO-keep them clean---and don't use them for a breaker bar!!! My largest t- wrench is 4 1/2' tall and hits 1500 lbs.Gives me a good work-out on the old trucks.
 

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snap-on at pawn shops run around $80-$100 for the NICE ones w/case can't beat em.

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