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im about to do my fathers nova which will be primed and blocked 3 times before paint but what primer do you guys recomend that is affordable? sands good? minimal shrinkage?
 

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I like TranStar primer. Builds good, sands easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
not to sound dumb but why so many times wouldnt it be just as straight after three as 7? how many gallons of primer is that going to be?
 

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I kept finding small imperfections that needed to be addressed as well as breaking through the primer and exposing body filler which you can't have. You also will keep finding course grit sanding scratches with will take a few coats to cover. Nothing worse than painting a car then seeing some risidual sanding scratches after the paint cures and shrinks. So far I have used just about a gallon on the Jaguar...but then again, it's a small car and a convertible. I think I used 2 gallons on the Charger
 

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SlickSand - Nuff said. :thumbsup: The guy that does my painting swears by that stuff, Hi-build primer does not hold a candle to this stuff.

LK
 

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1st of all if you're asking these questions you need to first learn how to get your bodywork staight before you shoot high build. This stuff isn't cheap ($200 for a gallon of K36) so limit the amount you block by working your filler staight, skim coat, then use a polyester high build such as featherfill or slick sand for the first blocking (some folks block with 80 to 150 grit). This product is a heck of a lot cheaper than high build. I like to block 1st with 150 grit on the polyester, than shoot high build and block with 240 than shoot again and block with 320. I then shoot epoxy as a seal coat and sand that with a soft block @ 500 grit for single stage and 600 grit for BC/CC. I've had great success with this method and I feel it provides a quality substait while limiting the chance of shrinkage when using high build exclusively. Remember to wait a week after shooting high build before blocking to minimize the shrinkage. I also like to wait a day after blocking the high build to let all solvents escape after the cutting.

Jerry
 

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Why do people insist on sanding sealer prior to paint? Sealer lays down like glass. Aside from a nib or two there is no need. I never sanded it in 25 years in collision, resto or custom paint. And if you can know how to lay and sand filler a bazillion coats of primer or ultra high build is not necessary. Too many times it's used as a crutch. If you don't have a lot of experience then I can see it.
 

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Wow man why in the heck are you using lacquer primer in this day and age(durabuild by evercoat)No wonder you have to block it 7 times,if you used urethane 2k primer you would only have to do it twice.....sorry if I sound like an a**hole but you are wasting your time.One stone chip and you will be able to strip it down with a razor scraper.My vote would be for Upol 2k urethane primer,at 75% solids and under a $100 for primer and hardener you can't go wrong.It is european and only has 2.1 voc,you can use it anywhere.We have been using it at the shop I spray at for over 2 years on hundreds of cars and have had absolutely no issues with it,great product.
 

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SlickSand - Nuff said. :thumbsup: The guy that does my painting swears by that stuff, Hi-build primer does not hold a candle to this stuff.

LK
I am not a big fan of Slick Sand. I think it shrinks too much. If you do use it let it sit out in the sun for 2 months too completely shrink.
 

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I am not a big fan of Slick Sand. I think it shrinks too much. If you do use it let it sit out in the sun for 2 months too completely shrink.
Slicksand doesn't shrink.?.? Maybe Eric will shed some light on this as I am repeating what I have read and heard. I have used it and it is some awesome stuff when it comes to getting a panel straight.
 

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I use SlickSand on every car I do, and it is pretty hard to beat! High build, quick sanding, and very inexpensive compared to some of the other primer/surfacers. You can shoot any paint system right over top of it without any sealer or tie-in primer.


Regards, John McGraw
 

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PPG NCP250 sands like butter
 

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I would stick with a high quality primer like Dupont 32430s or PPG K36. From what I have found the primers that are harder to sand stay put better. The easiest to sand is not always the best, but it all really depends on what your working on. They all have their place.
 

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Why do people insist on sanding sealer prior to paint? Sealer lays down like glass. Aside from a nib or two there is no need. I never sanded it in 25 years in collision, resto or custom paint. And if you can know how to lay and sand filler a bazillion coats of primer or ultra high build is not necessary. Too many times it's used as a crutch. If you don't have a lot of experience then I can see it.
2 reasons, I don't have a booth, only a partition that I use only for spraying which has a 750 cfm exhaust fan that eliminates the fog but doesn't "wash" the car with laminar flow. By having the option of sanding the sealer, I can do all bodywork including the sealer in a not so sterile setting.
2nd reason is I shoot only my topcoats from the Iwata and the sealer (epoxy) I shoot from a harbor freight purple gun that I'm not as concerned with. I start fresh with a perfect substrait when the base is shot ending with a flatter finish lessening the cut and buff time.

Jerry
 

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As others have touched upon above... Buy a quality product!!!! If you are concerned about how cheap the material is I will assume you are on a budget. That is when you prep comes into play. If you prep your filler work properly you should be able to prime it 3 times, or even less if you are awesome. It is all about taking your time and attention to detail. If you want to put 7-8 coats of primer on the car I suppose you can rush through your bodywork and use primer as a crutch. I personally hate sucking primer dust, and filler dust. Just take your time and buy a quality product. I like PPG, and RM (Diamont). Check your local painters supply for what line they carry and go through them. They will be able to answer alot of your questions too. I know it is easy to use some of the old school products like others are still doing, but if you are planning on the job to last think about updating to the newer products & use the same line throughout. Just my two cents...
 

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I like the HOK KP2CF. One kit is about $270 but it makes 2 gallons sprayable. It is actually an epoxy that is meant to be used as a surfacer and is fairly easy to sand(not K36 easy but not bad). You do have to wait about 3-4 days after spraying before it is ready to sand. The shrinkage is very minimal if any and it builds great. To save some money and time you could start with slicksand and use the HOK as your final primer.
 
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