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Discussion Starter #1
I’m trying to check my driveline angles and am having trouble finding a flat spot on the 10 bolt housing.
The engine was easy to measure, the drive shaft was easy to measure and the rearend has been a b-atch. I can’t find a large enough flat spot to site my angle finder (manual) or cell phone (Tremac app).
What do you guy do?
 

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Is the rear cover flange perpendicular to the pinion?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I looks to me that the rear flange would perpendicular to the input but there is zero space exposed around the cover.
I just put the drive shaft back in to measure it’s angle. It’s a pain to get out-in because it has cv or guibli joint on the front.
I was hoping for an easier way...
 

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I actually cut a piece of round dowel and bolted it in place of the u joint.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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A short socket as close to the size of the U joint cap & go off of that. Have the joint vertical.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
The Tremec app that I want to use requires you to measure in order:
1.) The angle of the engine
2,) The angle of the driveshaft
3.) The pinion angle
The app won’t stay open long enough for me to measure 1and 2 and then remove my weird driveshaft to get at the pinion.
I guess I’ll go back to my magnetic angle gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A short socket as close to the size of the U joint cap & go off of that. Have the joint vertical.

Interesting..I’ll try this in the AM.
 

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A short socket as close to the size of the U joint cap & go off of that. Have the joint vertical.

Interesting..I’ll try this in the AM.
I'm thinking the clip that holds the cap in could affect the angle and need to be temporarily removed.
 

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The Tremec app that I want to use requires you to measure in order:
1.) The angle of the engine
2,) The angle of the driveshaft
3.) The pinion angle
The app won’t stay open long enough for me to measure 1and 2 and then remove my weird driveshaft to get at the pinion.
I guess I’ll go back to my magnetic angle gauge.
I have an android and found that app to be inaccurate. There was no real way to get a good reading with buttons down the side of the phone. If you rotated the phone one way or another the reading would be off, never got a good consistent reading.

As others have said, undo the rear straps @ the diff, keep shaft in place until you get to the rear, pop it out, and measure @ the flat of the yoke, only way you'll get a good reading.

I gave up on the tremec app and picked up a digital gauge like this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Calculated-Industries-AccuMASTER-2-in-1-Digital-Angle-Gauge-7434/207089743

It's small enough to get measurements from most of the places under the car and has a magnet built in so you don't have to hold it in place like the phone.

If you wanted, keep the tremec app, get the angles from the digital gauge, then mock them into the app to get your reading. :thumbsup:
 

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If you're measuring the pinion,you'd have no clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Today I bought a digital gauge and here is what I found:
Engine is at 2.3 degrees down in the back.
The driveshaft is virtually level at 0.1 degrees down in the back.
The rearend measured from a flat on the ujoint is 0.6 degrees yoke up.
I’m thinking I need to adjust the pinion up a little more, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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I’m not sure the angle of the driveshaft to the ground matters at all. As long as the front drive yoke and the rear driven yoke are between 1 and 3 degrees and opposite one another.
It might be semantics, but the u joint operating angles are what is important. The only way to adjust those angles is by adjusting the engine/ transmission and pinion angles.

My reference to the driveshaft being raised when raising the pinion was that it will effect the operating angle of the u joint. Again keeping in mind an ideal u joint operating angle of between 1 and 3 degrees.

The engine/transmission and the pinion should be at the same angle and parallel. Both should angle down from front to back.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk
 

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This is the method I used t check my angles: https://www.drivelinesnw.com/part-trouble-shooting/vibration-analysis/angle-analysis/measuring-and-correcting-angle-problems/

It made the most sense to me and is pretty much spot on with what Troy is conveying.

My engine angle is bad, but I was able to get the operating angles to work amazingly. My rear upper adjustable arms are bottomed out. Been up to 125mph with no vibration. Due to my angles being so bad I do check and lube my u-joints every oil change.
 

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I’m not sure the angle of the driveshaft to the ground matters at all. As long as the front drive yoke and the rear driven yoke are between 1 and 3 degrees and opposite one another.
To calculate the working (operating) angle of each u-joint you absolutely do need to know the angle of the driveshaft relative to the transmission and pinion.
 

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I would try to get max working angle of 2.5 degrees or less. I've seen 3 degrees cause a vibration. Not in every case but its boardline.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
To calculate the working (operating) angle of each u-joint you absolutely do need to know the angle of the driveshaft relative to the transmission and pinion.
Agreed. I mistakenly thought it was stated that the driveshafts relationship to the ground matters and it doesn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I would try to get max working angle of 2.5 degrees or less. I've seen 3 degrees cause a vibration. Not in every case but its boardline.
I have the measurements of the drive yoke, the driveshaft and the driven yoke and the Dana Spicer program says I have operating angles of 2.2 and 0.7 degrees.
So I’m going to raise my pinion slightly (by lengthening the upper control arms) to try to close this gap to within 1 degree.

But just so you don’t think I’m still not confused (because I am), most of you state that it needs to be “X” degrees. 1 number.
Am I to subtract one of the numbers from the other to get the one number you guys use?
 
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