[Les Saville]

GU has a Hurst comp plus shifter to replace the Muncie M22 factory shifter for my 70. The arms they furnish have the rectangular "key" hole for mounting to the shifter plate, my M22 doesn't have the "keys", where do I find the correct shifter arms that just utilize a bolt?

 

[Bill Rose]

If I'm understanding your question, Hurst makes both types of shifter arms Les. I have the bolt on type on the Chevelle. I got them from Jegs or Summit.

 

[Les Saville]

If I'm understanding your question, Hurst makes both types of shifter arms Les. I have the bolt on type on the Chevelle. I got them from Jegs or Summit.

Thanks Bill, I never thought about Jegs or Summit, I'm to used to buying from repro companies.

 

[Dave Birdwell]

Les, I just put a GU Hurst in a car with bolt on arms... the ones supplied with the kit went right on... The ones in my kit, the arm had a rectangular slot, with a 3/8 hole in the center.

 

[LevonH]

Les I got mine from a speed shop. Make sure you get the correct reverse lever as well because you need the extra hole for the back drive linkage.

 

[Les Saville]

Les, I just put a GU Hurst in a car with bolt on arms... the ones supplied with the kit went right on... The ones in my kit, the arm had a rectangular slot, with a 3/8 hole in the center.

Great info Dave, I was going to call GU but wasn't prepared to trust their response on this. I am curious though, if there is no key for the arm and only a bolt securing it to the fork, what keeps it from slipping and loosing it's correct position? The adjustment rods maybe? Thanks

 

[Bill Rose]

There's 2 types of arms. The older ones with the studs, and the newer ones that are bolted on. They both have rectangular slots, so they can't slip. The newer ones you need also have a round hole in the middle of the rectangular cut out, to make room for the bolt.

 

[1badss396]

Great info Dave, I was going to call GU but wasn't prepared to trust their response on this. I am curious though, if there is no key for the arm and only a bolt securing it to the fork, what keeps it from slipping and loosing it's correct position? The adjustment rods maybe? Thanks

Les there is the spline teeth in the end of the shifter where it bolts together with 2 bolts.

 

[Ark68SS]

Two styles of shifter shafts, early style was studded, later style drilled and tapped. Both have the rectangular tab that the rectangular hole in the shifter arm locates into.
Late style-

Early style-

BillL

 

[Dave Birdwell]

Good pics, Bill. The main difference, the later shift shafts with the bolt have a hole in the arm, just like the GU shifter arms do, whereas the early shafts with the stud, the stud is ground flat on the sides, so there is no hole in the center of the arms. Either one can be made to work, just takes some grinding.

Basically, if you have the correct '70 sidecover and shafts that take the bolts, the GU shifter kit is a bolt on deal. :thumbsup:

 

[Les Saville]

I'll explain whats going on here.

My car had a gate shifter installed that created a large cut out in the hump but actually left half of the factory shifter hump.
I am going to weld a repro sheet metal hump back in it, I left the M22 bolted in so I can install the GU Hurst Comp. Plus and get everything aligned correctly before welding so the console and shifter don't have issues when permanently installed.

When I reach/feel through the giant hole in the floor down to the side plate on the M22 I feel no "key" for the shifter arms but can feel stuff inside that feels like an internal inverted "key". This is why my post, as I want to make sure I can even get the arms I need before I order the GU shifter.

BillL the picture you posted shows a "key" but I don't feel any on my transmission except where the reverse arm attaches. Thoughts?

 

[ls6ragtop]

Les,
The reason you cannot feel the raised rectangular slot on your sidecover arms is probably because the shifter arms have recessed into the sidecover. Take a 3/8 X 16 bolt and thread it into the hole in the center of the slot and pull it out past flush with the sidecover. Sidecover arms can slide into the sidecover till they are flush. The reverse arm uses a tapered pin to locate it into the tailhousing which is why you can see it. If you do this step you should see what everybody is talking about.
When the external lever arms are bolted up to the shifter arm shafts, that will locate them. GM made the clearance so the shafts won't load against the sidecover when in use.
Hope this helps, Chris

 

[Les Saville]

Thanks everyone, I feel like an idiot after reading Chris' post as the shifting arms probably slid into the cover and that's why I felt something inverted in there. I'll find out tomorrow. :clonk: