[CRUSHBOX]

Am going back together with my car that has been apart for years. When I was driving it , I remember the thing I HATED WORST was when I wanted to "burn out" from a dead stop the rear end would bounce very badly, What can I do to eliminate this and retain as much origonality as possible. Obvious modifications such as ladder bars are not an option. THANKS!!!

 

[mr 4 speed]

I would opt for seat of Southside Machine Bars...Jegs and Lakewood sell their versions as well.
They replace your lower control arms and the factory rear sway bar hooks up to them as well.
I've used them both on automatic and 4 speed cars and was very happy with the increased traction,better handling and eliminating wheel hop.

 

[Derek69SS]

SSM lift bars (now made by JEGS) work very well, and aren't very noticeable.

If you want to stick to stock looking stuff, get F41 boxed lowers & sway-bar. Keep the car stock height, or slightly lower (lower arms should be parallel to ground). Poly bushings could be used in the lowers, but only use rubber in the uppers.

 

[SS4speed]

Or, if you already have boxed arms, you could just make four metal plates, to drop your arms a few inches like the SSM bars do. I saw a posting for a 10 bolt that did exactly this. It eliminated the wheel hop, so that article stated. You would have to make sure that your pinion angle was correct.
Does anyone know why this setup would not work, or why it would be a bad idea?

Thanks,
Fred.

 

[zrwhat]

I'm using and like Edelbrocks "No-Hop" bars and what I like about them is you can't see them unless the car in up on the rack, from ground level they are not visable.

They do the same thing as the SSM lowers, they give the rear suspension some leverage to keep the housing from trying to twist itself out from under the car when applying heavy sudden launch loads with the loud pedal.

Gibby

 

[CRUSHBOX]

I should have asked this at first, what is exactly the cause of the hop? is it bad pinion angle? I thought it was because it has coil springs in the rear.

 

[Bomber '67]

In an old Chevelle the most common cause of wheel hop is simply that the rear control arm bushings are old and rotten. Crappy shocks can be a contributing factor. Having reinforced lower control arms is a good idea, along with the add on bar to connect the upper and lower rear control arm mounting points to strengthen that part of the frame. Past that it often comes down to geometry and pinion angle. The guys who have jacked up the back end of their Chevelles to clear big tires have screwed up the geometry. If your bushings are new and good, then the least expensive way to eliminate wheel hop is to shorten your rear coil springs ~2"+/-. Lowering the rear changes the launch geometry, which can also be done with the different SSM and other no hop bars.

Wheel hop can occur on either a coil spring or a leaf spring setup.

Here is a website with a lot of info on rear suspension setup:
http://www.geocities.com/kdslaby/Tech_Page_Glossary.html

Thomas