[hurstL78]

I recently installed a new set of rear springs in my 68, it was a sled with the 40 year old originals. I wanted to get the original stance back so I put aftermarket replacements in it(Moog). Got my factory stance back, but today I tried doing my first burnout since the install and the car wheelhopped so bad I couldn't even spin the tires. The car has all original suspension, trailing arms and bushings, I guess my question is, what can I do to eliminate wheelhop, keep the same stance, and not install aftermarket control arms.thanks
Van

 

[Derek69SS]

well... if it didn't hop before, it's probably because it sat lower with the old springs. Lifting it up, even a little, moves the IC a considerable amount because of the short upper arms.

New bushings will help, but likely won't completely eliminate it. Your best bet would be lower arm relocation brackets (and replace bushings while you have it apart anyway) from UMI Performance. They have both bolt-on and weld-on style brackets.

 

[hurstL78]

well... if it didn't hop before, it's probably because it sat lower with the old springs. Lifting it up, even a little, moves the IC a considerable amount because of the short upper arms.

New bushings will help, but likely won't completely eliminate it. Your best bet would be lower arm relocation brackets (and replace bushings while you have it apart anyway) from UMI Performance. They have both bolt-on and weld-on style brackets.

I was afraid I would have this problem when I raised up the rear. Someone told me that I could install urethane bushings and it would remedy my problem. just wandering.
Van

 

[Derek69SS]

They MIGHT minimize the hop, but they cause other problems. They create a lot of bind, especially in the uppers, so the suspension can't move properly.

The best way is to correct the IC.

 

[hurstL78]

They MIGHT minimize the hop, but they cause other problems. They create a lot of bind, especially in the uppers, so the suspension can't move properly.

The best way is to correct the IC.

I just took a look at those brackets, my car is original and I would like to keep it that way if possibile. Are these brackets very noticeable?
Van

 

[TronDD]

You can notice them if you look. The control arm is mounted lower. If a person didn't know what stock looked like, they wouldn't be able to tell. Get the bolt on ones, then you can take them off if you want to show the car, put them on if you want to race.

Or...the wheel hop is original equipment, too. If you want to stay all original all the time, just like replicating factory mistakes like paint overspray, you get a factory wheel hop prone rear suspension.

Tim.

 

[UMI Performance]

Your best bet would be lower arm relocation brackets (and replace bushings while you have it apart anyway) from UMI Performance. They have both bolt-on and weld-on style brackets.

Thanks Derek

And I agree, these bracket set-ups can make a world of a difference. I posted links below with more information and pictures if desired. If you have any questions please ask.

www.umiperformance.com/4010

www.umiperformance.com/4012

Thank you!
Ryan

 

[hurstL78]

thanks everyone for all your input.
Van

 

[GMPETE]

TA performance has "no hops" for Buicks (A body)---they work like a
charm on my 4spd BBB!!! They fit Chevelles Pete

 

[davis95]

TA performance has "no hops" for Buicks (A body)---they work like a
charm on my 4spd BBB!!! They fit Chevelles Pete

My advice also for a stock suspension.:thumbsup: