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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I'm new to the forum. I have a 1969 Malibu with power drums all around. I tried to replace the front wheel cylinders and reuse the original hard lines. After swapping wheel cylinders the hard lines leaked at the wheel cylinder. I bent and flared a new set of lines and they also leaked at the wheel cylinder. I tried making a couple of different sets of lines in case it was my flare technique that was causing the leak, but I couldn't get the leak to go away. I even got another set of brand new wheel cylinders but the leak persisted. My flares only leak at the wheel cylinders and don't leak at any other location so I feel like my technique is probably okay.

I am using Dorman brand wheel cylinders from Rock Auto. Has anyone had experience with these particular brand wheel cylinders leaking? Is there a wheel cylinder brand that forum members have used successfully?

Thanks for the help!

Mark
 

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Sometimes you have to seat and unseat the lines a couple of times to get the flare and the seat in the wheel cylinder to match, try it!
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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as in seat real hard, loosen and seat real hard again. use a line wrench to prevent unwanted accidents.

NAPA used to have in their TEMP line dead soft conical washers that could be used to seal PITA steel lines. Don't really recall if they were available in brakes line sizes. Worth checking.
 
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if it still leaks after seating the fitting and backing it off a few times like suggested you may have a cracked flair.make sure youre leaving yourself enough material for the double flair and you arent making them to thin
 

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I worked on the brakes for a 1966 gto for a friend 2 years ago. Never could get the new China replacement cylinders to seal. One of the warrantied replacement wheel cylinders actually crumbled as the tube nut went in (nope, NOT crossthreaded). I finally pulled some cylinders off a 1967 chevelle parts car I have and rebuilt those. No more leaks...
 

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Make sure your not using Teflon tape on the threads. Jim
 

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on my 69 the right front wheel cylinder is different than the dorman replacement cylinder ! its where the line threads into the cylinder , the meat on the cylinder is shaved off too much which caused the fitting to thread in at a slight angle ! oreilly autozone and opgi all sale the same pos dorman cylinder ! was better to rebuild the old one in my case !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All, thanks for the help so far.

I am using line wrenches and have been tightening and loosening the lines to try to get the flares to seat on the wheel cylinder side. The lines aren't split and I am not using teflon tape. I was looking today for the conical flare saver washers and think I might try these next.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Flare-Gasket-5WRW3


Otherwise I'm leaning towards the machining of the wheel cylinder part of the connection as the problem. It sounds like others have had similar issues with them. Unfortunately I have already thrown away my original wheel cylinders so I can't rebuild them. Does anyone have a brand they have used that has worked? I don't want converting to disc brakes to end up being my solution.

Mark
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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wow, looks like Grainger is having a serious web issue. that's a valid grainger URL, but it actually goes to something called pepperjamnetwork.com. I wouldn't click on it any time soon.

Turns out it's some kind of flaky affiliate marketing network. No idea how grainger urls are redirecting to it.
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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you might also try NAPA, they still usually have decent parts if you avoid the economy line.
 

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I've used NAPA brake parts exclusively, use the top quality parts, esp on brakes!!
 

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X3 (or maybe X4, I can't count) on sealing and re-sealing the lines. I do this in a bench vise. Where you can put a box end wrench on the fitting and really crank on it 3-4 times. Not saying you have to use the wheel cylinder for this, a brass coupling will do. But using the cylinder won't hurt.

If you have wrenched on it for a while, checking for cracks is a good idea. Because you've tried a couple of sets of lines, this is likely not a cause. But, check it anyway.

Finally, I hate to say it, but with the poor quality of steel lines and fittings, we might be getting to the point where you need a McMastercool flare tool. (No relationship). It does a good job of centering, falling, and making a very nice fitting. With about as much effort o less and as a sore type flare. Downside is price to buy won.
 
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