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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so it looks like I am going to put an order in for some stickier tires and wheels to accomodate. I was hoping I could get some input as to what size you fellows think I should get, and also which tire in particular. I want to runa drag radial, purely so i can stay in street classes. I am going to order wheels as well, so my regular BFG radial t/a's will remain my street tires. I only live less than 3 miles from the track, so if I choose to drive to the track with the drag radials on, its no big deal.

So, based on the following info, what size and brand tire would you guys run in a stock wheel welled 69 chevelle?

505 cid Mark Jones engine, 686 horsepower 663 ft lbs of torque
TKO 600
3.73 12 bolt

Thanks guys for the help, I would like to have this ordered up by tomorrow night so they get here quickly

jeff
 

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For the tire i'd run a 295/60-15 Mickey Thompson Et drag radial on a 10 inch rim, but style is up to you, I don't know what your style or budget is. there is alot of nice wheels out there, sometimes it can be really hard to choose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As for the rim, I think I am just going to order wheel vintiques corvette rallies. I dont have a full set yet, but will by next year have the car switched to rallie wheels, so I thought I may as well just order a 15 x 10 with 5.5 inch back spacing from them.

So a 295/60 will fit well in the wheel wells? And you suggest M/T ET Drags, any particular reason? Better traction or anything?

Thanks

Jeff
 

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295 should fit with no problem, may have to tap with a hammer a tiny bit on the inner wheel well...
I've been into the 8's on a 275 radial, and I know many cars have been into the 7's on a 275, 7.33 is fastest i've ever heard. with that said, I do realize your dealing with a stock suspension chevelle, but that tire will handle the power your talking and give you alot of stability over a bias ply tire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool thanks a lot.

As for my suspension, its stock geometery, but not stock pieces by any means. The car has moroso trick springs, solid lower arms, edelbrock adjustable uppers, and umi control arm relocating brackets. Hopefully I can get it set up to hook at least a little bit. I actually want some slip at first, until I see how the car is going to react to this new engine and trans.

Jeff
 

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But Rick, do you think that the drag radial might be too hard to hook with the stick?
 

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I would also use Mickey Thompson "Street radials" like Rick suggested if you wanted them as a true dual purpose tire. But if you're going to have another set of wheels and tires for street use anyway, (as you've indicated) then Hoosier drag radials would be much better for the track. They will hook better and more consistently than the M/T's will. Especially in less than ideal track conditions. Just ask Bob West how he likes the Hoosiers. He accomplishes consistent 1.3 second 60' times with 9" wide Hoosier drag radials with his car. As do others. I'm not saying that the tires are the only reason that Bob's car hooks the way it does, but they sure aren't holding it back.

BTW, as far as P295 tires fitting, that's provided that you have had the fender lips rolled back and have a 5.5" backspacing on the wheels with a 10" width.
 

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If you run the TKO put bias slicks on. Don't waste your money on drag radials with a stick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you run the TKO put bias slicks on. Don't waste your money on drag radials with a stick.
Would a Hoosier Quick Time Pro fall in to that class? That is what I decided to go with. I want to stay with a DOT tire to run in the streeet class, so straight slicks are out.

Jeff
 

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Would a Hoosier Quick Time Pro fall in to that class? That is what I decided to go with. I want to stay with a DOT tire to run in the streeet class, so straight slicks are out.

Jeff
Good luck if you figure out how to hook with DR alot of us Stik guys would like to know ....... running those relocation brackets will make it hit even harder
 

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Would a Hoosier Quick Time Pro fall in to that class? That is what I decided to go with. I want to stay with a DOT tire to run in the streeet class, so straight slicks are out.

Jeff
Yes the Quick time pro is a bias type tire. Basically a slick with a couple lines in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes the Quick time pro is a bias type tire. Basically a slick with a couple lines in it.
Thanks Brian, my family owns Genal Tire out in Greenville, so I can get any hoosier I want at a pretty good price.

Now before I have them bring the tires in for me, does anybody know if a 28x13.5x15 will fit in a 69 with a 15x10 rim with 5.5 inch backspacing? Seems to me it would, probably prety tight, but the section width is 12.7 which should work

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good luck if you figure out how to hook with DR alot of us Stik guys would like to know ....... running those relocation brackets will make it hit even harder
I am sticking with the Hoosier quick time pros which i dont think quite qualify as a drag radial, maybe I am wrong on that though.

I'll be happy if I can figure out how to launch this car at all, much less get it to hook

Jeff
 

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I am sticking with the Hoosier quick time pros which i dont think quite qualify as a drag radial, maybe I am wrong on that though.

I'll be happy if I can figure out how to launch this car at all, much less get it to hook

Jeff
No those are not DR so you should be OK the stiffer the sidewall the better
 

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I run the Hoorier DOT slicks. 28x11.5x10. Not as wide as the ones you will be running. It will be tight. My car has had the rear quarters replaced and so the lip sticks inward further than stock. You will probably have to roll or trim the lip. Also, ride height will make a difference too. Up on on the inside of the fenderwell, it sticks out.

I have had a heck of time getting these tires to work, on a marginally prepped track, though.

My motor made 540 tq at 4100. I usually launch at 4K (should be launching about 5K), simply to get more consistent and hook up at least a little. I think it will be tough going. I race at a high DA, so actual power is quite a bit less than that.

Something that helped me too, is I don't side step the clutch. I just pop it and then rather than totally mashing the throttle I roll into the throttle. I can get consistent 1.74 60' with a combo that hasn't been tweaked/dialed in at all yet. Just getting used to it.

Good choice not going with a drag radial. Been there, done that. Doesn't work. You are compromising, but if you want a DOT tire, the one you've chosen is probably a good choice. I have never used the MT street slick, so don't know how those work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I run the Hoorier DOT slicks. 28x11.5x10. Not as wide as the ones you will be running. It will be tight. My car has had the rear quarters replaced and so the lip sticks inward further than stock. You will probably have to roll or trim the lip. Also, ride height will make a difference too. Up on on the inside of the fenderwell, it sticks out.

I have had a heck of time getting these tires to work, on a marginally prepped track, though.

My motor made 540 tq at 4100. I usually launch at 4K (should be launching about 5K), simply to get more consistent and hook up at least a little. I think it will be tough going. I race at a high DA, so actual power is quite a bit less than that.

Something that helped me too, is I don't side step the clutch. I just pop it and then rather than totally mashing the throttle I roll into the throttle. I can get consistent 1.74 60' with a combo that hasn't been tweaked/dialed in at all yet. Just getting used to it.

Good choice not going with a drag radial. Been there, done that. Doesn't work. You are compromising, but if you want a DOT tire, the one you've chosen is probably a good choice. I have never used the MT street slick, so don't know how those work.
From what I have found, a 28x11.5x15 is the equivalant of a 275-60-15, which is what my car wears on the street. Right now I have plenty of room with those on, so I am hoping to make the 28x13.5x15 fit.

I sure hope they do, trying to race on my BFG's will be no fun at all if they end up not fitting.

Jeff
 

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The section width on the 28x11.5x10 is something like 11.4 or so, so they are fairly narrow compared to a regular slick, like a MT which has something like a section of 12.5 or something.
 

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Be careful. A 275/60-15 is 10.8" (275mm) wide. A 295/60-15 is 11.6" (295mm) wide. From what I have read here, a 295 is about the widest one can go on a 68-72 chevelle with probably rolling back the wheel openings a little. The 295 also needs to be on 10 inch rims with the proper backspacing.
 

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Jeff[/QUOTE]

Be careful. A 275/60-15 is 10.8" (275mm) wide. A 295/60-15 is 11.6" (295mm) wide. From what I have read here, a 295 is about the widest one can go on a 68-72 chevelle with probably rolling back the wheel openings a little. The 295 also needs to be on 10 inch rims with the proper backspacing.
That's what I've seen too. I know the 13.5 wouldn't fit on my 69.

Also, you have to have a little wiggle room, since the body of the car will be moving around some going down the track. Ride height will make a difference, too.
 

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Be careful. A 275/60-15 is 10.8" (275mm) wide. A 295/60-15 is 11.6" (295mm) wide. From what I have read here, a 295 is about the widest one can go on a 68-72 chevelle with probably rolling back the wheel openings a little. The 295 also needs to be on 10 inch rims with the proper backspacing.
For the most part, I agree. Here's a footnote though.... I have drag radials on my 70. They're P315/60/15 and I have a factory stock ride height. But they just barely fit, and rolling back the fender lips was NOT enough to fit them in there either. I had to go to more extreme measures.

I didn't flare the fenders, nor did I raise the ride height (I would never do that to a Chevelle :noway:). But I DID use an air powered cut-off tool to cut the entire fender lip off. And ofcourse I also have the tires mounted on 10" wide wheels that have a 5.5" backspacing. I confess that I have not driven the car yet, but it looks like the the rear suspension will have to compress more than 2.5" before the sidewalls of the radial tires make any contact at all anywhere. So yes, they're very close.

But I have a solid 1 3/8" diameter bolt-on anti-roll bar in the rear of the car (from BMR Fabrication) and brand new big block factory coil springs in the rear too.So the car won't be exhibiting any roll rotation. And according to my measurements, there isn't anymore than 2.5" of vertical distance between the top of the aftermarket Dana 60 rear end housing that I've installed in the car, and the factory rubber bumper that hangs above it which is threaded into the rear frame crossmember. Furthermore, the rear suspension geometry that I have has shorterned the instant center a bit, so the car shouldn't squat during hard acceleration. So I should be ok. But like I said, with the radial P315 tires, it's very close.
 
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